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Thanx man.
It would be a good idea, but my biggest hesitation is sorting out an intake bypass. If I cut the blower off, I have to bypass it. That is the hard part. I really don't have any thoughts how I could do it without mad time and $$$. Any ideas welcome here. Simplicity of design and operation is fairly important. |
A BOV would work fine. Just a cheap E-Bay $30 atmo-venting unit. Now the mounting of it, that depends on how you're going to hook the SC to the intake. How are you going to do this?
In my little head I see the SC mounted to the block like any other accessory would be. With a plate bolted to the output side. The plate having a feed tube welded to it. the feed tube going to an IC or strait to the intake. I've seen homemade units with this general idea. Now the Ford M90's had a rear cast-tube output and some sort of recirculation valve. I don't know what your M90 came off of, I might have missed it. Here's a link to a photo gallery of a guy that used a Ford M90 T-bird unit and fabed up all the stuff to put it on his 4.0L Jeep; 4.0L SC Maybe that'll give you some ideas. |
I was going snorkle into the filter housing, into the blower, into the I/C, into the intake.
Probably mount the blower right side up(ford app), blowing into I/C, on exhaust side of engine compartment(driver's). Headers coated and wrapped, with heat shield. The 4FB1 doesn't allow for really any other choice, as passenger side is cluttered with Inj. pump and intake. I take aesthetics and serviceability into consideration. Plus I/C is opposing side inlet/outlet. Mounting the blower, and intake duct is easy. Well, straight forward. An intake routing I can shut off and on, that's hard. What I mean is when I am running around N/A, I need to feed the engine air, bypassing the S/C. If I turn off the blower with an A/C clutch, the rotors aren't spinning. I have to bypass it completely, to run N/A(naturally aspirated). That's why I was thinking I might discard the clutch idea. Unless I'm missing your point about the B/O valve... I'll be painting it Cat yellow, with a cast aluminum cat placard I restored mounted on the valve cover. Black wrinkle finish valve cover. That will screw with some people. |
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Originally Posted by KenM
(Post 763461)
Understand I am not wishing to be an armchair builder, I have previously owned many diesels, both import and domestic. Also, my build list for engine repower is very long. I do not believe you will be satisfied with the performance of the 1.8. The 2.2 is a much better swap for your Jeep. I do wish you positive blessings on your project..and the good thing is you can pull out the 1.8 and bolt in a 2.2 with not problems. You are correct...the Isuzu club folks are a great bunch.
The motor in your pic IS a 1.8L 4FB1. It is an overhead cam, easily distinguished by the large plastic covers that resemble a tiny CATERPILLAR 3406 gear drive. Also, 4FB1 is a cross-flow head, intake on right side(looking forward, in car), exhaust on left: Attachment 21254 The 2.2L was a push rod motor, totally different valve cover, and exhaust/intake both on left. and looks like this:Attachment 21253 BTW: 4FB1 MUCH better motor, on ALL counts!! Chum, if you see a better way to mount the blower, pipe in Bro! |
Originally Posted by DieslJeep
(Post 766998)
An intake routing I can shut off and on, that's hard. What I mean is when I am running around N/A, I need to feed the engine air, bypassing the S/C. If I turn off the blower with an A/C clutch, the rotors aren't spinning. I have to bypass it completely, to run N/A(naturally aspirated). That's why I was thinking I might discard the clutch idea. . OK yes you are completely correct......I brain farted. ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- The first pic in post #24 is of a 1.8L, like what you are using correct? Sorry my Isuzu diesel experience is with the old 4BD's and the new 6.6L and 7.8L engines. And your M90 is off a Super Coupe, correct? I say bracket that sucker over top the alt on the driver's side. With that little motor in a "big" CJ5 you'll have tons of room to run plumbing. I'd probably consider some kind of filter box like a Spectre #9833, or modding an E350 filter box. But something that is more of an in-line style, as opposed to an air pan or box, but use whatever you've got or can get a deal on. I re-purposed some old Wisconsin oil bath air cans once cause they were free. Run the snorkel on the driver's side into the filter housing, housing to SC, SC to IC, IC to intake. |
Yes, the first shot is a 4FB1. And yes, and M90 off a T-Bird.
And exactly, my thoughts. Mount it above the Alt. The PO of the 4FB1 gave me a filter box, with a oval filter element, but I thought about something else. We'll see. |
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well I was wrong.
It will take @ 15HP to turn @ 6,000 RPM. I will be shooting for 200HP, but @ 150HP will do. M45Attachment 21260 M62Attachment 21261 M90Attachment 21259 I think I will be fine... |
That was a pretty lot information.It seemed you acquired all the minute details you can.
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Originally Posted by jeniD4u
(Post 767639)
That was a pretty lot information.It seemed you acquired all the minute details you can.
I've certainly tried to do my research. I'm not made of money, so I can't afford casual mistakes... |
How is your build now that it has been a year I just scored a a couple 4fb1's and a 5 spd trans but its locked up the trans I mean, only problem is I have no flywheel, know anyone with a flywheel or what others will fit
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