Yes 6 degrees before TDC.

Yes the pump can leak into the crankcase but I've never seen one do it. There are brass washers inside the IP that are used as seals and prevent this.

Yes the when you remove the injector lines the delivery valves will likely turn, it's always an issue. Once they turn the o-ring starts leaking. The o-ring is on the part that turns, see pic. The turning of the delivery valve should not affect the clocking inside the pump, all the barrels are pinned so they can't turn.

If you're loosing power while driving it sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem not an IP problem.

 

Well finally got a real intercooler mounted in the front and hooked up and found my all my air leaks. What a difference!

The truck passed safety inspections today so now it's time to finally put it on the road, but there's still a few things I'd like to look at still. Is there a small hole drilled in the thermostat for a bypass? Mine barely gets up to 150F without a fan. I think it would run alot more efficiently at 180/185F. As for injection timing, I haven't touched it yet still thinking of how I'm going to go about it. I could either try and plot out the timing hole on my adapter plate and drill it out, or put a degree wheel on the crank and try to find TDC as precisely possible sticking a screwdriver in the injector hole? I would like to try advancing it, the engine feels like it runs out of steam in the top end. Lastly I keep blowing out turbo gaskets. I'll try taking the manifold off and the studs out then surface grind all the faces flat, but if that doesn't work I either gotta find a turbo manifold or build one.

 

The factory t-stat starts to open at 140 deg or so a new one is definitely in order. I have a 195 deg in mine and it never needs a fan.

 

Why can't you assume you are timed to factory specs, and just remove the amount of injector pump shims you want, and give that a try? That was what I was planning to do

 

ok i will get a 195 therostat do you happen to have a part number?

i did a bunch of research on timing. i know how to identify thickness of shims and how many degrees each shim is worth. however i found multiple timing specs ranging from 2-11 degrees btdc. so if i assume its 6 degrees and advance it 6 degrees to get 12, meanwhile it was already 11 then i'm 17 degrees advanced and i have no clue how these engines will react to excessive advance

 

Most of the Carrier engines are @ 4-6 deg. If you have the label on the valve cover I can narrow it down. CTD-5 is 4 deg, CTD-7 is 6 deg, CTD-4 is 6.5 deg, CTD-6 is 4.5 deg, CTD-1 is 9 deg, CTD-2 is 6 deg. That's all I have come up with researching Carrier manuals, I haven't verified the list against my motors. The one in my truck doesn't
have that lable, it must be a bit older model. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for sharing that info! Not sure if mine has it either but I will check tomorrow. Does anyone have troubles with they're tanks filling really slow? Mine was so I make it all 2 inch hose except where it goes into the tank I had to reduce it down to 1 inch or so. But it fills extremely slow as slow as the pump will pump it