Do you have access/ know how to weld? Mainly just need a abrasive cut off a drill press and a welder. Can build just about anything with that.

 

No I don't that's thebad part :/

 

I'm building another V2203 for my new truck, I believe this one is a tier II around a 2006-2008 model. I noticed the Kubota head castings (ports) are rough, really rough, like 80 grit sand paper. So I sat down today and did a little polishing, not sure if it'll make any difference but it can't hurt. It's bound to make the air flow easier. Other things I've learned from this engine vs. the older engine I've worked with. The IP casting is aluminum with 8mm plungers, the old DI I have has a steel pump with 7mm plungers. The IDI's have 5.5mm plungers and are steel bodied pumps. The new DI engine eliminate one of the springs attached to the front cover that provides tension for starting, instead they moved it to the rear and it pushes the rack forward. The governor spring is the same.

AND what's up with the picture uploaded?? Fails every time I try to load one, and I'm using the appropriate size files.

 

hey Kubotaman, I have not had any luck with pictures for a few days now. Really interesting to find out about the plunger size. Do you know what year or serial # they made the switch to the 8mm plungers???
While you are here, are you going to run a hitachi alt/vac pump on your new engine? I am re-eingineering/ planing my oil drain lines on the vac pump for I guess the 3rd time, as I never really have had a good system . The alt/vac pump really pushes a fair amount of oil. Do you see any problem placing the vac oil return line into the valve cover? This will put the drain line above the discharge port on the vac pump.
and did you ever sort out your low amp output???

 

Not sure when they went to the 8mm plunger but the other DI I have is probably a mid 90's engine. The one I have with 8mm plunger is serial number 2203-XC0920.

I am running the Hitachi alt/vac pump on my new truck, it's been great so far. I drilled both ports that would normally be used for a dip stick and tapped the one on the passenger side for the alt oil return. I pull the oil supply from one of the ports on the same side, there are about 4-5 different ports you can pull from, all are normally blocked off with an allen type screw.

Make sure you have the alternator intake vacuum port hooked up or blocked off if you run the engine, if not it will blow pressurize air into the engine, you'll think you have the worst blow-by ever! Learned that the hard way!

I guess you could return your oil through the valve cover, that's how I return my turbo oil.

My low amps were the result of a bad battery, no problems since I replaced it.

 

yeah my turbo would still be gravity drained into the valve cover. The vac pump will be up hill a couple of inches.
I still have yet to mod my oil pan, maybe when I do that I will put a access tube in the pan.

from looking in the carrier manual. if your serial # starts with an XC that dates your engine to Feb. 1999

 

Nice work on the porting! I think it will be an improvement, certainly can't hurt.

 

Thanks for the date on my engine, not as new as I thought it was. I wouldn't like running the drain up hill, it might work but I would like it.

 

FTE told me another way to date a little bit is the newer engines have the water temp sender in the cyl head at the back of the engine, and the older engines have temp sender in the thermostat housing.
I don't like the uphill drain either, I will just have to sort out something else.
I drilled out the back of one of the lower bolt holes on the block the thought was to run both turbo and vac/pump oil there, Maybe I will change yet again and put the turbo oil into the valve cover and the vac/pump oil down low on the block, or maybe the dipstick boss, or a modded oil pan, lots of choices there.

 

Looks like they got the picture up-loader working, here's my polishing work.