1974 CJ5/1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel(M90 Blown)
 

Hi everyone.
New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project, a 1974 CJ5, with an 1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel. My build is a first to me in almost all ways. This is my first 4x4, and is the first diesel I have ever owned personally.

The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with @ 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it cheaper, too. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, but they are out there. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away...

And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 368lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have almost ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy steel rods and crank, ect... And can handle 15 PSI boost fine stock.

Please remember: Original CJ2a-M38a1 had same HP(@ 70), but the F-head motor was 100 lbs heavier...

Goals of the project are:
1) Mechanical injection exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly.
2) Cheap Fuel The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
3) Power Perhaps @ double or triple factory HP, which is possible.
4) Reliability
5) Simplicity
6) Cost (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability. And after buying the CJ, and the motor, I am WELL under my goal of > $2,000 so far. And still have plenty $$$ for trans., transfer case, and tires(which I feel will be the pricier items).
7) Fuel economy I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 30 MPG on the highway, I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby swamper/mudder tires. Think I'm going with Dunlop Radial Rover A/T's @ 235/75R15 standard sidewall(or equivalent). They are fairly lightweight, same weight as a regular passenger tire (29 lbs). But also, 29" in diameter, with some lug. Great reviews, even off road and in snow. AND under $400.

Attachment 20624

I noticed a Isuzu P'up at another site, that is running an Eaton M90 S/C.
Attachment 20625
Worked very nice. Almost too nice, as the Isuzu 5 spd didn't like it. His MPG was way down as well, but I feel much of that was pulley ratio. He said 3 psi AT IDLE. I guess your economy did suck.
He used Cummins 4BT boost timing components installed inside of the Isuzu "Altitude Compensator". Also 6.2 tips in the injectors. It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an FORD M90 in(easier to mount and run ducting) along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side.

However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab pressure oil line, return...

Prelim very rough calculations if I use the M90 reveal @ 1 to .95 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM's. The blower would live dang near forever. I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY. I think personally for my project my goals are to get full boost at 5,000RPM(this motor's Red Line), and keep it conservative, as I won't go that high often(hopefully). I'd like to HAVE the power there, available, but actually use it as sparingly as possible(so I don't stand out like a lil ol' lady angering everyone else merging with traffic!) My biggest concern is parasitic losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...But decent economy is also a factor, but then it WOULD be uber reliable, and 150 lbs torque is fine... And perhaps I could wire up a on/off switch to a A/C clutch, ala Mercedes Benz and/or Mad Max.

P/O garage, removing stock drive train.
Hard to see, but frame/suspension beautiful, aside from new fuel/brake lines.
Lotsa Body work to do, but complete body wise.
What repairs must be done, I don't have to research the original shape of the stamping.
Seats hacked, as well as the 1" cut fenders, quarters, and the cobbled square tubing "body lift".
Short nose going on.
Better pics soon.
Attachment 20622
Attachment 20623

Here's a crazy thing: I bought this motor UBER cheap on CL, before I did any research on Jeep transmissions. Or before I had the Jeep. Now, there is an UBER rare Isuzu Rodeo 2.6L I4 2WD 5 spd bell housing that mates MY engine(@ '82 vintage Isuzu Chevette sourced), with a T5. As in the SAME bolt pattern as the Jeep T5. Haven't looked too deeply into input shaft dia., or clutch components yet. But still, WHAT are the odds of THAT? A VERY kind soul met at an Isuzu forum found one in an AZ pick-your-part, pulled it, mailed it, no money up front. Received this "Holy Grail" last week.

Oh yes:
Also decided base color will be a "silver", as the base for the pixel urban camo.
An adaptation of this will be my "Nose Art".
Attachment 20626

And wherever there would be a single star on an M38, there will be a circle of 13...

Hey there....I had a diesel Amigo with the engine you are using. Go find an 80's 4x4 Isuzu and use the trans and transfer case...direct bolt up. Will give you five forward w/od. My Amigo got 32-35 mpg w/or without turbo. Took turbo off because daughter kept getting tickets. The 2.2 would probably have been betterfor your application. Make sure you install a new timing belt...and start looking for head bolts. My bolts failed @ 138k miles. If the belt slipps/snaps the engine will be scrap. Will look for photos. Also...check out So. American E-Bay. There are quit many Amigo's, P/U's down south.

Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it. :tu:

But I found out that an 1990-1997 Isuzu Rodeo(might be called something different in S. American Market) 2.6L I4 (gasoline) Manual 2WD has a T5 transmission. The T5 came in some 80's jeep CJ's stock, and MUCH stronger than the P'up 4 and 5 spds. What are the odds I'd randomly buy a motor first, and find out that it can bolt to a Jeep T5 with (ubur rare) Isuzu parts?:humm:

Starter is even in correct location. :jump:

Yes. The timing belt will be the first thing I do before I start the motor again(In storage until engine placed in CJ). Probably will buy a few high quality ones. Gotta love interference engine designs...

I poke @ Isuzu P'up and Planetisuzoo. Learned a great deal.

Update:
FINALLY got this home! Hard to borrow equipment with my schedule.
AND, just got a set of Military tailights(one glass lens), spare tire rack, '45 vintage 5 gal. "Gerry can"(already had a '51 can), FREE! PLUS, a buddy has a set of 15x7 NICE chrome wagon wheels that I can get CHEAP! I don't want the current 15x8's, as the offset causes them to stick out of the body a good 2 inches per side, and that doesn't go with the M38a1/military concept.
NO wheel flares...

This sounds like it's going to be a sweet combo. Good luck with the build :tu:

Thanks alot, Man!
I'd like to think so as well, and the numbers look good.
Heck, the M38a1 came with about the same HP, but weighed 100 Lbs. more.

Update: The PO said he had a set of original 16" military steelies, and he'd trade for my nasty 15x8 wagon wheels.
So, I think I'll run the 15x7's for now, and work on widening the military rims at a later date.
Having a hard time finding a short nose clip.
STILL have to go back down there and get the factory roll bar and axles.

Photos of my old Amigo Diesel
 

Understand I am not wishing to be an armchair builder, I have previously owned many diesels, both import and domestic. Also, my build list for engine repower is very long. I do not believe you will be satisfied with the performance of the 1.8. The 2.2 is a much better swap for your Jeep. I (hopefully) have posted a couple of photos of my old Amigo. Without the turbo..was very lazy..although did get you there. Off road...not good. Not enough power to pull the hat off your head. We used mostly as road vehicle and test mule. I did significant underhood temp tests for air intake location. My wife refused to ride in it when I had the 2.5" black pvc through the hood with the temp probe in it. Intake air was 85 degrees cooler. You could tell the difference in operation. I do wish you positive blessings on your project..and the good thing is you can pull out the 1.8 and bolt in a 2.2 with not problems. You are correct...the Isuzu club folks are a great bunch.

Sir,
Thanks for the input. I appreciate your interest, and time to offer advice.

I am sure it will be slow before I boost it. But MPG is actually a higher priority than power.
At least at first. It's a Diesel Jeep, not a muscle car.
Weighs @ 2,000 lbs, and steeper gears than either the Chevette, or Isuzu P'up. So it will be quicker than either of those, even N/A.

I went with this motor for cost($300, 60,000 miles), and economy(I hope for @30MPG).
I already have the 1.8L, with a running spare lined up for $300. I'll have under $700 in TWO low hour motors. I have also been in contact with a Master Isuzu tech, who says this motor will be fine with upwards of 15+PSI boost in stock configuration...and there is a guy with a turbo'd P'up running 20 PSI, with 30,000 miles on the mod. These motors are VERY tough in design. He has NEVER heard of anything breaking on them, save the timing belt, which is 100% owner neglect and laziness. They have piston cooling squirters, VERY beefy steel rods and crank, heavy main webbing, high nodular iron blocks. They were available turbo'd everywhere BUT the USA. They were designed/built FOR boost.

AND, the 2.2 under boost is KNOWN for breaking rods. :humm:
Pretty common problem, actually.:td:

I'll stick with the 1.8L.:tu:

Thanks again for the advice/opinion, and well wishes. Frame is nearly restored, and started on the tub. Hope to be running by early July...

I run 10 lbs of boost with the turbo installed. As mentioned in previous thread, I popped a head bolt. The Amigo had 4:10 gears with 235-85-15 rubber. Tried 9:50-15 and had to drive everywhere in 4th..use 5th on flat or downhill. Had a bunch of fun. The finally was getting rear ended by a lifted Jeep Grand Cherokee. Naturally...they had no insurance. I gathered parts...put it on a frame rack ..straightened it. By then...my Mrs. asked me to sell it...replace with something larger.

Keep us informed on progress.

All the best,

Ken :jump:

I see. So you did run boost on it!
Kewl the only prob you ran into was a head bolt.
Similar rubber to what I'll be running(235/75R15), steeper final drives(mine are 3.73, according to PO).
I found online between 400-1,600 lbs heavier than a CJ5, depending on what year Amigo.
What year was yours?

That really sucks getting rear ended by an uninsured.

I have been concerned about running LT/load range "C" tire sizes, as all that rubber lug gets heavy fast.
31x10.5R15 BFGoodrich all terrains is what I'd like but economy is pretty important.
And 40lbs. of rubber on each corner doesn't seem to fit into the equation.
I REALLY hope to be able to use 5th on the highway.

Thanks again Ken for the advice and input!:tu:

DieslJeep, what transmission are you going to be running in this? Depending on your OD ratio 3.73 might not be enough gear for that little motor.

I'm going to be using a blueprinted T5, and a casing stiffening system of my own design.
Lotsa Jeep guys down the T5, but yet they can handle decent power if built right.
And handle 500 FT. lbs. if ya dump $1,000+ into 'em.

They also need to be run with the right oil, which seems like a strangely uncommon occurrence in Jeep circles...

It was the easiest way to get overdrive without major mods. The strong, newer 5 spds. take LOTSA $$$ to use in a CJ5. There are 2 possible 1st gear ratios in a stock Jeep T5, and I'm uncertain of which one I have. Also, I didn't really want 90lbs of rotational mass when I'm going for economy, with a target of only @ 150-200 ft. lbs. Hence again, the T5.

PLUS, the Rare RODEO bellhousing ;)I have that mates my 1.8L(Starter even correct!!) PERFECTLY to a T5(stock mid 80's Jeep 5 spd.) with VERY minor machining.

T5 seemed the logical choice...

Nope I'm not gonna down a T5, I've built a few for cars and I like them. The biggest thing I would say about one in a truck(2 or 4wd) is that the first gear isn't all that great and they don't take hits very well. But no aluminum case takes hits well. Get the steel input retainer and a third gear upgrade if you're rebuilding it. I wasn't sure if you were just going to run a complete Isuzu 5-speed and t-case or not. All the Jeep and truck T5's I've seen listed are 4.0:1 first gear, but there were probably some other option. The big thing I've read on Jeep T5's is that there are two fifth gear options, a .7* and a .8*. With 3.73 gear in your truck I hope you got the .8 OD. If you got the .7 you probably want to look at 4.10-4.56 gear. If you run too many RPM's you'll lose efficiency, but if you're too low you'll lose then too.

What's the engine's ideal cruse RPM @55MPH? Cause with a .86 OD, 3.73 gears, and 235's you're cruising at 2053RPMs. With the .76 OD you're looking at 1814RPMs. Just another bite in the butt to think about. I've seen lots of people drop in OD trannies looking for economy, or better mileage and then not get it cause they don't have enough gear.

I still think this will be a great build though.

I think it WAS 5th that was two diff possibilities! I've absorbed so much info, it's getting blurry. :s: The whole trans thing really had me sweatin' for a good while. I thought I was going to end up hacking an isuzu trans. to make a custom bell housing.
I was DEFINITELY going to use a steel input retainer, and 3rd(I think, last gear, top row) is already munched, so I have to replace it(and matching lower gear to be safe) anyways. My guess is that someone was launching it hard. I bought it as ALL the Jeep T5's I have seen have been run hard behind a V8, and the input shaft was sloppy as all get out, and they STILL wanted $200-250 for 'em. I have @ $40 +$30 in gas in this one, and it was behind the original 6 cyl.
EXCELLENT sharing the knowledge/math, Bro!!!:tu: I was wondering what that all would equate to.:humm: I've done the prelim math on the S/C pulley size(the blower is almost as big as the engine displacement:lol88:, but not the gear ratios yet. That is an excellent question. I haven't peeked inside the trans. for a while, so I'm unsure of tooth count. I HAVE been wondering if I could get any economy at all with the blower running full time. That would be MUCH easier than bypassing it(via A/C clutch, and intake blower bypass) at cruise. Thing about a blower is they make boost down low(just like a diesel), so If I could cruise with @ 2-3PSI and overcome parasitic loss... I dunno yet. It seems I'm the first to put THIS motor(done before with a later 223 Isuzu) in a Jeep, so lotsa sorting out. Which is weird, as it dang near bolts up to a factory Jeep T5. Must not be big enough motor for most Jeep guys, as you usually see 700+ lbs. antique diesels putting out @ same HP I'm shooting for. Whatev.
And I ain't rich by any means, so the R and D is a bit more challenging. And then, I'm not only putting a completely unique diesel conversion together, I am also putting a S/C on it, which is huge in comparison to the 1.8L.
We are truly our own worst enemy. lol
Guess I hope I have the .86 as well! But if I DO have the .76, it would be an excuse for steeper gears!
So, was the T5 simple to rebuild? I am VERY mechanically inclined (used to crew chief an F-15E, built NUMEROUS customs and hot rods), and can fab/design dang near anything. BUT, never rebuilt a manual trans before. Any advice? Parts suppliers? Anything you can share would be a huge help.

Glad you can appreciate my out there, self complicating insanity.:bombin:

:ty:

The T5's are pretty simple. All the ones I worded with were WC units out of Fox-body mustang GT's, but they're all basically the same inside. If it is usable I'd recommend the Ford Motorsports rebuild kit. Summitt had the best price on them last time I had to get one. And this book is really good, IMHO, and has almost all the case tag numbers for reference.

With you running the a SC with a clutch on it is kinda cool. Have you thought about a micro switch on the throttle bracket to cut the clutch in and out? You could adjust it so that it wasn't depressed until a certain amount of throttle was used. This was at idle and just off idle you'd have no boost, but at partial to full throttle you'd have boost. It would be nice if you had some sort of 5th gear switch too, then it could cut boost while cruising. This is basically how modern SC cars and trucks work, it's just done through the computer. You might find though that there's a pulley out there that'll give you 0-2psi at little to no throttle, but still let you top out at 10-12 psi under full load. I really don't have a clue on SC's, I'm more of a turbo guy. Which is kinda odd cause I really only like quick spool linear boost turbos. I hate turbo lag. I'm just goofy I guess.

I'll check those out. I'm not sure if the motorsports kit can be used with my T5. I would GUESS it could be, as I THINK all of the gear shafts and casings are the same.
But I know it would be in my best interest, as the FM kit has upgraded components than what came in the Jeep T5.

Actually, I was planning on using a simple toggle switch on the dash. I'll know when I need boost, so throwing a switch isn't a biggie. My biggest concern is that with a clutch/bypass system, I also have to figure out how to bypass the blower for N/A operation. So that means some sort of valve inside the intake, which would have to be airtight when closed so boost doesn't leak out. Maybe I could use a valve downstream of the blower, with a weak spring. I dunno. The factory Ford bypass is smaller than the main intake tube, so it would constrict N/A breathing on a diesel, I would think.

I know the rough math for pulley size is a @ .80 under driven(I think my nomenclature is right. Smaller pulley on the blower), so at the 4fb1 redline (5,000RPM) I'm turning the blower @ 6,000 RPM. Although I probably want full boost lower, say @ 3,500-4,000 engine RPM. Even though the redline is 5,000, I probably do want to keep it down to 4,000. But @ this drive, I'm not creating boost until 1,000-1,500.

Lots to think about, but I'm a few weeks away from the jeep running N/A. I'll have plenty of testing, benchmarking to do. THEN install blower, testing, benchmarking.
THEN think about bypass if I'm not happy with the MPG. I'm actually hoping I can live without the bypass, as it might get a bit complicated.

Hmmm.....a toggle switch in the dash to turn the blower on and off. Watch Mad Max much?

Got to wonder how much HP that s/c will take to spin.

With the old 6&8-71 roots blowers a "rule of thumb" calculation was that the SC would take 10% of the total engine HP @ wide open throttle. Now that's just the "seat of the pants" type guesstimation, so true numbers will vary. I can't find the actual formula to figure it out though. I'd guess it's probably in the 10-15HP range, kinda like the old Frigidaire and York AC compressors. Those things just sucked engine power.

The parasitic loss for a M90 turning @ 6,000PRM will be <20 HP. So if I'm putting out 150+ HP(which might be conservative), I feel it's acceptable, as I'll still be @ double factory rating of the 4FB1. And spinning the S/C so "slowly" will produces a VERY cool charge, esp. in comparison to a turbo. And I'll be using a charge cooler.

Considering my expenses will be $50 in TIG welding aluminum brackets, and buying a pulley or two. So what, $100 total?

Whereas a rough figure for turbo'ing (PROPERLY!!) would be @ $700-$1,000, and a LOT more fabbing...

And if I feel confident later to up the boost, I change a pulley. That's it.

I think it's a cool idea. SC's always cost to run, but the gains out weigh the costs.

Personally though I think I'd try to look into some type of throttle mounted clutch switch. But whatever floats your boat, it's your ride. Ideally the setup would also need to kick out while cruising. But that can start to get a bit tricky to wire out. Install a shift knob with a button and away you go.

Thanx man.

It would be a good idea, but my biggest hesitation is sorting out an intake bypass.
If I cut the blower off, I have to bypass it.
That is the hard part. I really don't have any thoughts how I could do it without mad time and $$$.

Any ideas welcome here.

Simplicity of design and operation is fairly important.

A BOV would work fine. Just a cheap E-Bay $30 atmo-venting unit. Now the mounting of it, that depends on how you're going to hook the SC to the intake. How are you going to do this?

In my little head I see the SC mounted to the block like any other accessory would be. With a plate bolted to the output side. The plate having a feed tube welded to it. the feed tube going to an IC or strait to the intake. I've seen homemade units with this general idea. Now the Ford M90's had a rear cast-tube output and some sort of recirculation valve. I don't know what your M90 came off of, I might have missed it. Here's a link to a photo gallery of a guy that used a Ford M90 T-bird unit and fabed up all the stuff to put it on his 4.0L Jeep; 4.0L SC Maybe that'll give you some ideas.

I was going snorkle into the filter housing, into the blower, into the I/C, into the intake.

Probably mount the blower right side up(ford app),
blowing into I/C, on exhaust side of engine compartment(driver's).
Headers coated and wrapped, with heat shield.

The 4FB1 doesn't allow for really any other choice, as passenger side is cluttered with Inj. pump and intake.
I take aesthetics and serviceability into consideration.

Plus I/C is opposing side inlet/outlet.

Mounting the blower, and intake duct is easy.
Well, straight forward.

An intake routing I can shut off and on, that's hard.
What I mean is when I am running around N/A, I need to feed the engine air, bypassing the S/C.
If I turn off the blower with an A/C clutch, the rotors aren't spinning.
I have to bypass it completely, to run N/A(naturally aspirated).

That's why I was thinking I might discard the clutch idea.

Unless I'm missing your point about the B/O valve...

I'll be painting it Cat yellow, with a cast aluminum cat placard I restored mounted on the valve cover.
Black wrinkle finish valve cover.
That will screw with some people.

BTW, friend. I wanted to help you with something.
The motor in your pic IS a 1.8L 4FB1. It is an overhead cam, easily distinguished by the large plastic covers that resemble a tiny CATERPILLAR 3406 gear drive.
Also, 4FB1 is a cross-flow head, intake on right side(looking forward, in car), exhaust on left:
Attachment 21254
The 2.2L was a push rod motor, totally different valve cover, and exhaust/intake both on left. and looks like this:Attachment 21253
BTW: 4FB1 MUCH better motor, on ALL counts!!

Chum, if you see a better way to mount the blower, pipe in Bro!

OK yes you are completely correct......I brain farted.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

The first pic in post #24 is of a 1.8L, like what you are using correct? Sorry my Isuzu diesel experience is with the old 4BD's and the new 6.6L and 7.8L engines. And your M90 is off a Super Coupe, correct?

I say bracket that sucker over top the alt on the driver's side. With that little motor in a "big" CJ5 you'll have tons of room to run plumbing. I'd probably consider some kind of filter box like a Spectre #9833, or modding an E350 filter box. But something that is more of an in-line style, as opposed to an air pan or box, but use whatever you've got or can get a deal on. I re-purposed some old Wisconsin oil bath air cans once cause they were free. Run the snorkel on the driver's side into the filter housing, housing to SC, SC to IC, IC to intake.

Yes, the first shot is a 4FB1. And yes, and M90 off a T-Bird.
And exactly, my thoughts. Mount it above the Alt.
The PO of the 4FB1 gave me a filter box, with a oval filter element, but I thought about something else.
We'll see.

well I was wrong.
It will take @ 15HP to turn @ 6,000 RPM.
I will be shooting for 200HP, but @ 150HP will do.
M45Attachment 21260
M62Attachment 21261
M90Attachment 21259

I think I will be fine...

That was a pretty lot information.It seemed you acquired all the minute details you can.

:tu:
I've certainly tried to do my research. I'm not made of money, so I can't afford casual mistakes...

How is your build now that it has been a year I just scored a a couple 4fb1's and a 5 spd trans but its locked up the trans I mean, only problem is I have no flywheel, know anyone with a flywheel or what others will fit

It is progressing.

The Cj is stripped to the bare frame. Beautiful. Looks like new. Just put the axles back under it with new hardware and urethane bushings. Neighbor is a retired trans tech, rebuilding my T5. Main challenge I have there is sorting out the clutch, and what plate to use. Have my 4FB1 stripped down. All interior parts are pristine. Not touching the short block.
BOTH my engines had slight "chattering" on the cam bearings. And have been playing hell trying to find some. So warning: some parts are near impossible to find for this motor. :scare2:

However, it is an amazing lil diesel. With proper maintenance and care, they will last forever.

Still Holden on: Gemini clocks 1,000,000km | News.com.au

Holden owner upgrades after 22 years, 869,000 miles

I work on semi diesels, and there are VERY few diesels out there that will last 900,000 miles with no major work, Imported, American, or otherwise.

As far as a flywheel goes, I have no idea. I have one used one, and need it. And will need one myself, sometime. Here, try these two sites:
IsuzuPup.com &bull; Index page
planetisuzoo - An Isuzu SUV Club

The IsuzuPup crowd has been a life saver several times over. Very helpful.
Just don't post stupid crap about "drifting" or how you are going to get 200+HP out of it. They tend not to respond to stuff like that.

Hello everyone,
I haven't posted in a long while. I am building a 1974 CJ5 with a 4FB1 conversion.
All this darn near BOLTS TOGETHER using FACTORY Jeep and Isuzu parts.

Sorry about the double thread. I had forgotten about this "build thread".

I gave up on the M90 idea. I will use a T15/T25 hybrid when the time comes.

I am finally close to the point of mounting the engine and trans together.
I am using a Isuzu 4FB1 Diesel, a rare Rodeo 2WD 2.3L gas T5 bell housing, a Jeep T5, and a D300 transfer case.
Unfortunately, I was unable to get the Rodeo T5 input shaft.

My question is, what suggestions for a stock application clutch disk?
Or suggestions for a clutch supplier that will build a cheap hybrid disk?
Anyone have an experience with Zoom or Centerforce, ect., in a hybrid/conversion situation?

I don't need anything fancy or expensive, in a stock(for now) 4FB1, and lightweight CJ5.

The input shaft is 10 spline, 1 1/8th Jeep T5 input shaft.
I believe 200MM is that the 4FB1 clutch diameter?

Any ideas, anyone?
:argh:

Don't know if you've solved your issues, but when I was restoring my '53 Flatfender, Advanced Adapters had a number of goodies for the T5. IIRC, Lakewood Bellhousings came through with some pertinent info and products for a different, but just as strange job. If you are running the post AMC frame, (84 inches, I think) you should have good driveline angles from the T-case to the diffs, but I didn't see in the thread what front axle you are running. Dana 30? The weight should be no problem on it, then, but the early IH Scouts did run D44's in the early years, and the width is just about right if you need a little more strength. If driveshaft length becomes a problem, and it always seems to in the CJ 3 and 5 platform, Advanced did offer an adapter to take the T5 to a Dana 20 or 18 T-case. The 18 is slightly offset to the passenger side, and a little noisier, but when they are rebuilt with the late production caged bearings (and larger input shafts -One and 1/4 inch, I think) they are really tough, short cases that have a 2.46 Low Range and are twin sticked, allowing 2WD low (gotta take out an interlock pill, but not hard to do at all).
Hope it keeps going well...

I am using the T5 as economy is a huge goal. I am rather hoping for 25-30 MPG on the highway. Might be doable, as the 4FB1 could easily get 55+ MPG in a Chevette. Lotta Jeep guys knock it, but I sought one out, and am having it blueprinted. I plan on being on the street most of the time anyways. If I can't crawl, or winch, I'm not going there. And with MAYBE putting out 100 HP AFTER a small T15/T25 hybrid turbo, in @ 2,600 lb CJ5, using the PROPER OIL, I REALLY think the T5 will be FINE.

Plus it seems that most every Jeep guy runs the WRONG OIL in his T5. I am possibly going to use very high quality motor oil in mine, like royal purple synthetic. I have to think about it a lil more, but I'm really leaning towards it. Every manual transmission I've owned of 1986 or newer vintage, domestic or Japanese, came with motor oil as the lube. My '86 Nissan 720, '85 Fiero GT, '91 Mercury Tracer wagon...

The drivetrain is: Isuzu 4FB1 1.8L SOHC 4 cyl. diesel, 2wd Isuzu Rodeo T5 bellhousing, Jeep T5, Jeep D300, stock 1974 Jeep CJ5 driveshafts, stock 1974 Jeep CJ5 axles.

I won't ever have transfer case problems. I hear the Dana D300 is plenty tough. And will be twin stick conversion capable.

My current challenge is a custom clutch plate, and where to have it made. The Jeep T5 input shaft is 1 1/8" 10 spline. The 4FB1 fiction area on the flywheel is 200 MM, or 7 7/8". Smallest 1 1/8" 10 spline friction disk I've seen is 9".

That is the current challenge.

Try clutch masters.

*ding* *ding* *ding*

We have a WINNER!:jump:

ClutchMasters, $85 + shipping for a one off custom clutch. One of TWO places out of ten or so to return my email, and $30 cheaper than the other place.

:rocking:

Happy to help out.

Sorry I have been AWOL so long. Life, and a Fiero GT has been distracting me. Decided the M90 is going on a 3500 for the GT, and I will turbo the 4FB1.
The timing cover will also be cat yellow, and there are a few bolts and details left, but you get the idea.
Anyways:
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8349&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8350&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8355&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8351&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8353&mode=view
http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8352&mode=view

My IP is screwy from storage, so overhauling the spare.

So, thought I'd share my latest score: a very low mileage, saab sourced, Garrett TB2531 "60" trim, .48/.49 AR, absurd cheap on CL. TINY lil thing. But, ball bearing, full floating center, water cooled, and did I mention TINY? Capable of supposedly supporting near 200HP. The inlet on the turbine side isn't even a full T25 style rectangle. It's a circle about @ 2" or less.

It came with a LOT of aluminum tubing, silicon elbows, ect. The saab intercooler if mounted correctly, might help catch oil and avoid run-on in the event of a turbo seal leak, as both the inlet and outlet are on one side of a narrow unit.

If I understand all the principals, this map illustrates that I should be 72% turbo efficiency at 14.7 psi boost @ 190 CFM @ 4,000 rpm.

http://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8685&mode=viewhttp://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8719&mode=viewhttp://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8718&mode=viewhttp://www.isuzupup.com/download/fil...8718&mode=view

My two goals are @ 2-3psi boost at cruise, somewhere between 1,500RPM and 2,000RPM. The lower the better, as long as it is above say 1,250. This will coincide perfectly with the dyno proven torque curve of the N/A 4FB1 cam here in the US, and increase efficiency at cruise.

Plus, get the 4FB1 back up to @ 100-120hp, where it was originally designed to be. That tiny turbine inlet should be freakin PERFECT for low RPM boost!

I plan to never really wind the motor beyond 4,000RPM(like a "normal diesel"), and hope that I am getting 15psi OR LESS at that point. I know the factory governed redline is the highest I have heard of for a factory diesel, at a screaming 5,400. I have no need for that. I might do it occasionally to blow out the cobwebs, but very, very rarely. Depends on where real life testing shows @ 15psi.

A factory IDI diesel will NEVER make big power without huge mods. EVER. The combustion flame is deflected from the piston crown, so power is lost. The head restricts the flame front. Top end power is not much of a consideration for me. I just want to fill my 15 gal tank for <$15, get @ 30mpg, and have enough power to operate it safely. Think I might just do that, and the setup should last and last.

I have this bad habit of reading books, doing all the complex arithmetic, and keeping magazines and internet gleaned "info" to a distant, subjective suspicion.