do what cummins150 said wire in a heavy duty push button,BTW the cigarette lighter in the ashtray is a good location for push button. remove the lighter and install switch,perfect anti-theft or anti-whoever device.LOL!:w2::yeah:

alright:c: so now you know the starter, works and the engine runs. leave the engine alone now, i want to find out if your trucks electrical system works correctly after all the dicking around under there. ive got a feeling that ford starter relay is fried. you dont have to use it if you are going to use a push button starter switch with your dodge starter. for right now lets just use it as a place to bolt all your fusible links that power your truck.Attachment 40831
this is the next step i want you to cover, i have 3 things on here that we need to accomplish.
1: i want you to put the fuseable links back on the starter relay, and on the same stud run a power wire to the battery, dont use the other side of it, or either of the two small ones, we are just using it as an insulated stud to attatch the f-links and battery cable. you still have your main battery cable going to the starters large post, and you ground the battery to the engine. once we do that i want you to turn the key on, check everything, lights horn wipers blinkers every thing that worked before check it now.
2: we need to comeup with how you want to "start" the truck, do you want to figure out whats wrong with it so you can start it with the key? or do you want to just use a pushbutton switch? the wire numberd 2 in my diagram will connect to what ever you want to use.
3: do you still have the wire that is powered when the key is on, that used to be the power to the ignition coil on your 460? that is the wire i want you to use to power your injector pump fuel soleniod.

1. Lights, blinkers, wipers, radio, brake lights are all good.

2. Assuming my ford relay is fried, I could try a new one and see if that fixes it, but if not, let's go with a push button switch. I already got one laying here in my garage.

3.Yes I do! It is still hooked up the injector pump.

alright, run a 10ga wire with an inline fuse from your battery to where ever you mount your starter switch and then to the small stud on the starter. pushing that will crank your engine. So to start your truck you will turn the key on and push the starter button, keep in mind that your truck will start in gear and weather or not the clutch is pushed in, so get in a habit of keeping the truck in neutral, and pushing the clutch in so you dont run over someone. you can always go back and fix the fender relay later.

once you have that done, find the wires for your temp and oil gauges they will be single wire connectors with the same 90degree rubber push on boots like the I terminal on the fender relay did, they will be near where ever your old sending units were on your v8 wiring harness. what we are going to do is take your ford oil and temp sending units out of the 460 and adapt them to the cummins with brass pipe bushings. dont get confused with the 2 wire temp sending unit for your old ecm harness, the way you will test this is: turn your key on, take your test light ground it with the clamp, then go look at your gauges, look at where they are, then go back under the hood, put the lead of the test light into your suspected wire, if it lights up go back and see if a gauge moved, if one moves then you have found the wire for that gauge, it works because the bulb in the test light creates resistance to ground, simulating a sending unit, but it will also protect that circuit from shorting out in case you found the wrong hot wire and tried to ground it. the sending units work by modifying a ground with more or less resistance to the engine block with changing pressure or temp.

Alright, I've been busy putting the front back together. I added a push button start. Turn the key, push the button, Cummins fires right up. Turn the key off, engine shuts off. I decided to use the radiator from the 92 Dodge and the intercooler as well, both hooked up nicely.
List to do:
water temp. sensor
alternator,
downpipe/exhuast
transfer case and get a driveshaft made.
Attachment 40815
Attachment 40816
Attachment 40817
Attachment 40818
Attachment 40819

Getting close for the first test drive :jump:

HELL YES,MAN. LOOKIN' GOOD.:rocking::tu:

Welcome to the Fummins world, you really cant describe the first test drive in words :c:

now go buy an external voltage regulator for a 91 dodge d250 so we can get around the ecm non-sense, your going to hear/read a bunch of confusing hullabaloo about using a ford regulator with 15 wires on it, or " you have to use the ridiculos dodge vacum tube ecm thats rattling around in the fender well" dont listen to it, its not that hard.:scare2:

X2 :tu:

hell yeah and you cant describe the look on peoples faces who recognize the sound of that engine when you roll up next to them.:rocking::rocking: