Didn't find it, built it. It's just the standard Kubota exhaust manifold with an home made adapter allowing the turbo to bolt on. There's probably a pic of in the thread somewhere.

 

Oh, cool I could do that. What do you recommend as far as fly wheels go? I'm building mine in a 91 ranger 4x4 extended cab. Almost have the adapter plate finished in auto cadd and then I'll be off to the cnc mill to make it

 

Using the Kubota flywheel was easier for me, I turned it down on the lathe and it worked fine. My question to you would be this; how can you produce an adapter plate without first knowing the where the flywheel will sit behind the engine? In other words, the thickness of the flywheel will effect the thickness of your adapter plate. If this distance isn't know first your clutch may not contact the flywheel properly.

 

That is what were till trying to figure out, its very easy to change the depth in cadd, we are just getting the bolt patterns set for the motor and bell housing, Im not sure how to figure out what flywheel to use and what depth to make the adapter. And how to make sure the tyranny is lined up exactly with the clutch cause I know there is no room for error there. I'm still kinda young, just turned 18 so there's a few things I'm unsure about...

 

I did it the old school way and used a paper/cardboard pattern. I used spray paint to transfer a print of the transmission bolt pattern and the engine bolt pattern. I centered the two patterns together and worked it form there. I think you will find that you need the flywheel completed before you can finish your CAD drawing.

 

OK, so say I stick with the kubota flywheel which I think I will, how do I know how much to turn it down to? And then after I mounted the ford clutch how do I know how thick to make the plate?

 

Just turn the flywheel down until it's flat and will accept the pressure plate, there's isn't a specific thickness, just so it's thick enough to support the clutch. Your Kubota flywheel will likely be thicker than the OEM flywheel. You will need your OEM engine with the stock flywheel on it. Measure from the rear of the engine, where the transmissions bell-housing would seat, to the face of the flywheel. This measurement is the distance the flywheel sits into the bell-housing. This distance must be the same when you figure your adapter plate, in other words, the flywheel must sit at the same dept in the bell-housing, regardless of the flywheel you use, if not the clutch won't work. Sound difficult, and it is, but it's not rocket science. Start with your flywheel and back into it, it's easier when you can put hands on and take actual measurements.

 

Thank you very much, that makes more sense, I think I can handle that! I get my motor Saturday night so I'll be sure to keep you all up to date, I have all my tech school teachers assisting on this build so hopefully it will go fairly smooth. I'm going to take my time and do it right. Also, I heard there is clearance issues with the oil pan? If this is true, opposed to notching the oil pan, would a suspension lift fix this issue?

 

No it won't, you will need to modify the oil pan and oil pickup tube.

 

Alright, thanks for the help I appreciate it! Let us know how the DI swap goes