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The patient: 91 Mazda b2600i The donor: 1985 Dodge ram 50 with Mitsubishi 4d55t engine Oil pan and bellhousing that are required to fit G6(b2600i) engine out!
Here's my latest obsession: I'm putting this mitshubishi 4d55t in my Mazda b2600i. After finding out the truck I bought in November had a cracked head, I decided to make it a diesel.
The 87 and 88 Mazda b2600 came with the Mitsubishi 2.6 gas engine. This engine shares a bolt pattern with the diesel 4d55. So I located a bellhousing. Also needed an oil pan to put it in my 4x4 .
The input shaft in the mitsubishi appropriate bellhousing was 15mm shorter. I found this out when I bolted my bellhousing to my core Mazda transmission and tried to hook up the engine to it. The bellhousing was shorter than the Mazda one too. Research at the Mazda dealership showed me that there were 2 different part numbers for that shaft between 1987 and 1989 and up.
I had 2 options. Tear down the tranny and turn down 15mm of splines to the pilot shaft size and then shorten the pilot shaft by 15mm or create an adapter.
Original bad idea. I cut the \"flange" off the Mitsubishi transmission from the Dodge .I was going to see if I could get it milled down to 15mm and use it between bellhousing and engine...
I couldn't find a machine shop willing to mill the "flange" down for me.
so adapter attempt #2. Cutting the backside out of the 2600i bellhousing to make a spacer plate Spacer plate mounted to core transmission so grinding of face can take place, and the areas where the bolt heads rest are still the original height(needed to keep the bellhousing flush) and everything else on that side is below the bolt head locations. Transmission spacers 'plate'
I gotta say, that's unique. I mean, spacing the bellhousing out is a good approach. But cutting a chunk out of another bellhousing to do it? That's thinking outside the box.
I gotta say, that's unique. I mean, spacing the bellhousing out is a good approach. But cutting a chunk out of another bellhousing to do it? That's thinking outside the box.
Should work fine so long as it's straight.
I'm like 95% sure it'll be fine... I used a piece of flexible plastic as a feeler gauge around my input shaft and it was as centered as I could hope for I think. My whole thinking was "I should be able to make this work without machining it." I really wanted the spacer on the engine\bellhousing junction. Because that's where it made sense to me. But once I had the "flange" off the Mitsubishi transmission, I couldn't find a local machine shop to mill it for me. So I started thinking of how I could get it done without a machine shop. And I had already cut one transmission apart. Didn't seem look TOO odd a thing to hack up another one. I was already halfway to crazy town.
The engine is now in and bolted up, and the rough drafts of my mounts made. I've dropped my tank, dried it out, and taken out the high pressure fuel pump and installed a strainer and fuel hose, and reinstalled the tank. Installed my lift pump, wired it up, mounted my fuel filter and plumbed it all in, done all my electric radiator fan wiring, relocated my battery tray, got new cables made and run, got the alternator and oil and temp sensors rewired... Tomorrow I'll be installing the radiator and hoses, wiring up my glow plugs, and filling the engine with fluids and the tank with diesel.
Damn... you're getting **** done. Wish I could make that kind of progress...
I expect that your transmission spacer will be fine. I've seen some serious flywheel housing misalignment when I worked at a Cummins dealership 20+ years ago... and guys got away with it. I've seen several flywheel housings bolted on and the concentricity was never even checked. Could've been .060" out and they wouldn't have known. And never a come-back...
What kind of fuel mileage did those diesel rangers get?
MazdaBishi! Putting a 4655t in a Mazda b2600i
