It is progressing.

The Cj is stripped to the bare frame. Beautiful. Looks like new. Just put the axles back under it with new hardware and urethane bushings. Neighbor is a retired trans tech, rebuilding my T5. Main challenge I have there is sorting out the clutch, and what plate to use. Have my 4FB1 stripped down. All interior parts are pristine. Not touching the short block.
BOTH my engines had slight "chattering" on the cam bearings. And have been playing hell trying to find some. So warning: some parts are near impossible to find for this motor. :scare2:

However, it is an amazing lil diesel. With proper maintenance and care, they will last forever.

Still Holden on: Gemini clocks 1,000,000km | News.com.au

Holden owner upgrades after 22 years, 869,000 miles

I work on semi diesels, and there are VERY few diesels out there that will last 900,000 miles with no major work, Imported, American, or otherwise.

As far as a flywheel goes, I have no idea. I have one used one, and need it. And will need one myself, sometime. Here, try these two sites:
IsuzuPup.com • Index page
planetisuzoo - An Isuzu SUV Club

The IsuzuPup crowd has been a life saver several times over. Very helpful.
Just don't post stupid crap about "drifting" or how you are going to get 200+HP out of it. They tend not to respond to stuff like that.

Hello everyone,
I haven't posted in a long while. I am building a 1974 CJ5 with a 4FB1 conversion.
All this darn near BOLTS TOGETHER using FACTORY Jeep and Isuzu parts.

Sorry about the double thread. I had forgotten about this "build thread".

I gave up on the M90 idea. I will use a T15/T25 hybrid when the time comes.

I am finally close to the point of mounting the engine and trans together.
I am using a Isuzu 4FB1 Diesel, a rare Rodeo 2WD 2.3L gas T5 bell housing, a Jeep T5, and a D300 transfer case.
Unfortunately, I was unable to get the Rodeo T5 input shaft.

My question is, what suggestions for a stock application clutch disk?
Or suggestions for a clutch supplier that will build a cheap hybrid disk?
Anyone have an experience with Zoom or Centerforce, ect., in a hybrid/conversion situation?

I don't need anything fancy or expensive, in a stock(for now) 4FB1, and lightweight CJ5.

The input shaft is 10 spline, 1 1/8th Jeep T5 input shaft.
I believe 200MM is that the 4FB1 clutch diameter?

Any ideas, anyone?
:argh:

Don't know if you've solved your issues, but when I was restoring my '53 Flatfender, Advanced Adapters had a number of goodies for the T5. IIRC, Lakewood Bellhousings came through with some pertinent info and products for a different, but just as strange job. If you are running the post AMC frame, (84 inches, I think) you should have good driveline angles from the T-case to the diffs, but I didn't see in the thread what front axle you are running. Dana 30? The weight should be no problem on it, then, but the early IH Scouts did run D44's in the early years, and the width is just about right if you need a little more strength. If driveshaft length becomes a problem, and it always seems to in the CJ 3 and 5 platform, Advanced did offer an adapter to take the T5 to a Dana 20 or 18 T-case. The 18 is slightly offset to the passenger side, and a little noisier, but when they are rebuilt with the late production caged bearings (and larger input shafts -One and 1/4 inch, I think) they are really tough, short cases that have a 2.46 Low Range and are twin sticked, allowing 2WD low (gotta take out an interlock pill, but not hard to do at all).
Hope it keeps going well...

I am using the T5 as economy is a huge goal. I am rather hoping for 25-30 MPG on the highway. Might be doable, as the 4FB1 could easily get 55+ MPG in a Chevette. Lotta Jeep guys knock it, but I sought one out, and am having it blueprinted. I plan on being on the street most of the time anyways. If I can't crawl, or winch, I'm not going there. And with MAYBE putting out 100 HP AFTER a small T15/T25 hybrid turbo, in @ 2,600 lb CJ5, using the PROPER OIL, I REALLY think the T5 will be FINE.

Plus it seems that most every Jeep guy runs the WRONG OIL in his T5. I am possibly going to use very high quality motor oil in mine, like royal purple synthetic. I have to think about it a lil more, but I'm really leaning towards it. Every manual transmission I've owned of 1986 or newer vintage, domestic or Japanese, came with motor oil as the lube. My '86 Nissan 720, '85 Fiero GT, '91 Mercury Tracer wagon...

The drivetrain is: Isuzu 4FB1 1.8L SOHC 4 cyl. diesel, 2wd Isuzu Rodeo T5 bellhousing, Jeep T5, Jeep D300, stock 1974 Jeep CJ5 driveshafts, stock 1974 Jeep CJ5 axles.

I won't ever have transfer case problems. I hear the Dana D300 is plenty tough. And will be twin stick conversion capable.

My current challenge is a custom clutch plate, and where to have it made. The Jeep T5 input shaft is 1 1/8" 10 spline. The 4FB1 fiction area on the flywheel is 200 MM, or 7 7/8". Smallest 1 1/8" 10 spline friction disk I've seen is 9".

That is the current challenge.

Try clutch masters.

*ding* *ding* *ding*

We have a WINNER!:jump:

ClutchMasters, $85 + shipping for a one off custom clutch. One of TWO places out of ten or so to return my email, and $30 cheaper than the other place.

:rocking:

Happy to help out.

Sorry I have been AWOL so long. Life, and a Fiero GT has been distracting me. Decided the M90 is going on a 3500 for the GT, and I will turbo the 4FB1.
The timing cover will also be cat yellow, and there are a few bolts and details left, but you get the idea.
Anyways:
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8349&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8350&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8355&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8351&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8353&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8352&mode=view

My IP is screwy from storage, so overhauling the spare.

So, thought I'd share my latest score: a very low mileage, saab sourced, Garrett TB2531 "60" trim, .48/.49 AR, absurd cheap on CL. TINY lil thing. But, ball bearing, full floating center, water cooled, and did I mention TINY? Capable of supposedly supporting near 200HP. The inlet on the turbine side isn't even a full T25 style rectangle. It's a circle about @ 2" or less.

It came with a LOT of aluminum tubing, silicon elbows, ect. The saab intercooler if mounted correctly, might help catch oil and avoid run-on in the event of a turbo seal leak, as both the inlet and outlet are on one side of a narrow unit.

If I understand all the principals, this map illustrates that I should be 72% turbo efficiency at 14.7 psi boost @ 190 CFM @ 4,000 rpm.

http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8685&mode=viewhttp://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8719&mode=viewhttp://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8718&mode=viewhttp://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8718&mode=view

My two goals are @ 2-3psi boost at cruise, somewhere between 1,500RPM and 2,000RPM. The lower the better, as long as it is above say 1,250. This will coincide perfectly with the dyno proven torque curve of the N/A 4FB1 cam here in the US, and increase efficiency at cruise.

Plus, get the 4FB1 back up to @ 100-120hp, where it was originally designed to be. That tiny turbine inlet should be freakin PERFECT for low RPM boost!

I plan to never really wind the motor beyond 4,000RPM(like a "normal diesel"), and hope that I am getting 15psi OR LESS at that point. I know the factory governed redline is the highest I have heard of for a factory diesel, at a screaming 5,400. I have no need for that. I might do it occasionally to blow out the cobwebs, but very, very rarely. Depends on where real life testing shows @ 15psi.

A factory IDI diesel will NEVER make big power without huge mods. EVER. The combustion flame is deflected from the piston crown, so power is lost. The head restricts the flame front. Top end power is not much of a consideration for me. I just want to fill my 15 gal tank for <$15, get @ 30mpg, and have enough power to operate it safely. Think I might just do that, and the setup should last and last.

I have this bad habit of reading books, doing all the complex arithmetic, and keeping magazines and internet gleaned "info" to a distant, subjective suspicion.