Cherokee OM617 Swap
Benzer1,
I am nearing completion of an om617 swap in a 93 cherokee... 4x4 labs conversion, Advanced adapters, ax-15 tranny... anyway i'm trying to play around with how/where to mount the engine to clear suspension/steering components. I would like to see some pictures of your custom pitman arm drop. I'm afraid that no amount of suspension lift is going to solve the interference with the track bar. But I have been told that the greatest drop pitman arm available has a 4" drop compared to stock. I will try to post some pictures of my progress so far.
Also, how did you run your exhaust? I am at a loss for ideas on exhaust routing because the 4x4 labs adapter is huge and uses a unique starter which gives me minimal clearance between engine/bellhousing and upper passenger control arm...
Thanks in advance
I am nearing completion of an om617 swap in a 93 cherokee... 4x4 labs conversion, Advanced adapters, ax-15 tranny... anyway i'm trying to play around with how/where to mount the engine to clear suspension/steering components. I would like to see some pictures of your custom pitman arm drop. I'm afraid that no amount of suspension lift is going to solve the interference with the track bar. But I have been told that the greatest drop pitman arm available has a 4" drop compared to stock. I will try to post some pictures of my progress so far.
Also, how did you run your exhaust? I am at a loss for ideas on exhaust routing because the 4x4 labs adapter is huge and uses a unique starter which gives me minimal clearance between engine/bellhousing and upper passenger control arm...
Thanks in advance
Happy Holidays!!
John
Drove the Jeep around quite a bit this morning, runs really good. No noticeable vibrations from the torque converter setup or anything else, ran like it did before the failure. I still need to install the oil pressure sending unit, will probably do that this afternoon. So far, so good!!!!!
John
John
Way cool!! I am really interested in your long term results, as it looks like I am going to be using the same vintage 84-86 due to the emission restrictions here. I plan on using it mostly for my dd so I look foreward to mileage updates etc. Hopefully gear changes wont be ness. Thanks for the new pics!
John
Very cool too see progress!!!
A few thoughts that come to mind:
Someone mention using a rack and pinion for the steering. Though yes, I did that in mine, I do not recommend it. Solid axle front ends and r&p do not mix well. It makes for some really funky steering when you are not on smooth surfaces (yes you can train yourself to anticipate it, but it is something I will not do again). I never was overly confident that a good bump on the highway wasn't going to tear the r&p off of the cross member I made, or bend the tie rods.
O.D. transmissions... I remember reading some folks posting in other threads that when swapping in manuals with O.D., they were very disappointed in the motor's ability to handle O.D. They seem to like that 1:1 high gear better. Can anyone give the definite yes/no on that?
What rear end ratio are you running? Keep in mind what the factory mb #'s were, and tire diameters. When I stepped up to a 31" tire with the jeep 4:10 rear end, it put me at more than 90% accurate on the speedo and left me with more than 85mph on the wide open road without feeling like I was anywhere near the top end of the motor. Correct me if I am wrong, I think the 300SD had like a 3.07:1 rear and 185 or 195/70-14 tires. 300D turbos were close, if not the same as the SD's ratio.
Exhaust: If the strait pipe is a bit too loud for you/your neighbors, I ended up reusing a stock mb resonator can in line with my strait pipe. It cut out the raspy strait pipe sound without destroying that wonderful turbo song. A buddy of mine used an agricultural "tractor muffler" (looked like a glass-pack or cherry bomb) and it sounded really good. Well, actually, it made it sound like a city bus, which "I" thought sounded really good. Opinions may vary,
.
I've got my rebuild in the back of my mind, and slowly taking notes on everyone's successes and failures. This is making the trial and error so much easier to swallow. I wish I had this kind of feedback when I was building my MJ. Guys on this site are so supportive! I've been hanging around Pirate4x4 a great deal and leeching off the wealth of information there in terms of jeep info, suspension and front ends, etc. (until it turns into a flame-fest). I think I have finally made up my mind on what will be incorporated into my next build (91YJ).
Keep on keepin' on!
A few thoughts that come to mind:
Someone mention using a rack and pinion for the steering. Though yes, I did that in mine, I do not recommend it. Solid axle front ends and r&p do not mix well. It makes for some really funky steering when you are not on smooth surfaces (yes you can train yourself to anticipate it, but it is something I will not do again). I never was overly confident that a good bump on the highway wasn't going to tear the r&p off of the cross member I made, or bend the tie rods.
O.D. transmissions... I remember reading some folks posting in other threads that when swapping in manuals with O.D., they were very disappointed in the motor's ability to handle O.D. They seem to like that 1:1 high gear better. Can anyone give the definite yes/no on that?
What rear end ratio are you running? Keep in mind what the factory mb #'s were, and tire diameters. When I stepped up to a 31" tire with the jeep 4:10 rear end, it put me at more than 90% accurate on the speedo and left me with more than 85mph on the wide open road without feeling like I was anywhere near the top end of the motor. Correct me if I am wrong, I think the 300SD had like a 3.07:1 rear and 185 or 195/70-14 tires. 300D turbos were close, if not the same as the SD's ratio.
Exhaust: If the strait pipe is a bit too loud for you/your neighbors, I ended up reusing a stock mb resonator can in line with my strait pipe. It cut out the raspy strait pipe sound without destroying that wonderful turbo song. A buddy of mine used an agricultural "tractor muffler" (looked like a glass-pack or cherry bomb) and it sounded really good. Well, actually, it made it sound like a city bus, which "I" thought sounded really good. Opinions may vary,
.I've got my rebuild in the back of my mind, and slowly taking notes on everyone's successes and failures. This is making the trial and error so much easier to swallow. I wish I had this kind of feedback when I was building my MJ. Guys on this site are so supportive! I've been hanging around Pirate4x4 a great deal and leeching off the wealth of information there in terms of jeep info, suspension and front ends, etc. (until it turns into a flame-fest). I think I have finally made up my mind on what will be incorporated into my next build (91YJ).
Keep on keepin' on!
Last edited by vwdieseljunkie; Dec 21, 2009 at 07:41 AM. Reason: forgot to subscribe!
Hi vwdieseljunkie. I have been looking at your pics of the comanche, nice! What trans do you plan on with the yj? I would like to here more, I am starting down this road too. The more info the better! Thanks in advance.
Very cool too see progress!!!
A few thoughts that come to mind:
Someone mention using a rack and pinion for the steering. Though yes, I did that in mine, I do not recommend it. Solid axle front ends and r&p do not mix well. It makes for some really funky steering when you are not on smooth surfaces (yes you can train yourself to anticipate it, but it is something I will not do again). I never was overly confident that a good bump on the highway wasn't going to tear the r&p off of the cross member I made, or bend the tie rods.
O.D. transmissions... I remember reading some folks posting in other threads that when swapping in manuals with O.D., they were very disappointed in the motor's ability to handle O.D. They seem to like that 1:1 high gear better. Can anyone give the definite yes/no on that?
What rear end ratio are you running? Keep in mind what the factory mb #'s were, and tire diameters. When I stepped up to a 31" tire with the jeep 4:10 rear end, it put me at more than 90% accurate on the speedo and left me with more than 85mph on the wide open road without feeling like I was anywhere near the top end of the motor. Correct me if I am wrong, I think the 300SD had like a 3.07:1 rear and 185 or 195/70-14 tires. 300D turbos were close, if not the same as the SD's ratio.
Exhaust: If the strait pipe is a bit too loud for you/your neighbors, I ended up reusing a stock mb resonator can in line with my strait pipe. It cut out the raspy strait pipe sound without destroying that wonderful turbo song. A buddy of mine used an agricultural "tractor muffler" (looked like a glass-pack or cherry bomb) and it sounded really good. Well, actually, it made it sound like a city bus, which "I" thought sounded really good. Opinions may vary,
.
I've got my rebuild in the back of my mind, and slowly taking notes on everyone's successes and failures. This is making the trial and error so much easier to swallow. I wish I had this kind of feedback when I was building my MJ. Guys on this site are so supportive! I've been hanging around Pirate4x4 a great deal and leeching off the wealth of information there in terms of jeep info, suspension and front ends, etc. (until it turns into a flame-fest). I think I have finally made up my mind on what will be incorporated into my next build (91YJ).
Keep on keepin' on!
A few thoughts that come to mind:
Someone mention using a rack and pinion for the steering. Though yes, I did that in mine, I do not recommend it. Solid axle front ends and r&p do not mix well. It makes for some really funky steering when you are not on smooth surfaces (yes you can train yourself to anticipate it, but it is something I will not do again). I never was overly confident that a good bump on the highway wasn't going to tear the r&p off of the cross member I made, or bend the tie rods.
O.D. transmissions... I remember reading some folks posting in other threads that when swapping in manuals with O.D., they were very disappointed in the motor's ability to handle O.D. They seem to like that 1:1 high gear better. Can anyone give the definite yes/no on that?
What rear end ratio are you running? Keep in mind what the factory mb #'s were, and tire diameters. When I stepped up to a 31" tire with the jeep 4:10 rear end, it put me at more than 90% accurate on the speedo and left me with more than 85mph on the wide open road without feeling like I was anywhere near the top end of the motor. Correct me if I am wrong, I think the 300SD had like a 3.07:1 rear and 185 or 195/70-14 tires. 300D turbos were close, if not the same as the SD's ratio.
Exhaust: If the strait pipe is a bit too loud for you/your neighbors, I ended up reusing a stock mb resonator can in line with my strait pipe. It cut out the raspy strait pipe sound without destroying that wonderful turbo song. A buddy of mine used an agricultural "tractor muffler" (looked like a glass-pack or cherry bomb) and it sounded really good. Well, actually, it made it sound like a city bus, which "I" thought sounded really good. Opinions may vary,
.I've got my rebuild in the back of my mind, and slowly taking notes on everyone's successes and failures. This is making the trial and error so much easier to swallow. I wish I had this kind of feedback when I was building my MJ. Guys on this site are so supportive! I've been hanging around Pirate4x4 a great deal and leeching off the wealth of information there in terms of jeep info, suspension and front ends, etc. (until it turns into a flame-fest). I think I have finally made up my mind on what will be incorporated into my next build (91YJ).
Keep on keepin' on!
Merry Christmas!!
John
Holy Cr@p John, I just looked at the picture of that pitman arm, that is scarier stuff than my booger welded r&p cross member. Was the pitman cast steel, or cast iron? What size tire are you running? I would be very careful with that, and keep my eyes open for a different alternative (but then again, I don't know for sure just how much pressure that pitman arm is actually under) I just keep thinking about the "what if's".
Since your jeep was originally the 2.8, I'm guessing you have somewhere around the 3.5:1 rears (+/- .25). I don't think the 6-cyls got 4.1:1 rears (maybe someone can correct me). That should put you being fairly comfortable with a 28-30" tire (235/75-15) Little bigger for highway cruise, little smaller for spunk off the line. Remember, the wider and taller you go, the more strain on the steering.
I was talking with my buddy last night that helped me with my build back in '04, and when I told him about your torque converter issue, his immediate response was that either the compression stroke of the diesel was too much for the little tabs, or that it wasn't centered. He reminded me that you can't compare diesel HP to gas HP, because it's like comparing a impact wrench to an air ratchet. (or a hammer drill to a regular drill)
I was hoping to see someone chime in with their opinion on the O.D., I'll see if I can't find where I read that. It was a knife in the gut at first, but I also remember what it was like when we had the om617 in our boat, and with a large prop, cruising at about 3k rpm and always under load, the turbo would get absolutely cherry red (that's not to say it doesn't do that in the mercedes, as I've never been able to see the turbo while cruising the highway,
)
My biggest hanging point so far has been that 5-link jeep front end vs. the oil pan. I think I have made up my mind to make my next build IFS. I got flamed pretty hard when I mentioned making a jeep IFS on the pirate board last year, and now there's a guy putting the ford ttb dana 50 in a jeep and they think it's the coolest thing since sliced bread. I guess I just don't put enough bling into my projects,
. But, at least I can watch his progress and learn. My thoughts for now are to either use the dana 35 ttb (explorer/ranger) or dana 44 ttb (f150/f.s. bronco), and have the cross member forward of the oil pan (making it basically a "mid-engine"). I'll make up my mind one day.
Since your jeep was originally the 2.8, I'm guessing you have somewhere around the 3.5:1 rears (+/- .25). I don't think the 6-cyls got 4.1:1 rears (maybe someone can correct me). That should put you being fairly comfortable with a 28-30" tire (235/75-15) Little bigger for highway cruise, little smaller for spunk off the line. Remember, the wider and taller you go, the more strain on the steering.
I was talking with my buddy last night that helped me with my build back in '04, and when I told him about your torque converter issue, his immediate response was that either the compression stroke of the diesel was too much for the little tabs, or that it wasn't centered. He reminded me that you can't compare diesel HP to gas HP, because it's like comparing a impact wrench to an air ratchet. (or a hammer drill to a regular drill)
I was hoping to see someone chime in with their opinion on the O.D., I'll see if I can't find where I read that. It was a knife in the gut at first, but I also remember what it was like when we had the om617 in our boat, and with a large prop, cruising at about 3k rpm and always under load, the turbo would get absolutely cherry red (that's not to say it doesn't do that in the mercedes, as I've never been able to see the turbo while cruising the highway,
)My biggest hanging point so far has been that 5-link jeep front end vs. the oil pan. I think I have made up my mind to make my next build IFS. I got flamed pretty hard when I mentioned making a jeep IFS on the pirate board last year, and now there's a guy putting the ford ttb dana 50 in a jeep and they think it's the coolest thing since sliced bread. I guess I just don't put enough bling into my projects,
. But, at least I can watch his progress and learn. My thoughts for now are to either use the dana 35 ttb (explorer/ranger) or dana 44 ttb (f150/f.s. bronco), and have the cross member forward of the oil pan (making it basically a "mid-engine"). I'll make up my mind one day.


