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cheap 12v to superduty swap

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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Default cheap 12v to superduty swap

I bought my 93 w350 with the purpose doing a swap. I went with a 99 sd f250 4x4 v10 that I bought for pennies, $2500. My 93 had a fairly new getrag, so I decided to use it for the time being to save $. Did some research and found out dodge (03 and up 2500 & 3500) uses the same 271/273 t case as the superduty, so I bought a 29 spline input gear from allstate gear in San Antonio TX for $162 and it was a perfect fit! The getrag bolts right up, no mods at all, even the castings match up. I mounted the tranny and tcase couple night ago and mocked the engine to figure out the mounts. Unfortunatly my 3yr old boy hid the camera but I did find it and have picks of the tranny crossmember mod and I'll pic the engine mount setup. I'll put a price list together when I get done, but right now it looks like I'm at about $4200, and thats buying both trucks, and selling old parts. I'll be posting picks and desciptions when I get a little closer to being done. The one thing I wanted pics of for everyone was the tcase gear install, but it was quite simple, not much in there.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Sounds great - just what I want to do but not sure I can pull it off.
 
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 06:49 AM
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It's not too bad, just very time consuming. I drive truck so I have been working on it for about 2 months. If you have a hoist, some basic garage tools, and have ever pulled a motor you can do it. I have access to a welder and plasma cutter at work so that's been a big help
 
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Got her started tonight. Fired right up, then died. I bled the fuel, started right up and idled for about 1 min then ran out of fuel again and won't fire now. I keep bleeding and I get air every time I turn out the bleed screw. I put on a new pump and filter and I can hear the fuel going through the system when I'm done cranking. I think the bleed screw is stripped now but it doesn't bubble when it's closed and I prime the pump. I would think it should at least stumble a little bit when I crank it over, but nothing. The fuel shutoff is working also. Any ideas would be very helpfull. By the way, I ran 1/4'' rubber fuel lines and made my own pickup and the pump pulls lots of fuel when primed, could the pump still be bad?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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I think for 1 thing you're gonna need bigger than 1/4 inch line. Stock line on a 12 valve is 3/8. Sounds like you're sucking air in 1 of the fittings also.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Thanks, I do have 3/8 on the feed side, forgot to mention that. I'm hoping it's the low pressure bleeder on the banjo bolt. I used two hose clamps on every fitting to try and aviod air. I'll try the banjo bolt first then move to the tank, thanks for the quick rep tiremann

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Found the prob, pump housing is cracked at the inlet, my fault. The pump inlet turned out to be 12mm x 1.5 and the 93 quick connect fitting is 3/8 pipe (oops!!) Goin with electric pump, anybody find a 12mm x 1.5 barbed fitting to replace the banjo or is there another trick I'm missing
 

Last edited by timdale; Jul 12, 2010 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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vulcanperformance.com has all the fittings youll need.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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Thanks Dr Evil, I cut the pump to filter line and put on a 5/16 comp fitting with a 1/8 pipe thread and used a brass barb fitting
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 06:15 AM
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Put on a 9psi elect, still no start. I bled the intake line, checked the return, all had fuel, no air. As soon as I cracked the no 1 injector in fired right up, thank god. Runs like a champ!
 
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 09:51 AM
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Good to hear,,,,
 
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