2000 Grand Cherokee Om617 swap
 

Hi, i have searched everywhere to look for a Om617 swap on a grand cherokee but i only found Cherokee swaps so im making my swap very detailed so people can have some foundation and I'll be glad is im doing something wrong to point at it please, this Cherokee is in very good condition i paid a cheap amount cause it was almost throwing a rod the engine was a 4.0 2wd transmission, i bought a aw4 from a 96 Cherokee because it has the standalone controllr, another thing i noticed is that the stock transmission is a lot longer compared to the aw4 probably i will have to build a new driveshaft if the one from a Cherokee doesnt fit, im rebuilding the om617 right now, I'll be posting more pictureshttp://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk105/carlitosgy6/20140828_154550_zpsf5eprcha.jpghttp://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk105/carlitosgy6/20140825_173359_zpsof8yf1y5.jpg

Attachment 32017


easiest way I know of to do it is use the insert image button and paste your URL (http address to photo ) into it.

edit - there's another way but it's hard to describe it here. You end up putting [IMG] tags in front of the image and at the end manually.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps1v6znm7u.jpg

i dont know why is not working

paste the _http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk105/carlitosgy6/20140825_173359_zpsof8yf1y5.jpg

without the _ at the beginning of it into the dialog that comes up when you click on this:

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(click on for larger image)

Thank you very much beagle for all your help, people like you is what's make the forums so helpful, im expecting to receive the aluminum plate to do the engine to transmission adapter, until that im cleaning and sandblasting every part to make them ready for powdercoating

Im going to have some fun with this tomorrow
 

Attachment 32011 i was thinking on using this round piece of steel to make the adapter but i think the end of the crankshaft can do a better job

I will be looking with great interest, I did a Cherokee with the OM617/700R4 swap and didn't like the trans. Wish I had used the AW4, so hope you have better results with this trans, I believe it is a better way to go!

I looked at a lot of different transmissions because im a manual guy but this suv is for my wife so auto was the only option, i was thinking on a r4-200 or the 700r4 but i never liked gm trans but ford doesn't make a good reliable 4 speed trans thats why i chose the aw4, you dont like the 700r4 cause of the big difference between the first gear and second right?

Yes, and I could never really get the shift points to work well with the Benz "sweet spot". Everything else was ok. I am planning another Cherokee, but this time it will have the AW4/Kubota V2203. The shift points and gear ratio's are perfect for it!

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Attachment 31966 some update to the project, was waiting for the junkyard to find the correct flexplate for the aw4,powdercoated some parts this weekend im going to put some hours on it

Update
 

I put some hours on the weekend to the flywheel adapter and pilot bushing, i had to bore a hole to put the crankshaft bolts flush with the adapter so i dont have to cut the flexplate, i had a 1.250 steel bar but for the pilot bushing I needed at least 1.5 so i had to weld on the bar to have enough material to turn on the lathe, everything seems fine, now i have to decide if i get the rotating assembly balanced or notAttachment 31896

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Nice work. Were you doing weld buildup on your good lathe? I thought that was a no no. But still looking good.

I never weld steel on my lahe

Ok i thought that was a no no. When you say not steel
Does that mean it is OK for aluminium? I have seen shops do weld buildup on a lathe, but those were dedicated machines, just for that purpose. Something about welding current, magnetizes, or damages the gears in the head.
So your adapter flange is a cutoff of an old crankshaft? That is a good idea.

I am wrong, any welding that has spatter i don't do it cause spatter can damage the bedways, that was stick welding but later i had to add material so i did it with silicone bronze by tig, but none of them were done on the lathe, what you say about the gears make sense but my lathe doesn't get that slow, if i do it it has to be stopped, so i can grab the ground directly from the piece, yes thats the end of the crankshaft

Man I forgot how handy a 4 jaw can be. Been along time since I have used one. Nicely done. I get lazy and throw my crank adapters on a cnc mill.

I had the stock chuck, 5 inches 3 jaw, easier to use but no precision, after i put that big chunk of steel never went back

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...2f3eefcf9d.jpg


Crazy way of centering and setting the bolt holes

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...cc639bc121.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...0beeb3ad52.jpg


Oil pan is done

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...b81f9ef593.jpg


Head was rebuilt with exhaust valve guides replaced plus valve grinded, ready to go

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...845748e113.jpg


Turbocharger is done, fully rebuilt with a. 60 compressor upgrade


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...1a794e0b37.jpg

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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...30d8d07067.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...848d07397c.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.die...c38735d2f1.jpg


I made it run yesterday, feels nice, i think someone tweaked the pump because it feels it will run away sometimes, takes too long to get to idle, lets see when everything is setup

What input's are you using for the trans control? TV cable, TPS, Crank RPM?

Hi fte how are you? I run the engine to see if everything was fine but i have to wire the trans, I'm studying the wiring diagram from the trans and i see that i only need connected to the tcm the solenoids, the tps, the output speed sensor (reed switch), the switch that tells the tcm in which position is the shifter, a signal from the stop switch, the tv cable will be hooked to the stop lever, no rpm signal of any kind from the crankshaft

Ok, I was wondering about the rpm. I have just gotten my Cherokee Kubota swap running and am in the process of sorting through all the bugs. It seems to shift fine, but haven't gone on the freeway yet. So far I have the tps plugged in but not hooked to anything. I'm just holding it in different positions to see if the shift points change. I'm thinking it delay's the shift at wot.

Hey fte, i got almost all the wiring done on that tcu, made a bracket ro hold the tps that will be twisted by the throttle, kickdown cable also, do i need to hookup the brake sensing wire?what does it does? In the diagram it looks that it needs a negative signal, but i dont know if the switch is closed at pedal depress or at release to setup a relay to do that

2000 Grand Cherokee Om617 swap
 

There is a company that sells a small module that will run the aw4 at stock shift points or custom and the module is like 60 bucks

hey Broke, DO TELL, do you have a name for the module you are talking about?

Not sure about the brake switch, it most likely needs to be there to unlock the TC. I'm pretty sure you will need to have an engine rpm signal as well to lock the TC, I haven't gotten mine to lock without bypassing the tcu because the signal from the distributer is not there anymore. Still working on a solution. Other than that the trans shifts normal.

Thanks for the info fte but yesterday i got it working, the brake cable has to be on ground to the lock up to kick in, if you leave it on ground the converter kicks out at about 30 slowing down,what year is your cherokee? Probably that brake cable is the issue

It's a 90. So what inputs did you end up using? Are you just using TV cable, TPS, vehicle speed, brake switch? No engine rpm?