Sounds like the only thing you are missing is the clutch switch,

 

if you look under the dash on the clutch pedal linkage there is a switch on the plunger that pushes the clutch master cylinder with a connector on it that has about 4 or so wires on it, that it where the starter circuit is wired, look for power under there when you crank it, hell it may have come unpluged when you tore the truck apart.

 

Checked the clutch switch and nothing looked out of place, I went back and checked all my fuses under the dash too and all the fuses are fine.

 

well ****!!!

 

I back tracked to last week and remembered how I had it wired then. I drew a diagram of, so maybe this can solve my problem. Please note that when it was hooked up like this, the key only had to be ON, not fully to CRANK. And my lights, radios didnt work unless the key was ON as well. When I turned the key to OFF the engine would shut off, but I could still hear my starter spinning inside for a few seconds after the engine had already shut off. I'm thinking that the blue wire and the red wire both need to be hooked up or it will not work...When the blue wire was connected to the (+) battery terminal, my ENGINE light would be constantly on, even with the key out of the ignition, and when you poked it on the terminal, you could see my guage cluster flicker a bit. When the red wire was hooked to the (+) battery terminal, the ENGINE light only came on when the key was ON, and it did not mess with my guages inside. So here is the diagram of how it ran last week....

 

dont do that. the way you have the fender relay wired would directly short the pos and neg posts of the battery to eachother if you ever put power to the s terminal. The fender relay is not designed to operate that way, I dont know how it ran like that, because there is no power shown going to the IP, if you did wire the way you have shown, it should start cranking the engine and if it started the starter would just stay engaged until it burnt up. wire it the way I drew it and then figure out how to get 12 volts to the s terminal on the fender relay when you turn the key to the start position. but the way you have it now is asking for a fire and burning the **** out of your hands when try to rip the battery cable off once it starts cranking and wont stop.



this is how that relay works internally. if you put power and ground to the large studs and engage it by putting power to the s stud, it will energize the coil and the plunger will close the contacts and weld itself together and possibly blow up your battery.

 

try wiring in a temp push button.1-10 ga. wire to each side of the starter "relay" on the fender.Get it to turn over,then worry about the ign. A mechanical diesel is a simple engine. 1.make it spin
2.add fuel and air
3. It should go BANG!

 

I wired it back the way you had it Cumminsf150, the key still won't do anything, and when I try to jump it from the relay on the fender, the starter clicks but nothing else happens, and this is a brand new starter, battery.

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Upon further investigation with this wiring issuse, I went back and decided to check my grounds. I have 3 wires going to my ground battery terminal. 2 are together and the other is by itself. Both wires go through a fuse or something before the battery. This is what I found









So I went and looked up a diagram for the harness and this is what I found...


I don't what to do, is this an easy fix or should I prepare a blue tarp?

 

you are getting ahead of yourself, forget all that crap with the ecm, the ford harness all of it. that engine will start and run with 3 wires. get the engine to run by itself before you try to mess with the truck harness.

start over , you have new battery, new cables, if your starter is hooked directly to the battery with the large stud and the engine is grounded to the battery, and you run a jumper wire to the little stud on the starter and connect it to the battery, it should turn the engine. once you get it to do that, put power to the injector pump fuel solenoid, and crank it again. that should start your engine and run.

then back to your fender relay, remember when you said smoke poured out of it? it might not work now, and that might be why the starter just clicks, but dont even mess with that until you get the engine to run by itself.

you will not need the ecm or any of the related wiring, the gagues in the dash have their own circuits your oil and water will be one wire sending units, the two wires for your 2 gagues, a wire to your injector pump that has power when the key is on, and some kind of signal to your fender relay are all you need for this.

if you can get the engine to run, we can use a pushbutton start later.

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by the way the ecm wouldn't have a ground with the plug ripped out of it because it grounds through the plug, which is unplugged. you dont need the ecm rip it out and throw it out the window of whatever you are driving while your truck dosent work.

 

SHE RUNS!!!

I did exactly what you said and she fired right up.

So what do I need to do now? haha