Cherokee OM617 Swap
Diesel Wrench
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 33
From: Vancouver Wa
Hey thanks John, that helps alot! I was overthinking it, trying to use the stock linkage on top of the motor. Guess I'll just rip it off and start over, can't wait to get all this little crap finished up so I can make som real progress!
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 274
Likes: 7
From: Kent, WA
Here are a couple of pics of my setup. I used the carb TV bracket off the 2.8 and cut it smaller. I drilled new holes in it so it would mount properly to the top of the engine. The TV cable has a "ratcheting" adjustment. You normally push it all the way in and then push the accelerator all the way to the floor to set it. The TV cable should be at full extension with the engine at WOT. The angle of opening is critical too, I tried to get mine as close to a gasser setup as I could (a smooth straight pull on the cable). The TV cable on the 2.8 700R4 was too short to reach where I mounted my bracket. I used a TV cable from a 200R4 I already had. It's originally for a 1985 Cadillac Fleetwood with a 4.1 engine. I thought about taking mine to a tranny shop and have them check the line pressure and what not to make sure I adjusted it right. My trans shifts right at 15, 30, 40-50, depending on acceleration, so I must have it pretty good. I had a homemade TV bracket on my Caddy hearse too, I never had a problem. I just made sure the cable was at full travel at WOT.
Hope this helps!!
John
Hope this helps!!
John
Just let me know.
Thread Starter
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
NICE! I gather that the 200R4 cable is longer, but is the exposed part of the cable longer too? I have the one from the 2.8 / 700R4 (Blazer) too, but found that although the cable overall was long enough, the exposed part from the bracket/adjuster to where it attaches to the throttle is too short. I shortened the shell (took a piece out of it), but I'm not totally satisfied with how it turned out. If you still have the old TV cable from your 2.8 / 700R4 combination, what would you want for it? I think I've come up with a better way to modify it to suit my application...
Just let me know.
Just let me know.
And it was cracked where it connects to the trans, you could see the steel wire.
John
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 274
Likes: 7
From: Kent, WA
I already threw the 2.8 cable out. One of the tabs on the square part was broken off, and the plastic fitting on the end was damaged, it would not stay attached to the throttle linkage.
And it was cracked where it connects to the trans, you could see the steel wire.
John
And it was cracked where it connects to the trans, you could see the steel wire.
John
Last edited by CheaperJeeper; May 3, 2010 at 08:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
NICE! I gather that the 200R4 cable is longer, but is the exposed part of the cable longer too? I have the one from the 2.8 / 700R4 (Blazer) too, but found that although the cable overall was long enough, the exposed part from the bracket/adjuster to where it attaches to the throttle is too short. I shortened the shell (took a piece out of it), but I'm not totally satisfied with how it turned out. If you still have the old TV cable from your 2.8 / 700R4 combination, what would you want for it? I think I've come up with a better way to modify it to suit my application...
Just let me know.
Just let me know.
John
Thread Starter
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Trans
I wired up the lockup tonight. I bought a 12 volt relay with NC contacts. I ran the coil voltage from the brake light wire. I ran 12 volts from accessory through the NC contacts to the purple wire on the trans harness "terminal A". I grounded the other wire"terminal D" to the trans case with a ring terminal to one of the pan bolts. I got lucky ,the '85 trans I have only locks up in fourth gear, no need for a toggle switch or a controller. There is always 12 volts to the trans unless the brake is depressed. It works good. I did take the Jeep to a trans shop to verify the throttle valve cable adjustment. They also did a line pressure test, everything is good, they did not adjust anything.
They did say the lockup is important on the 700R4, it helps cool the trans because the lockup reduces heat, and routes more fluid through the cooler.Plus it saves fuel. They said without lockup, the clutches would fail sooner. Just FYI for you 700R4 users.
I have gone about 300 miles on 3/4 of a tank. I'm guessing the tank is about 18 gallons, not completely sure.
John
They did say the lockup is important on the 700R4, it helps cool the trans because the lockup reduces heat, and routes more fluid through the cooler.Plus it saves fuel. They said without lockup, the clutches would fail sooner. Just FYI for you 700R4 users.
I have gone about 300 miles on 3/4 of a tank. I'm guessing the tank is about 18 gallons, not completely sure.
John
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 274
Likes: 7
From: Kent, WA
I wired up the lockup tonight. I bought a 12 volt relay with NC contacts. I ran the coil voltage from the brake light wire. I ran 12 volts from accessory through the NC contacts to the purple wire on the trans harness "terminal A". I grounded the other wire"terminal D" to the trans case with a ring terminal to one of the pan bolts. I got lucky ,the '85 trans I have only locks up in fourth gear, no need for a toggle switch or a controller. There is always 12 volts to the trans unless the brake is depressed. It works good. I did take the Jeep to a trans shop to verify the throttle valve cable adjustment. They also did a line pressure test, everything is good, they did not adjust anything.
They did say the lockup is important on the 700R4, it helps cool the trans because the lockup reduces heat, and routes more fluid through the cooler.Plus it saves fuel. They said without lockup, the clutches would fail sooner. Just FYI for you 700R4 users.
They did say the lockup is important on the 700R4, it helps cool the trans because the lockup reduces heat, and routes more fluid through the cooler.Plus it saves fuel. They said without lockup, the clutches would fail sooner. Just FYI for you 700R4 users.
Most XJs came stock with a 21 gallon tank, though some of the earlier ones had a tank that holds just over 17 gallons. I've got the smaller tank in my '84 - because it came with the little 2.5 liter 4-popper. Guess they figured smaller motor/better mileage = no need to carry so much fuel...
Last edited by CheaperJeeper; May 11, 2010 at 10:01 PM.
Thread Starter
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
The lockup bogs the engine slightly at 45-50, but not too bad. 55 and up, it holds no problem.
The lockup is only in OD, it locks up a few seconds after going into fourth gear.
John
The lockup is only in OD, it locks up a few seconds after going into fourth gear.
John
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 274
Likes: 7
From: Kent, WA
If you're running 4.10s and stock rubber, then mine isn't going to see 4th gear very much. Your OM617 makes around 125 HP and 180 ft-lbs, My 4.3L V6 will only be pumping out around 100 HP and 170 ft-lbs initially without the turbo. If you have 4.10 gears and it bogs a little at 45 in 4th, mine will probably bog pretty bad at anything below 60-65. In which case the OD/lockup will be for highway cruising ONLY.
If you're running 3.55 gears and bogging a little, then I may be OK with my 4.10 gears and will get more use out of 4th. Once the turbo goes on and gets dialed in, I should be pushing about the same HP as you, and probably have ust a tad more torque. That's when 4th gear will start seeing more usage...
Thread Starter
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
That sounds great! I can't recall, are you running 4.10 axle gears or are they 3.55 gears? And still running stock sized wheels & tires, right?
If you're running 4.10s and stock rubber, then mine isn't going to see 4th gear very much. Your OM617 makes around 125 HP and 180 ft-lbs, My 4.3L V6 will only be pumping out around 100 HP and 170 ft-lbs initially without the turbo. If you have 4.10 gears and it bogs a little at 45 in 4th, mine will probably bog pretty bad at anything below 60-65. In which case the OD/lockup will be for highway cruising ONLY.
If you're running 3.55 gears and bogging a little, then I may be OK with my 4.10 gears and will get more use out of 4th. Once the turbo goes on and gets dialed in, I should be pushing about the same HP as you, and probably have ust a tad more torque. That's when 4th gear will start seeing more usage...
If you're running 4.10s and stock rubber, then mine isn't going to see 4th gear very much. Your OM617 makes around 125 HP and 180 ft-lbs, My 4.3L V6 will only be pumping out around 100 HP and 170 ft-lbs initially without the turbo. If you have 4.10 gears and it bogs a little at 45 in 4th, mine will probably bog pretty bad at anything below 60-65. In which case the OD/lockup will be for highway cruising ONLY.
If you're running 3.55 gears and bogging a little, then I may be OK with my 4.10 gears and will get more use out of 4th. Once the turbo goes on and gets dialed in, I should be pushing about the same HP as you, and probably have ust a tad more torque. That's when 4th gear will start seeing more usage...
John
