No! All you need is 12 volt to your pump and 12volt to starter and it will run. I just sold a 12v this winter and i started it sitting on the ground with a pair of jumper cables and a funnel of fuel to the pump. Very simple engine. ANd later down the road when you crank up the pump and blow out your fss you wont even need power to the motor once it is running its a beautiful thing cause then you can put in a sweet pull cable to kill your cummings instead of using a key!:jump:

so is it cranking at a normal speed? if it is, verify you have 12+ at your injector pump solenoid, if you do, i suspect air in the fuel system, since you pulled the engine and all.
first thing, what are you using for a fuel source? the firdt thing you do is pull the steel line of the discharge of your lift pump and pump the hand primer until fuel squirts out. then from there, remove the spin on fuel filter, see how much fuel is in it, if its empty, thats a problem. fill it up with fuel, put it back on, then crack open your first 4 fuel line at the injectors, this will bleed the air out of the lines. once fuel starts spraying out, tighten them back up if all is working right it should start up and run rough for a bit and then straighten out. How much experience/understanding do you have with mechanical diesels, im only asking so i dont assume you know something already and then confuse you.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

and by the way somebody tell me my avatar looks just like my truck so i feel like i did a good job

Attachment 40871

Your avatar is awesome, defintely looks like your truck :tu: I made one similar a long time ago that looked like mine but it had my old roll bar and KC Daylighters on it. Bouncing trucks I think?

I have little knowledge about the mechanicals diesels, I have a buddy who's a diesel mechanic for Ryder, I usually learn from him or through my own research. We all gotta start somewhere!

It's not cranking at all. I turn the key and it doesn't do anything. No clicks, no sparks - nothing. I went ahead and replaced my fuel filter w/ Wix and primed the system, though I haven't cracked the injector lines, just the lift pump. I'm guessing something is going on with my Ford solenoid, or the start wire on the solenoid :humm: I'm so close, yet so far.

I was checkin that out thought it was pretty awesome :rocking:

well for now forget the key, just work under the hood, if you put 12 volts to the ford fender relay s terminal with a jumper wire, it should crank, once we get the engine running we can fuck with that.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

i drew that bitch in ms paint!:yeah:

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

and for forgive me because im drunk now, but i want us all to from this point on to refer to it from now on to a starter relay because technically it is a really a relay not a solenoid be:rocking::rocking::rocking::rocking::rocking::ro cking:

I believe I have found the culprit: My "S" wire. With the key on CRANK, my test lights shows nothing. With the clutch pedal in and key on CRANK, my test light still does not light up. From a video I watched it is either:
Ignition Switch (changed in July 2009)
Safety Neutral Switch (Don't have an auto trans)
Clutch switch (I unplugged a wire that went to my 4 speed....:humm:)
Wiring (Wiring is correct)
Not In Park (Don't have an auto trans)
Clutch is not depressed (Tried with and still no crank)

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Also, I tried to switch my starter cable and battery cables around on the poles for the starter relay so it looked like yours, and when I went to put the ground cable on my battery, the starter wanted to click like it was starting, but the key was OFF.

that switch on the trans is probably the reverse light switch, double check the cluch switch and make sure you have a good ground to the body and engine, more important than the frame. you could always just use a push button for the starter/ hot wire in and load hooked to the "S" terminal on starter relay on fender/or/ on starter itself.

I saw a video on youtube this morning that had that setup:

I'm thinking this is my only other option besides going crazy with this ignition.

dude , we can fix it, did your truck have an auto trans or manual before? iwant you to get5b it to run first then we can we can wirry abi=out where the starter signal comes from. if i have to i will rip out my ignition switch so i can tell you what wire to use. the actual ignition switch on your truck is down at he bottom of the colum. where do you live? if you were in austin i would just come help yopu. my spelling looks fuct.been on river all day:c:

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

when you turn the key on do the dash lights come on, do the headlight work? if not thenthe body needs a ground..:rocking::rocking::rocking::rocking:

It had a manual transmission before (Borg Warner T18 4 speed)

When I turn the key on, the dash lights work, headlights work, radio works. BUT when I crank the key, NOTHING happens.

I replaced my ignition switch on the column just 2 years ago.

I live near Asheville, NC.