The Kubota Swap 'Hijack Me' Topic
 

I figure this could be a good place to ask questions where they may not be buried in someone elses build topic. Feel free to hijack this thread with your own questions and discussions!

So here's one to start out. I'm working on a new intercooler setup, and I need an intake manifold with the port at the rear instead of at the front. I know I've seen these somewhere, but my searches are coming up empty. Does anyone have any information or sources for these? I'm pretty sure my fab guy can modify mine without too much trouble, but it would probably be cheaper if I could find a used one that already has the layout that I need.

hello there new here, i am doing a kubota swap on a montero and i am having trouble sourcing a ranger transmission, would the MItsubishi transmission work? what are you guys doing about the engine mounts?

thanks in advance for the help guys

Mine is a rear/side port, off a Bobcat 743.

Any trans would be fine. we went with the ford trans because its what we already had in th truck red used the factor jeep trans and usedkubotaman used the factory s10 trans if I remember right

Thanks for starting this thread Red. Before I start my own swap, what did you guys do with the vehicle's ECU? Is it still being used?

Would a automatic transmission would work. Or is a 5 spd a must?

I just ran across this on Ebay, is this someone here making these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kubota-V2203-Chevy-SBC-BBC-crank-shaft-to-flywheel-adapter-new-for-diesel-swap-/151226210007?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item2335c8d6d7

Red, i have been toying with the idea of starting to produce kits like this, but with a block adapter.

I have everything I need to make a small block ford and a small block chevy. I have already have drawn up everything thing in solid works and made test plates to fit the transmission side, just need measurements for the kubota side and its on.

the ones i want to make will allow auto or manual tranny. once i find an engine i will have the first adapter within a couple days.

(still on the hunt as of right now for a motor i would be happy with just a short block for r&d)

this would just be a side thing to help fund my many on going projects

Personally I don't know how much I like the aluminum crank adapter, also needing a 2 inch thick adapater really pushes the flywheel out there.

Thanks
Ken

Hello l'm doing a kubota v2203 DIE engine swap into a 1967 scout 800. Was wondering if a TD04 turbo off a dodge stealth would work? Thanks for your help.:tu:

The TD04 I tried was too big, unless it had twins then it's going to be too small. Find a K03 turbo off a VW. :tu:

Hello all,

Good timing on the thread! I'm researching a V2203 DI into a smallish car, like an old Fox Mustang (1987 to be exact) and looking at Phoenix adapters. Their site shows a SAE 3 which I think is right , SAE 3 to C6 is what they show. I'm guessing that is a BBF sized C6 and not the SBF size. Anybody know for sure?

The reason I ask is I originally wanted a T5 but if it's the BBF bell size on the adapter I can use a Lakewood scattershield that has both bolt patterns and a Tremec 3550 transmission if I have to.

I saw reference to a 220.00 price for the adapter, which seems pretty decent. I'd likely need to get the crank adapter too and drill the Kubota flywheel for the Mustang size clutch/pressure plate? It's a 10.5" clutch from what I can tell. I am looking for some dimensions to see if the Kubota flywheel will fit inside the Lakewood housing without having to cut it currently.

The Kubota height/length even with the adapter appear to be close to the original 302's dimensions, the next concern is the oil pan. I probably need to get these parts together before I worry about it too much, but seems like the Bobcat pan is steel. I'm wondering about cutting / splicing / sumping that pan and using a motorcycle gas tank sealer to seal leaks.

Thoughts?

There - I managed to almost derail myself in post #3. Thanks for having me. Cheers

Is this the right motor?
 

Good timing on this thread. I have been hijacking others.

Can anyone ID the Kubota motor from a photo?

This link will be dead in a month so if your reading this after 3-14 you are out of luck.

Is this the right motor?

http://images.copart.com/website/dat...3064184_AX.JPG

It is about 2.5 hr from me so I thought I would ask here first.
From my limited understanding the Kubota, Isuzu, and Yanmar were used in the reefer units.

I thought I had the "right" truck for the swap today, but it was gone when I got there.

Hi guys! Beagle, yes the mustang will be a good platform, I have thought it would be a good candidate. I'm not too sure the Kubota is SAE, so you need to confirm, but the t-5 would be great and the rear gearing is perfect. A custom adapter may be necessary, but not too hard to do. Hunk, that does look like the motor, what year is the reefer? It would have to be @ 2003 to have the DI motor, the older have IDI motors look at the injector to tell for sure, Di are held in with a clip.

It could also be a v1903 same block.

The way the 2 injector lines run outside and over the intake manifold at the fwd side on the engine in the pic make it look like a DI Kubota to me.

It's a 2005 reefer
 

The reefer is a 2005 Great Dane. The control panel has an Advance logo on it.
I guess it's time for a road trip.

Most likely it's a DI, looks just like the ones I use.

it looks like a di from here it also looks like a carrier unit

Reefer
 

That reefer is in an auction. It should be sold the first week of March. I am going to watch it closely. If the prebid price is right, I will need to make a trip the day before it is sold so I can be sure it is the right thing. It would really suck if I bought it without previewing it and then found it wasn't the right motor.

The next problem is, "How would I get it home?" The front tires burned on both sides of the trailer. The aluminum siding is melted up both sides above the front axle. The rear axle is intact with all tires. I expect the brake and air bag lines are gone. It needs air to unlock the brakes, right? I don't have a semi to pull it with. I don't know what else on the trailer would be sellable to offset the cost. It does have aluminum wheels on the rear. The rest would go to the shreder. It would need to make one trip, with just my parts removed, from the current location to the scrap. My neighbors would not understand this parked in my yard or street.

appreciate the suggestion .. now i am looking forward to it

if you look at the brake cans on the side of it you will see a 3/4 nut take it off and put the t end in the back of the brake can and wiggle it around till it locks in place tighten the nut and watch the brakes back off I would contact a pick n pull or local scrap yard and see if they will buy the trailer for scrap metal the motor can be pulled with a fork lift or boom pole the unit complete weighs about 4500lbs or so so yank the engine or work a deal with the scrap yard to pull the unit and load the motor for you

hunk-a-junk I would be very wary of getting yourself responsible for the removal of a wrecked semi trailer. The amount of work and $ involved may far exceed the reward, Just getting at the 500# engine that is 12 feet in the air is going to be a challenge. I am not a driver, but there are other here that are, maybe they can chime in on how much work you will be in for.
I believe the brakes can be manually released by backing off the actuator rod that runs through the air/diaphragm unit, but then you will not have any brakes at all.
good luck with your project

here is my latest engine, it is a 2000 model DI bought at auction sight unseen , and it is a no compression having MoFo. So you all be aware look before you leep. I did not do to bad on it, I think I got my money in parts, but I am not going to waste my time on it NOW to see if it will run, maybe later I will mess with it, and may even put a rebuild kit in it.
But there are much better deals to be had on running engines, you just have to keep looking.
For hunk-a-junk, this is a DI motor and with the compressor it weighs 600#'s missing the starter and no oil.

Heavy
 

It doesn't look like it would be that heavy.

I tried to contact a local to the trailer metal recycler with no luck. There seem to be special things necessary to sell the trailer, but I don't know what they are. No freon for sure.
Removal of the refrigeration unit would deffinately be a problem away from home. Even at home I don't have the proper equipment to lift that elevation. It appears to me a fork lift would work the best. I expect the sale price will be above what I am willing to pay so it won't be an issue. I will continue to watch until it is sold. I may be better off to pass on that one.

I did find another sorce for a motor today. Unfortunately I would have to buy a complete refrigeration unit already pulled from the trailer. It has low hours so hopefully the motor would be in better condition than yours, dieselxj. The unit was removed for conversion to a west coast compliant unit, so there wasn't a performance issue. The price is a little high, but IF it was possible to sell the compressor or any other parts out of the refrigeration section it would make it attractive. I see a few parts on Fleebay for sale. Anyone have any luck with selling parts?

Trailers are going to be like a motor vehicle. there will be a TITLE and maybe even tax and registration. If you can get just the reefer unit that sits on the front of the trailer I would think you would be much better off. There is a lot of copper in there that has scrap value, PLUS it would be much easier to handle just the reefer set, than the whole trailer. Now if you need storage space that is a different story.
You can try and get in touch with the person that does buy the trailer, and see what they want it for. The new owner may just want it for storage and be willing to let you have the reefer for a reasonable price.

Good luck

A title would come with the trailer. I would also have to pay a buyers fee, loader fee, and internet fee. If I don't buy the trailer I believe I know who will, a local. They sell the motors "rebuilt" for $1500 and up. I may be wrong, but I think their idea is "Clean it + Paint it = Rebuilt" The rear of the trailer is damaged so no one will buy it for storage. With all the expenses and moving problems, if it is over $500 I'm out.

Don't forget the cost of evacuating the refridgerant before you can sell to a salvager.

Oh My Gosh some people just kill me. But I need a good laugh. :jump:

A small nail and a hammer should work. :)

A nail would work fine the 10 minute hiss could draw attention. The 37,500 per day fine sure adds to the cost of the swap. I hope your laughing.

Any thoughts on a v2003-t-eu1 ? I can't find much information about it yet, Kubota must have a bunch of information under lock and key!

The bid on this unit is currently $1300 (including sellers fees). The auction end is a few weeks away yet. I expect the price to go much higher. I am no longer interested. As has been discussed in this thread, it is too much work, time, and expense to move the trailer and dismantle it. I will continue looking for a removed unit.
Thanks everyone for your input on this one!

Have you been in contact with Your local Carrier dealer. Our local Carrier dealer has about 10 Kubota powered reefers in his yard that have been removed from the trailers for upgrades or time replacement, he can't sell them because they still belong to his customers. If your local dealer is anything like ours. He may put you in contact with one of his customers to see if you can work out a deal.

I actually spoke to them this evening. There price is $1500 for a high time motor. There is a local milk company that never upgrades there fleet. That means they need to replace motors in their reefers. The dealer can use all he gets to install in their units. He seemed eager to help when I told him what it was for. He said he would try to work with me to find a little newer motor. I don't think they are my best option. If I understood a previous contact correctly, I can buy a complete lower time reefer unit for about the same money. Anything I could sell off of it would lessen my expenses.
I called about another truck on our local Craigslist. It looked good in the photos. It was more than I wanted to pay. No answer. Not a good way to sell a truck.
What is everyone else spending for their trucks? There seem to be quite a few with bad motors here. I want a nice body, without rust. I live in the rust belt.

My swap is a '97 F-150 with 110,000 miles (hydrolocked) that I got for $1,200 plus some custom wooden drawers. The owner bought it when it was 1 year old but only drove it in the summers. I know that others here have gotten their rigs anywhere from free to $1,500. What model and year are you looking for? I don't know where you're located but I've seen some decent deals around Vegas and Phoenix.

Any one have more info?
 

I am not affiliated with this in any way. I have emailed this mfg a few times. I have told this mfg about this site and asked him to check it out. He is also working on trans adapter plates ($375). His 2" thick plate is supposed to mimic the back of a GM block. It is supposed to take the GM starter. He also advertizes exhaust header flanges, oil pan flanges, and shut off solenoid plates. The price would be $700 for the trans plate and flywheel adapter. Most here are building there own for less than half of that, but it takes labor and calculation.

I believe this would fit the 4.3 transmission not the 4 cyl. His swap is in a full size truck that he uses around his ranch. If the 4.3 uses the one piece crank seal like the later model V8 motors this setup would need an earlier flywheel/flexplate.

Anyone have any more information or thoughts on this setup?

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Are you guys that are using the KO3 turbo taking the pressure regulation canister off? Here is a link I found to a knock off of the KO3.
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...6ETzgMDVgDI7IE
The gold canister on this photo is used to regulate the boost output on the VW. This probably opens the relief between 6 and 9 psi on the VW. I see boost levels reported here over 20 psi. That is making me believe you are removing this canister.

If you are removing the canister are you also making a linkage to lock the relief valve closed? In some old posts on another site I saw some were actually welding the relief valve to seal it shut. Anyone doing this?

There was just a pair of VW KO3 turbos sold on Fleebay. The seller said they needed rebuild. The selling price for the pair was $118 with shipping. I didn't bid, but was interested. What are the pick a part places charging? If you bought one at the local recycler would you automaically put a rebuild kit into it?

My last turbo rebuild (4BT) seemed to go well, but it didn't live. I wound up buying a new one shortly after my rebuild. I don't know what I did wrong or missed. At that time my new one was an upgrade.

I see several of the Fleebay Chinese turbos state they are upgrades for the KO3. That would probably not be a good idea, since it seems the stock setup is working well. An upgrade may not match our needs. Has anyone tired one?

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M&PCCW - I like the name. (That is my choice also)
I am interested to see how the motor does with the bigger truck.
I'm located in the "Rust Belt". St. Louis is the closest major city. Im in Southern IL.
I have been looking for a nice bodied, bad motored 2nd gen S10 or Sonoma. I put a wanted add on Craigslist this afternoon. One call so far but not exactly what I want. The asking price was $600 but had minor body damage. I would rather pay a little more and not do body work.

does anyone have a picture of a finished modified governor spring??

I recognize a few user names on here :hellox:

I've got a V2203 with a non-intercooled IHI-RHf4 turbo in my 1946 Willys. I've been driving it every day for the passed 2-3 months just working out any little kinks and slowly taking care of all the little things, rattles and what not. In general, it seems to be running real good! I've not done a whole lot of tuning on it. I've doubled up the governor spring, and I backed out the fuel screw. No smoke, and EGT is good. When I stand on the throttle in neutral, the RPMs go to 2800 and hold.


So my question: When ever the motor drops down to idle speed, it always seems to dip below the idle speed momentarily and send a shudder/shake through the vehicle before it instantly goes back up to the correct idle speed. Just like when you turn the vehicle off, it shakes as it shuts down.

Any way to get rid of this? Right now, the idle speed is around 8250 or so, and idles smooth once it's been running for a few minutes. I'm thinking about bumping it up, but I don't want to go to high. Is this possibly an indication that the turbo or fuel or something else isn't setup properly? Or is it normal?





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Also, I have 1.75" exhaust tubing coming out of the turbo all the way back, no muffler or diameter changes. I was thinking later on making a much larger pipe coming out of the turbo, that then tapers into the rest of my 1.75" exhaust. Would this net any power or anything at all?

Look on my thread "S-10 Kubota Diesel Conversion" pg33, there's a small spring that keeps the rack pulled forward, check that spring.

Thanks! This is a different spring than the governor spring that's accessed through the stop lever panel, right? I don't remember seeing another spring in there, but then again I wasn't looking for another one.



(edit) Yea, in your photo here I don't remember if I saw a spring there or not. That's looking straight down through the throttle plate, right?

Wonder if I can crack the throttle plate open and take a look, without upsetting the governor springs (I doubled my governor springs up), it was a b*tch getting those springs on there! haha!


https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...202_113206.jpg

Yeah I bet getting two springs on there was a pain! Yes this is looking down through the throttle plate, you should be able to remove it and look without much trouble.