hm thats interesting i didnt have any issues in the dodge i may end up doing that but other way use the front as the tank and the rear as storage for weight purposes. did you have all the mods when you had that issue with the secound gen motor? as far as low boost

 

When I swapped in the 2nd gen motor, I did the rack plug, 4k GSK, 16.5* timing, and 5x.012 injectors all at once. The motor would start and idle with the stock mechanical piston lift pump, but the minute you started giving it some throttle it would die...like it was starving for fuel. I spliced in a Carter electric fuel pump, still using the stock IDI fuel lines up to the pump, and that helped it a little, but it was still starving. I never did change the overflow valve, so that may also have had something to do with it. The AirDog 150 and 1/2" line solved everything though....and I still haven't changed the overflow valve.

Another thing to maybe check is the tank selector valve. I've heard of them wearing out the internals and cross contaminating fuel or pulling air in by trying to suck both tanks at once. I took my valve out when I did the 1/2" line to the rear tank, so I never considered it a factor afterwords... Just food for thought.

 

ok when i get back from my trip i will have to do some investigating im wondering if i could just stick a line into a fuel can to see if thats the issue im leaning away from the pump and more for the lines since guys run 600hp on stock pump

 

ok guys i just finished the fuel line i did a 1/2 in draw straw from the front tank and 1/2" fuel line to the lift pump and a 1/2 in vulcan big line kit wich is all the 1/2 in fittings and 1/2" line fo for between the lift pump to the fuel filter hauseing and from between the fuel filter housing to the p7100. i took it for a test drive and i seem to still have the same issue im gunna test drive it again today once i get the bed back on any thoughts as to my problem?

 

dumb question but did you re-clock the compressor housing on the turbo when you put it in, it could be binding the wheel?

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just some input on the fuel line size issue, im running the oem ford fuel system including the in tank sending unit, i just removed the pump, and replaces it with a section of pipe, still have the gas strainer, and factory size fuel lines all the way up to where the tank selector valve was, and i flow plenty of fuel.

 

its not turbo bind its spins freely if it bound it would hardly spin period i drove it yesterday and i max at 30lbs getting after it hard up a hll

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it seems it doesnt have the lower end boost it used to

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basically everythin i did between the ford and dodge its back to the way basically the dodge had. removed the industrial exhaust manifold went back to a polished stock manifold. 1/2 fuel lines all the way from the tank to the ppump, all the oil lines are basically back to stock like in the dodge it just doesnt seem to have the low end boost it did

 

bump any thoughts?

 

seemed to get her figured out injectors were shot so i threw in a set of SDX 5x.012, put a .010 head gasket on, new valve guides, seat sand seals and the boost gauge was shot. new 1/2" draw straw and full 1/2" fuel lines from tank to pump to fuel filter and to p7100

 

Do you have a guage telling you the fuel pressure at the injector pump inlet? If you can see it while driving & experiencing the problem, that should tell you if it's a fuel restriction. If you don't have a guage, try to get a filter restriction guage from a big rig shop such as Peterbilt or Freightliner.

 

The factory gas fuel strainer was a problem on mine, truck wouldnt even run when temp dropped below 35* or so, I think the fuel was too thick to flow through it. And even when warm, after I pulled the plate, if i went WOT, I would cloud out the highway behind me white smoke because of lack of fuel. Yours may not be a problem, I would just keep an eye on it.

94cummins12v, doing better now?