ANY UPDATES PJ?

nothing major mate.we have good snow here right now and some low temperatures,so any work on the build outdoors is on hold.
but! because im keen to progress my 1977 3/4 ton w200 power wagon.:bombin:
i have bought a few of the lesser jobs indoors just to make some progress.
i have plated and welded [MIG] some of the front clip which was in poor shape,next on the bench are the wings which are seriously rotten and require major re-skinning in places,although i haven't looked into the price of new re pop body panels,i do know a new screen will cost me around £200/$286-so im in no hurry to find out,i,d rather spend the time while i have it.
the engine/trans job is booked in for early january,but so are a lot of other things,so we will see,as i have said before getting engine and transmission hooked up and set in the chassis will be the most difficult part of this build for me.
but as soon as this is done im away running with lots of the one off fab work that i really enjoy.

got the lincoln tig welder sold,this was taking up all the space in my shop-it,s a tiny place set up to do motorcycles-the guy collects it on sunday,so i can get the engine and trans lined up again and get my next set of measurements.
the snow has gone here -for now.:pca1:

putting some pictures in here

donors

back to the welding-

PJ,

Did you find the proper pressure plate for this set up?

i have the stock item,the performance ones were way too much corn for a rough old mud truck:rocking:.i found a spicer T5-350 sync transmission,but it has no pto,im still juggling with ideas,got some work done on the tin,and been researching the rewire.
i really need some dry weather demmitt.:dang:

still doing tin work,rusty old iron.building the cold air intake from a prototype icing duct intake horn from a v22 osprey.

ok, got a bunch of stuff done and still not much to look at-roll on springtime-

here,s a few shots of some of the stuff i got made-

a few of the cold air intake,this intake will sit up on the roof,i still gotta figure a water trap/drop out-any ideas?
cut the whole deal outta card,settled on a desighn and jig sawed it from ally-tig,d up the main parts.then went to see mark who final rolled the cover

this whole mess will sit on the roof of the cab,then feed into a PVC pipe [an idea from diesel bombers] then down to a box around the k&n or pipercross airfilter which will sit on the turbo intake.

we got the rear bed humped into the yard today,man this is as rusty as i,d consider worthwhile,i,d say 40% of the side seams are rusted right away,luckily a quick measure shows that i wont [hopefully] have to cut the bed twice,as the rear looks like it will sit just right-final measure i hope will confirm this.still have to weld some braces across before i cut the rear off the bed-looks like about 20 inches needs to come out.

i tell ya -this guy who invented rust...:bat:

here,s some older shots i just found,this is how i mounted the cab to the chassis,it,s a tee frame and the factory rubber bushes sit onto this.

here,s the picture i forgot to add above-im gonna stick to metal work for the rest of the nite-

PJ,
Looks like you made a good bit of progress. :tu: I see the snow is gone and now your into the mud season.
I like the cab mounts, looks like they should be strong enough to keep the cab in place. Where did you come across the Osprey intake?
Are you shortening the bed to fit the frame? Does the wheel well end up in the correct location?
:c:

hey!

the mighty dodge brothers saw fit to engineer the bed just right for the u.s. army and just right for my truck too-i will only have to cut 20 inches out of the front of the bed,the arch looks to sit just right from there back-with no cutting,which is pretty cool.MOPAR!! FOR LIFE.
this is all subject to having a proper measure up when it stops raining.
the V22 OSPREY possibly:hellox: has a lot of parts developed here in the un- united kingdom,prototypes are possibly:hellox: not used for the final design.
i made the entire cold air intake around this intake horn-which has the same perfect shape as current race prepared intake ports-strangely enough.
tomorrow i hope to take a step nearer the engine/trans saga-

meanwhile i got my K.D.P to do,decide what timing to put in there,possibly new valve springs and look at getting some paint on there.

made up two centre,s to allow accurate engine/ trans alignment.

one sits inside the clutch alignment tool we made,one sits on the trans input shaft snout.

remade the pilot bearing adaptor.

made a 26mm spacer to set the trans bell correct dist. away from the eng bell.

set eng/trans bellhousings verticaly parralell using setting bar.

set eng/trans bellhousings horizontally paralell using setting bar.

set eng/trans level with machine level.

check and then steam in with the 'blue glue.:choochoo:

got some more jobs knocked off-set the bed level on some heavy timbers,then got my site laser level to ping the lines up the side,i marked out the bed to suit the rear of the truck chassis-it needed 18 inches removing-thanks to MR MILWAUKEE SAWZALL-i got the bed rubbled in short order.

then i flared the front end of the cut bed up and cut the corners at an angle,this allows my cut part to slide in.one of the spot welded bed braces underneath was right in the way-cut this out as there is another one thats part of the rear section.

next i cut two lumps of timber and cramped them onto the bed rails,this gives me a spigot to hang the rear bed end from.makes it easier whilst working alone and with a wrecked spine- [ still love moto-x ]
a few measures and some grinding and hammering and it was all held tight with a 0.5 tonne ratchet strap.

THANKS to MR MAKITA 4" GRINDER and the ratchet strap family.

then i ground up all the edges and STITCH welded the seams.

you can see the front deck of the bed is flared up here,allows me to slide things around until it,s where i want,i left an inch and a half extra on the rear end of the bed,this overlaps the other part and then i can drill 1/4" holes in a zig zag pattern and plug weld these when things are all lined up.

the cap was a present from my brother-reads- STILL PLAYS WITH TRUCKS

last job before the pub-i dragged this armoured personel carrier -A-frame out of the barn and trial fitted it to the DODGEYMOG chassis pintle,s -i will have to make some parts on the lathe for it to work.

then on march 12-i can drag this sorry,engineless truck down to my pal marks welding shop , where i will use his 2.5 tonne forklift to fit the engine and gearbox with it,s new bellhousing

AT FEKKIN LAST!!!

:jump::jump::jump::rocking::rocking::w2::tttt:

Nice progress :c: on the bell housing and truck bed. I like that tow bar :rocking:
How about a couple of pictures of how you got the steering column hooked up to the Mog chuck?

Side note: I noticed in one of the pictures that you have a hover craft lawn mower....do you have a putting green in your yard? :w2:

ya,the lawn---i remember the lawn:w2:known locally as the ' v8 vegetable patch '

i spent some time in my machine shop today,then went out on the harley...the SUN was out!!:s:

got the adaptors finnished one side for the tow frame,i made two 'top hat' bushes that will fit into the- A- frames hitch forks and allow a snug fit for the 25.4mm/1-0" EN34B steel bar with a curl pin through one end and an 'R' clip ,still to do the other side and make a civvy/military lightboard for towing.i have a diagram of both circuits.

put the steering in today and also scored enough heavy wall tubular steel to make my own [4] axle stands- 2 short,2 long.

i also took some shots of the rusty,wrecked cab.

Looks like the steering linkage was easy to get hooked up.
Did you get the DODGEYMOG chassis moved to the welding shop?

been busy bert,turning the towing frame adaptor pins and bushes ,just got to re-wire the 12 pin NATO lead into a 7 pin civvy lead from the towing board and i,m ready to rock,im towing the truck down to marks place on wednesday-so will hopefully have pictures and progress by then.
cheers mate.:pca1:

got some done-
de seized the -a- frame
finnished the tow pins
wired up military/civilian lightboard for towing
winched chassis outta my backyard
loaded cummins,trans into landrover 110
hooked DODGEYMOG on the back
dragged the whole mess to my mates at BROOKLANDS WELDING
kicked butt with the plasma cutter:w2:

setting the eng/trans level is a cinch using the home made alighnment tool and the two centre,s made on my lathe-
bolted up there is no movement between the two halfs.
slinging hte motor/trans combo took a lot longer than we thought-
once slung to my satisfaction-in it went after mark plasma cut the trans tunnel.

motor and trans in-they will have to come out again and i intend to design a lifting frame.

well tired started at 05:30 got home 20:10.but i wanted a different truck to all the bought or 'built'=bolt on shit i see.
progress:rocking:

I like how the bell housing adapter turned out. :rocking:
I love doing fab work like that. I like the two lathe centers idea you used for alignment. The last adapter I made, I used a Co-Axial indicator for a vertical mill to align the bell housing and trans shaft.
The first picture in post #67 cracked me up.
The rims on your DODGEYMOG look almost like the WW2 combat rims going on my M37, but mine are only 5 lug.
That truck of yours is going to be a killer looking beast when it's done. How strict are they in England about front and rear bumper heights?
Will you have a hard time with the transition from right hand drive/left hand shift to the Dodge left hand drive right hand shift?

That thing is gonna be sweet :tu:

thanks guys,encouragement really helps these 'great ideas' along!:tu:

bert, i was lucky that the SUMB chassis was left hand drive also,same as the dodge,so it all worked out well,doing a left to right conversion is a real PITA.
both the props [ drive and PTO ] look to be lined right up.
mark takes the credit for the bell housing,he made a nice job of it and real strong too.
the landrover [ massively overloaded ] coped so well with dragging the DODGEYMOG and its drive train.next wednesday we will finnish weld the front engine mounts,mount the 25 tonne rear NATO pintle,then it,s a major mission getting back into my yard-AND THEN THE WORK STARTS!:scare2:

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

:s:

PJ, I saw that the Dodge was a left hand drive just like the MOG which is a blessing for your whole project.
I was wondering if you as the driver will have a problem with the transition between left and right hand drive. :humm:

sorry mate,im kinda hyper with motorcycle builds here and trucks,i need a more relaxing hobby!

i drive left hookers here i had my first MILVEH a dodge M890 in 1993? [LHD] most modern british army kit is spec'd LHD as most of our work is abroad-it,s not so bad once you get your head round it.
of course us ENGLISH/IRISH types believe we drive on the correct side of the road,and everyone else drives on the wrong side....:pca1:

got some daylight shots of the motor and trans in there.and it rains...:moon:

got to eye up a few of the issues that will have to be dealt with next-

panhard rod is too close to sump-

steering arm link bar is too close to sump-

exhaust and air to turbo will share the same route,want air below exhaust,creative pipework time.

have to make a beefier transmission crossmember.

rough out the pipework for the intercooler.

design a wiring loom 12 volt and 24 volt.

found a truck with FAT 12.50 X 20 xzl,s same lug pcd,s as my axles,just need to find some and pay for um:pca1:

In post #68, picture #2 looks like you have room to lift the whole power plant straight up by a couple of inches and maybe forward a few inches. What does the propeller shaft angle look like now? Will it clear the winch control lever? :pca1:

hi bert,
i see you go through the pictures and spot things-good stuff.the transfer box will stay where is,the PTO is wierd,and will most likely cause a small hump right where my foot wants to sit on the throttle,i think having the bench seat back in there will allow me to move the accelerator pedal clear,still pondering how it all lays.
the motor may get a small lift up using a solid packer,there is a lot of room under the bonnet/hood to go up with,but i dont want to compromise the prop angles.the main drive from the trans to the transfer case is about where i want to be,might go up a little maybe 1/2 " max,the front of the sump needs re-working to get a shade more clearance for the front pumpkin.
the panhard arm is a no brainer.

the steering may prove more difficult.yet to have a good look into this.

the stock intercooler is ok,may swap it though.

the mog radiator is far too big and the stock cummins rad is like half the size-still juggling stuff.

beautiful spring day here.:jump:

started the day the best irish way-juicy local bacon and soda bread sarnie,s,a good ale and the best whiskey made for later on-
body thrown on rails,time to shim it,move it,then measure up a few things and layout the rear body frame.
looks like i,ll have a fair amount of room below the bed-im thinking fuel tank,batteries,air tanks and valves,hydraulic tipper pump and gear,and possibly a bottle for propane injection.

:tu: I love watchin projects come along and take shape. Very cool indeed

right,so i got the body sat right,this allowed me to see where i need to support the rear bed.
this truck wont be hauling it,s rated 1.75 tonnes no more,but i still build it strong,just incase i need to carry a 6v-71 or a 6v-92 detroit donk for the next project...

started with many,many cuts on the baby bandsaw.
tacked up the outer frame and finnish welded.
then layed up the cross braces and tack welded.
i got the materials cut and ready for the lathe to make the uprights that will form the hinges.hope to get the hinges finnished and tack welded up tomorrow.
as you can see my tiny workshop is set up for doing motorcycles,when i play with my truck stuff here,it,s TOTAL CHAOS:wave::bombin:
gotta go to the pub tomorrow nite-were organising a hot rod show for end of MAY.:s: