i was looking at things wrong. the gas gauge is not incorrect, the way i moddified the fuel pick up is apparently not as low as it could go, so ill have to drop the tank again and work that out. the ps return line has been a leaking thru the hose. just old i guess so a new hose will go on monday

and as far a crankcase ventalation, i have just a little k&n looking filter on the valve cover but its spewwing fumes and oil droplets er`where. i tried routing it to the oil pan (like mercedesdiesel4x4 suggested) and it caused too much positive pressure and my valve cover gasket stared spewing. so ill need to put a catch can on. i guess ill be routing the outlet to the turbo intake and the drain back to the oil pan. gonna use that damn -6 port i just pulled the pan to install last night!

my vacuum pump too a complete **** on me yesterday, so i pulled it again a disassembled. found some random parts in the intake tube before the first check valve whatever. pulled them out and reinstalled, good so far.

and last, i have a random "runs like im towing a refrigerator" issue. runs like a dog, takes forever to spool up vibrates like a *****. then next time i get in, runs liked a raped ape

 

may need a new rack damper bolt.

 

whatever that is, i would hope the guys in sweden put one in.


so, the saga continues. mother effing oil leaks, omg. still working my way through them. i figured resealing everything before i but the engine would be good enuf. nope

also, monday, one of the dowel pins, from the engine to adapter plate, fell out and into the area between ap and flywheel. all kinds of banging around. just got done pulling everything off to get it out. i would suggest to anyone using the md4x4.com adapter, to peen the holes on the transmission side so they cant vibrate out

 

So far, I've been lucky on mine, no leaks other than the fuel return lines between injectors. I'm going to run it a while on the stand before I drop it in. Sure is a whole lot easier to fix leaks while its on the stand! LOL!

 

so an update. the oil seals in my t3/04 turbo finally gave up the ghost. looked like i was fogging for mosquitos. it was so bad i was scared it was going to catch on fire. i had a rebuild kit coming so saturday i pulled it and rebuilt. was doing great for a day and not the smoke is getting a little worse each day. wondering if the center section is just toast and its time for a new one. vavle cover seems to be leaking like a mo fo, so i guess i need to fix that. again. about two weeks ago i noticed a major oil leak and found a crack in the oil pan i got from md4x4.com it was in the side, near the dipstick hole. nothing hit it that i could see and i havent even taken it off road yet. pull the pan, again, and have my buddy weld it. reinstalled the front crank seal since i guess i knocked it out of place putting pan back in at some point. still need a ps pump pulley puller to reseal that guy. oh and im on my second muffler cause the first glass pack filled up w soot and sounded like **** in two days. so i installed a flowmaster 50 series, which is better, buti dont love it.

on to the good. this thing hauls ***

 

I was thinking about using a diesel tractor muffler on mine, So far I haven't had any leaks from the Mercedes 4x4 pan I have. Sux about having so many leaks. If my buddy will go over to his mechanic and pickup my turbo, I will probably go ahead and build it while I got it off, but I have a feeling he must owe the mechanic money, because he has been in no hurry to get it. Hopefully in a couple of weekends I will have mine in.

 

so i guess its time for an update.

********** still runs hot idle-195ish interstate 215-ish. **** if i know
added a boost controller and pushing 20 psi. just WOW!
just started rebuilding a set of injectors, with new nozzles, need a couple fittings for the pop tester then im a go
i still think my head gasket is leaking. ill set up some time to knock that out
my lift pump took a poop on me thursday so had to swap that out with a used one and rebuild kit has been ordered.
have started installing an electric vacuum pump so i can ditch the engine driven unit. have to work some mojo with the engine kill solenoids so there isnt a constant vacuum leak.
wish i could find a quieter muffler
throw out bearing is getting noisey
alternator charges flawlessly.
i swapped out the stock rubber trans mount for poly, since the engine mounts are poly. the vibes were a bit worse, but i bumped the idle up about 100 rpm and fixed that.
buying new piping to reroute the lower rad hose. goes right in front of the crank pulley and is just in the way.
i dont have the fuel mpg i want yet. hopefully i see some improvement after the injectors and vac pump delete. been thinking about and electric fuel pump also and bypassing the lift pump. thats a few hundred $$ and ill need to be convinced its worth it.
last time i went of road, i smoked the **** out of the luk clutch. its working ok now but im curious how much life i took off it
still need to reroute and clean up the engine bay.

 

I swapped out the injectors for rebuilt units And it's been nailing real bad since I've gone as far as putting the old ones back in, still nailing. Idk

Got the electric Vac pump, from an audi, installed and working flawlessly. Motor driven Vac pump will be gutted soon.

Took her to "jeepin with Judd" last weekend and got on the trails and obstacle course and the little diesel did amazing Walked around, barely off idle on the advanced trails..

The oil filter reallocation plate from md4x4 kinda sucks with the 1/2 npt threads. The fittings bottom out on the block and end up leaking I welded some jic fittings on a new plate I made and will be swapping that out soon

Routed the valve cover vent to intake before the turbo, using 1/2 line. Seems to be doing the job

Still happy with the swap

 

since i couldnt find a cause of the nailing i was getting after i changed the injectors, i wanted to pull the head and make sure there wasnt any engine damage happening. so pulled the head, and thankfully there is no engine damage. i replaced the valve seals while it was off and rolled in a new timing chain after reinstall. old one was stretched about 5 degreess. I have 4 rebuilt injectors and one old. Had one that was making a bad sound, almost like a rod knock. did some rerouting of the oil cooler and hoses and the lower radiator hose. also installed an electric fan off some sort of hyundai. i found it sitting all alone in the jy and thought it looked like it would fit its bigger than my FAL and has a shroud. fits pretty well and works as it should. jeep now goes like stink. finished the exhaust out to the back and things are a lot quieter now. i have 3" thru a hush power then a super 50 flowmaster. sound great not too loud at all. still fiddeling with things here and there but overall, im happy and its all done but the clean up

 

havent done too much to it lately, which is a good thing i supposed. had to replace the alternator as it started charging at 16.5 volts. it had less than a year run time on it, which is pretty shitty. and how tight it is and covered by ic piping and misc stuff, took like 2 hrs to get out. the oil cooler was re mounted to in front of the the battery, its a DeRale with two 5" fans, and mounted to pull air thru openings i made in the hood. now it doesnt block the radiator and is much easier to access if needed. Im assuming that the minor "running hot" issue is due to the engine driven water pump running about 600 rpms lower than it would in a stock 300d. might have found a viable replacement pulley, thats much easier to source than a smaller mb pulley. should bring water pump rpms back up to 3063. ill follow up after its on and running.

best news of all. now getting over 18 mpg, on 35" tires and 4.56 gears.