95 Chevy 2500 questions
#12
putting another 6.5l in it would definitely be the cheap easy route that makes the most sense. a ford motor i wouldnt even attempt. but like 2muchjunk said, use the money, buy a dodge, and drive the **** out of it. you cant beat a cummins and its cheaper easier and more reliable to buy the truck it came in
#13
putting another 6.5l in it would definitely be the cheap easy route that makes the most sense. a ford motor i wouldnt even attempt. but like 2muchjunk said, use the money, buy a dodge, and drive the **** out of it. you cant beat a cummins and its cheaper easier and more reliable to buy the truck it came in
#14
holy crap son!!! $20k?!? Glad I have a Ford
Everything in mine I spent $3200, with about $2200 after I sold back my old engine and trans, and donor truck Dana 80.
1) I got my 96 5 speed donor truck for $2200, but was listed for $2500. I think $1500-3000 should nab you a lower mileage engine.
2) Yes if you have the money and time for it
3) Craigslist is the first place I would look
4) Not really. It can make a little extra, but you'll have to change pretty much everything to make big power........ so no.
Ive seen in done, in a old Dodge (?powerwagon?) SUV. Its on youtube
But yes it is a heavy engine, but they sound awesome. I think a 4v53 is a much more feasible swap
Everything in mine I spent $3200, with about $2200 after I sold back my old engine and trans, and donor truck Dana 80.
Well im new here my names preston and i was gonna ask you guys a few questions. I bought a 95 chevy 6.5 with an awesome body and a new transmission but guess what? The motor is locked up tighter that a chastity belt on the preachers daughter. But anyway the questions i was gonna ask are:
1 how much am i looking at to get a decent 12 valve
2 is it worth it to go ahead and just replace the 6.5 with a 12 valve
3 is there a good place to find a 12 valve diesel
4 does the 6.5 have any possible way of making big power
Folks i thank you for your imput on this. Im on the fence right now as far as what to do goes i got a dang good deal on the truck (1500 dollars) and i have a source for the 6.5 motors but from what i gather from driving them and listening to people talk all they are is a big rolling turd. My reference for the turd comment is a listing on golsn.com for 97 GMC 6.5 turdo diesel lmao
1 how much am i looking at to get a decent 12 valve
2 is it worth it to go ahead and just replace the 6.5 with a 12 valve
3 is there a good place to find a 12 valve diesel
4 does the 6.5 have any possible way of making big power
Folks i thank you for your imput on this. Im on the fence right now as far as what to do goes i got a dang good deal on the truck (1500 dollars) and i have a source for the 6.5 motors but from what i gather from driving them and listening to people talk all they are is a big rolling turd. My reference for the turd comment is a listing on golsn.com for 97 GMC 6.5 turdo diesel lmao
2) Yes if you have the money and time for it
3) Craigslist is the first place I would look
4) Not really. It can make a little extra, but you'll have to change pretty much everything to make big power........ so no.
But yes it is a heavy engine, but they sound awesome. I think a 4v53 is a much more feasible swap
#15
The only way its worth it to do a swap, is if you love the OBS trucks.
I love my 97, thats why I'm doing my swap, LB7.
If you want power, without dumping tons of money, buy a newer truck.
I'm glad I have gotten into the mess of doing the swap, but I'll never do another...
And I won't have 20k in it till I'm done, but I'll have about 10k tied up till I'm done. Once I sell some parts I'm not using I hope to have it done for between 6 and 8k.
The amount of money you put in depends on how much you can do on your own. That means confidence in your fabricating abilities as well as wiring, if you don't have a complete harness.
My .02
I love my 97, thats why I'm doing my swap, LB7.
If you want power, without dumping tons of money, buy a newer truck.
I'm glad I have gotten into the mess of doing the swap, but I'll never do another...
And I won't have 20k in it till I'm done, but I'll have about 10k tied up till I'm done. Once I sell some parts I'm not using I hope to have it done for between 6 and 8k.
The amount of money you put in depends on how much you can do on your own. That means confidence in your fabricating abilities as well as wiring, if you don't have a complete harness.
My .02
#16
#18
2muchjunk is right, I love my 97, so I made a choice... Its all about how attached you are to something, whether it be a truck, the body style.... Or maybe you just want to be cool
Spending money because you have a truck body and trans is not a good reason to get involved in a custom swap. My advice to you, unless you have a good reason to swap it, would be to part the sucker out.
If you just have this insatiable urge to do something completely unreasonable then go buy a wrecked donor truck and pull a newer CR cummins, better yet a dmax and really have some fun
Besides, no one get mad at me for this, with the common rail systems and the tuning software available, you can have an 6-800 hp daily driver thats clean as a whistle. Try doing that with a 12 valve, not saying it can't be done, but as soon as you start building real power, you lose drivability on a mechanical engine...
Spending money because you have a truck body and trans is not a good reason to get involved in a custom swap. My advice to you, unless you have a good reason to swap it, would be to part the sucker out.
If you just have this insatiable urge to do something completely unreasonable then go buy a wrecked donor truck and pull a newer CR cummins, better yet a dmax and really have some fun
Besides, no one get mad at me for this, with the common rail systems and the tuning software available, you can have an 6-800 hp daily driver thats clean as a whistle. Try doing that with a 12 valve, not saying it can't be done, but as soon as you start building real power, you lose drivability on a mechanical engine...
#19
#20
Besides, no one get mad at me for this, with the common rail systems and the tuning software available, you can have an 6-800 hp daily driver thats clean as a whistle. Try doing that with a 12 valve, not saying it can't be done, but as soon as you start building real power, you lose drivability on a mechanical engine...
For most people, the 12v will be much easier and cheaper to swap in. Also I think its alot easier and cheaper to get a 12v to 600hp vs a CR. Free tuning and timing on a 12v, cheaper injectors, no lift pump upgrade needed, and no upgraded injection pump needed. Turbo, studs, tranny mods and everything else will be about the same. from a 12v to a CR an upgraded CP3 will be $15-1800, lift pump $500, and a Smarty is about $700. So if you're shooting for about 5-600hp, you can bet on spending an extra $2700-3000.
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