I got started on my Ford/Cummins swap about 2 months ago, and thought it would just fall into place. WRONG!! I started with a 1984 F350 CC 4 X 4 dually and a gas suckin' 460. Plenty of power, but if I left it running at the gas pumps,, it would never fill up. I use my truck in my construction business, but 7MPG just ain't gonna get it. Beside,,, nothing like the sound of a Cummins!

I bought a '90 Cummins 5.9 and a Getrag 360, and started building mounts. I've only had this thing in and out maybe,,,,,,,,,,,, 1000 times or so. I'm finally to the "put it together" stage of my swap, and I can't wait. I've tried to take pics as I worked on it, but once I would get started, I would forget the camera was laying on the steam cleaner, only 10 feet away.

My wife has been a big help in the swap, and isn't afraid of getting her hands dirty. Sometimes, I think she is more excited than I am.

Here's a few pics of the engine removal,, the Cummins,, and the engine mounts I built. I can only post 10 pics at a time, so I have more to come.

 

Here's a few more pics of my swap. I found that the Ford engine and all the drivetrain isn't centered up as I has ASSumed. It is offset about 1 5/8" to the passengers side, so I got to build a second set of motor mounts. It sits in place now just like it was born there.

I had to cut the original throttle bracket, to clear the '96 vacuum/power steering pump. I added an offset to the bottom of the bracket to be able to bolt it back in place on the block. A bushing, and a brass 90 and the Ford oil pressure sending unit is in place. Factory guages should work now.

I was able to use the original Ford transmission crossmember with a little modificaton and it bolted up to the Getrag mount. It might need a bit more modifying to clear the front driveshaft, but that is a few weeks away.

I am using a Dana 24 divorced transfer case, and built a crossmember from 7" C-channel to avoid any flex that it might have. (upside down in pic) I was able to get a seal/gasket kit from Greg's Bronco Graveyard for the Dana 24. I hear the Dana is comparable in strength to the NP205. We will see how it hold up to a Cummins. I used a holesaw to cut holes in the floor to access the top of the frame so I could drill holes for the crossmember. I will insert rubber firewall plugs to seal the floor off, once the crossmember is in place.

Finally,, I painted the frame black (Rustolium Professional), and the firewall white acrylic, and I'm about ready to put the engine in for the last time. I held the engine forward an inch or two, so the Getrag shifter will hit the original hole in the floor. I don't know if I will be using the Cummins fan, or an electric fan now, but either will be fine with me. Hope to have everything bolted in by the weekend, then the front clip goes back on, and time for hoses and wiring,,,,,,,,,,,

 

Looking great!!! Keep up the good work!

 

You have to have that engine as far back as possible to use the stock fan. Looks like a real nice job you're doing.

 

Thanks,,, I kinda thougth it might be too far forward to use the stock fan, but using the existing hole in the floor is a good tradeoff I thought. I left enough room that I just can get the back valve cover off if I need to.

I've been working about 8 days a week (ok,, maybe closer to 7) for a while now,,, so I haven't had much time to put it together, but I think this weekend I should get a few things done. Just trying to take some time to go over the little details as I have the chance, rather than waiting until the engine and tranny are bolted in and have to work around them.

 

Finally got a little work done today, and I do mean "little". The engine and tranny are bolted in now. I was going to move the Cummins throttle linkage back and use the Ford throttle cable, but decided there had to be an easier way. The Ford cable is 23" on all gas V8s in '84, but the 300 6 cyl. uses a 31.5 inch cable. Should work out with alot less fabrication. I just picked it up tonight, so tomorrow, that should be done. I have my slave cylinder now, so hopefully, the clutch will be working tomorrow. I'm going to leave the front clip off until I have alot of the little things done under the hood, cause it is so much easier to reach things standing up.

I've ordered some of my parts online from Rock Auto, and Clearly Auto, and so far, out of 4 or 5 parts ordered, they all were MADE IN USA . AND,, the price was 30 -60 % less than the price at Napa or Advance Auto. Not enough MADE IN USA around these days.

 

I had a chance this weekend to get a little more done on my Cummins project. The throttle cable is hooked up now, and the Ford 300 - 6cyl. cable worked out great. I welded the throttle attachment tab from the 460 to the Cummins bracket, and it works great. No problem hitting WOT.

Power steering hose wasn't quite so easy. I ended up using the Ford hose, and attached the pump end of a Dodge hose to it with a compression fitting. I had to heat the tubing and bend it a little to clear the motor mounts. I tried to find a shop in my area that could make one from scratch, but no luck.

I pulled the timing cover and checked the KDP. Looked good, but I secured it just to be on the safe side. Gave me the chance to put in a new front crank seal.

I set the front clip back on for the day, and was able to get a top radiator hose to fit using the Ford radiator. The bottom hose will take a bit more work, but hope to get to it this week. I set the engine a couple inches away from the firewall, so my only option for cooling is an electric fan. Does it make a difference if it is a pusher or a puller?? Does it move the same air? I will be putting the front clip back on this week for the final time. Time to start the wiring.

I figured as long as the truck is in pieces,, might be a good chance to go through anything that might need replaced. I changed front brakes, rotors, and calipers this past weekend. Sway bar bushings need a little attention while I'm in there.

I'm hoping to use air cylinder(s) to shift the Dana transfer case and avoid having a t-case a shifter sticking through the floor. I have one on my dump truck to engage the Chelsae PTO. Should work on the same principle. (I hope) I will take pics when I get it all mounted up.

Fuel tank is back on, and new lines from the engine to the tank. 3/8" supply, and 5/16" return. All is hooked up except for the return line. I'm not familiar with the Cummins engines or the rotary pump, and I don't see where it goes. I didn't pull the engine from the donor truck, so I didn't get the chance to look things over. HELP,,,,

 

I got back to the conversion today. I have the transfer case mounted,,,,,, again. It hung too low, and the driveshaft angle was way off, so I had to add a body lift, and mount the crossmember on top of the frame. Should make things much easier this way.


I was able to get the front clip back on and bolted up, the radiator mounted, and the fans test fitted. With the engine sitting a couple inches from the firewall, I wasn't able to use the stock Cummins fan. I bought two 12" pushers to go in the grille. This, along with the oversize radiator should keep it cool. Not sure what it is out of, but they had to modify the bottom of the core support to hold it in place


For anyone that has done the Ford conversion, did you use the Ford solenoid, or just take the wiring straight to the Cummins starter? I had planned on using the Ford solenoid, but changing it to the drivers fender. Good idea or bad?

Hopefully, I will get to hear it run in the next week or so. It's all bolted up and fueled up. Hopefully, the wiring won't take long. I did noticed in the pics, that it sat around long enough that the engine is dusty.


Planning on getting a few more things done tomorrow.

 

Very nice Mark.


Good call on the Dowel Pin.

 

I got most of my wiring taken care of today. I used the Cummins alternator, and a Ford electronic voltage regulator, and wired it according to Ford/Cummins instructions. I mounted the Ford solenoid on the drivers fender to make the starter wire a bit shorter.

QUESTION: How do I wire in the fuel shutoff solenoid? I assume it needs 12v. to open and allow the fuel to the pump, and cut the power and the engine shuts down?? Do I need to add a relay to it? The wire I took off it was maybe a single 14 or 16 ga, so it can't require much power. I'm planning on using the wire that originally ran to the coil to power it. I've worked on gas engines all my life, but my knowlege of the Cummins engines is really limited. I would appreciate any help I can get.

THANKS,,,,,,