Engine Alignment and Spacing
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Diesel Fan
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 82
Likes: 2
From: Le Roy, WV
Engine Alignment and Spacing
I'm not sure if anyone else has questions about how to align the engine in a Ford/Cummins swap, but I do. I had always assumed that the Cummins would be lined up with the top of the valve covers in the center of the engine compartment. But, then the fan is offset about 2 - 3 inches towards the drivers side of the engine, making it off-center to the radiator. Of course, then there is the crankshaft centerline.
I built mounts and had the engine/tranny bolted in trying to align the crank to true center of the frame, when I realized the 460 I pulled out was not lined up dead center. It was offset approx. 1 5/8" to the passengers side. This offset continued through the carrier bearing, and also in the rear differental. The easy fix was to break out the Millwaukee metal circular saw and fab up a new set of mounts. Didn't take long, but that is a subject I hadn't seen on here before. I could have left it to the drivers side, and been just fine, except that the front driveshaft comes REALLY CLOSE to the slave cylinder mount on the bellhousing.
As for my distance from the firewall, I set the engine out just far enough that I could get the Getrag shifter through the original hole in the floor. The back valve cover just will come off for valve adjustment. The original Ford tranny crossmember went right back in, and worked great to support the tail of the Getrag... only had to move it back about 6 inches or so. Might end up with an electric fan, but to keep from hammering on the firewall or cutting a new hole in my floor, it will be well worth it.
Hopefully, this will help out any newbies getting ready to do a Ford/Cummins swap. I'm learning the hard way, but enjoying every step of it. I will be posting pics of my swap soon.
I built mounts and had the engine/tranny bolted in trying to align the crank to true center of the frame, when I realized the 460 I pulled out was not lined up dead center. It was offset approx. 1 5/8" to the passengers side. This offset continued through the carrier bearing, and also in the rear differental. The easy fix was to break out the Millwaukee metal circular saw and fab up a new set of mounts. Didn't take long, but that is a subject I hadn't seen on here before. I could have left it to the drivers side, and been just fine, except that the front driveshaft comes REALLY CLOSE to the slave cylinder mount on the bellhousing.
As for my distance from the firewall, I set the engine out just far enough that I could get the Getrag shifter through the original hole in the floor. The back valve cover just will come off for valve adjustment. The original Ford tranny crossmember went right back in, and worked great to support the tail of the Getrag... only had to move it back about 6 inches or so. Might end up with an electric fan, but to keep from hammering on the firewall or cutting a new hole in my floor, it will be well worth it.
Hopefully, this will help out any newbies getting ready to do a Ford/Cummins swap. I'm learning the hard way, but enjoying every step of it. I will be posting pics of my swap soon.
post some pics lets see it
