I should have taken a photo, but I found a spring that was a little bit more tension than the factory spring with a smaller diameter and same exact length, so I nested it inside the factory spring, it was happy days once I finally got them hooked up :jump:

In retrospect, I shoudl have found a spring that was the length of the coils on the kubota spring, and just attached it to the coil springs itself, so I'd only have to worry about getting one spring hooked in place. BUT, that's life. haha! If I want more tension later, that's exactly what I'll do. Right now my RPM in neutral goes up to 2800. Which is fine, my cruise RPM is 2200 but I may want to open it up a bit more later in case I want to bounce the rev limiter to get the jeep unstuck. :rocking:

I'll pop the throttle plate off this weekend if I have time (I'll be working, ugh! :scare2: ) and see if that spring is there.




If the spring IS there and it's connected like it should be, any suggestions? I've got a box of old random springs that I can use if it's missing. should it be a fairly heavy tension spring? or light?


(dang, I love the smiles on this forum, they rock! sorry for using so many! haha)

Light tension on the little spring, it only provides enough pressure to pull the rack forward for starting. Not sure otherwise but it has to be one of the springs, there is nothing else.

On another note, my current exhaust size is 1 3/4" diameter from the turbo all the way back, with no muffler, all 1/16" mandrel bent steel with the first bend coming out of the turbo being 1/8" I did this because I originally thought I might place the EGT sensor there and thought thicker pipe would be easier to drill and weld the bung into, but I decided to put it before the turbo.


Would there be much noticeable difference in either power, or sound, or EGT if I stepped up the pipe size to something larger, like 2.5"? What about the first foot or so coming out of the turbo, making that bit larger than the rest of the pipe? I'm learning to TIG weld, so I think this might be a fun first project. I MIG welded the exhaust that's on there now, but I'd like some better looking TIG welds :D


I've got enough power for what I need, but I know I can't NOT mess with it :choochoo:

Usedkubotaman - Does yours have this piece off of the back of the IP housing?

Attachment 33390

It's a spring loaded part that pushes the rack forward. I checked my old DI engine, and it doesn't have the little internal spring.

Attachment 33391

You chose the correct location for the EGT, before the turbo.
The increase in exhaust pipe diameter could help performance. That would more than double the pipe capacity. Since you have used a heavier down pipe that is an even bigger increase.
There would be a difference in sound. Just changing from heavy wall pipe to exhaust tube makes a sound change. The exhaust note should get deeper, but I don't know what it would sound like.
If you are going to TIG exhaust tubing you will need to remove any aluminized coating at the weld site.
I like using some form of coupler in the exhaust system so I can easily get it apart. V-bands are great but a little pricy.

According to the Carrier manual, that is called the High idle body, and all of my 2.2's have this not the spring Kubotaman shows. It must be a Carrier only or a later year option. I have a 2003, 2005 and 2006. My 2.0t motor is different.

Good to know there is a difference between the DI and IDI governors. I only had the one spring in my DI parts engine. I pulled it out the other day I was going to cut it down ala usedkubotaman, but now I am not sure.
I still would like to see a modified DI spring anyone have a picture of their modified spring?

I wish I had documented the spring I used, would have made it easy for next time. Now I will have to take it back out to match up. I just got lucky, but some are doubling up the stock one with a smaller spring inside and others are cutting the stock one. The key is to not get it too short because then it won't idle well.

Well this next time you should document more and take pictures. :) Besides some people need pictures as they can not read like myself. :)

I have the spare spring I suppose it would not hurt to try and fiddle with one of my spares. I just remember that messing with springs is not that much fun.
FTE, or REd, Did the coater give any kind of a group discount? FTE we could send ours off together. I want to talk to the coater and see if it will be much better if I get the turbo coated before it is used?

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Jester, was there a part # for FTE's spring somewhere buried in the thread?

Sorry, no part#. I have to do some more R&D before I do coating. I plan on trying the 2.0 turbo manifold with my current turbo, then depending on the results, swap the Ko3 turbo on the better manifold. After determining the best combo, I plan on coating the manifold, adapter, housing. That will be some time before I get it all done due to other priorities.

Usedkubotaman had a spring and part number but I was informed by usedkubotaman that he modified the factory spring instead of using the before mentioned spring.

What batteries are you guys using? Anything special? I just picked up my project truck today, a 1997 F-150 2wd with 110,000 miles. It weighs less than 3900 lbs so I figure it should work. The battery was stolen out of it, so I figured I should start out with the proper battery. Any suggestions?

I have a yellow top in mine. I know the yellow top batteries have been given alot of bad reviews over the passed few years, but I put one in my TJ a year or so back, and it's doing fine, even after sitting for a month or so my TJ fires right up instantly. So, I put one in with my Kubota engine too.

The starters are gear reduction, I don't think they pull as much current as a old fashioned direct drive starter. I have been using the battery out of my little outboard skiff, for bench runs. In my Mercedes jeep I have use a red top Optima that I got used, and also a old stock interstate jeep battery. I don't think you need to worry so much about the battery as the battery cables.
I got my newest no compression engine to run tonight with very little cranking. I did have to soak it and turn it over for a few days and then prime the oil pump housing and crank with no fuel for a few turns to get the oil pressure up, Then it started rite up.
Have fun with your F-150. If that works out well it could open up a whole new group of heavier conversions with little engines.

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Did you scale your F-150 or is that an advertised weight???? That is 200#'s less than my '98 2wd Dakota extended cab with a v-6 and a 5 speed with a lowboy camper shell.

I just picked it up today, not running. It's a 2wd, standard cab, short bed, 4.2L V6, 5 speed with a 3.08. As bare bones base model as you can get :rocking: I got the weight from multiple sources online. They range between 3,850 and 3,890. I'm trying to decide whether I should get the gas engine running first or just drop in the kubota now.

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What size fuel line is everyone using? I know I read it in one of the threads before but can't find it anymore.

I think mine are 1/4", both feed and return.

It never hurts to be able to drive your truck before the conversion. I started my merjeep as a non runner $100 jeep. That was kind of a mistake. I put a lot of work in the conversion got it all done, and then started to drive a POS jeep, to discover the front end suspension was worn out, brakes shot, steering shot, well to be fair I bought a used steering box that is shot. I ended up running out of patience with the chassis. There is a jeep death wobble which will take a lot of work and $ to sort out, so I gave up on making this jeep a highway vehicle and I just use it at low speed in town.

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I am running 3/8ths pressure and return. The return off the #4 injector is smaller, but I will adapt it up to run to the tank. I got a whole spool of 3/8 fuel line for a reasonable price

Attachment 33366
Are you thinking what I am ? 8.8l straight 16 ? Lol but seriously a 4.4 straight 8 may be in the works soon would be 44 inches long

Would anyone be willing to give me a CAD or even plain engineering drawing of the flywheel housing bolt pattern? I want to start drawing up the adapter plate before the engine gets here. Just hoping to save a little time on measuring.

Time for another hijack! :scare2:

When I take my little Kubota Willys out into the mountains to do some wheeling, I am used to having alot of engine braking while coming back down off of the mountains, jut put it in 2nd gear and let the engine keep a constant speed. Well... that just doesn't work with the turbo diesel. And I have to ride my drum brakes all the way down. Not something I like to do.

So I'm thinking, :humm: how about an exhaust brake? I know they are usually used on vehicles that are towing, but would it be useful for slowing down (or keeping a constant speed) while going down long mountain roads?

When the butterfly is mounted in the exhaust, does it have to be directly behind the turbo? or could it be a 1-2 feet farther down the exhaust? I'm not sure I would have room to mount it directly off the turbo, but if I could have it 1-2 feet downstream I would have room I think. Most kits I see have an electronic solenoid. Could it be just as simple as a pull cable? Are the solendoids wired to kick in when you step on the brake lightly? Or do you flip a switch and not use the brake pedal at all? I'm not familiar with their operation.

K03 off a vw is best way to go

I don't think it necessarily has to be anywhere in particular in the exhaust, though I think the closer it is to the exhaust ports, the faster it'll start to take effect; shouldn't think it'd be too noticeable a delay, though, if you just put it somewhere convenient, as long as it isn't right at the end of the tailpipe. :)

You could make it a mechanical pull-cable, as long as you can route the cable to a lever somewhere handy; or a solenoid, using either a separate switch, or a pressure switch in the brake line somewhere.

(The kit manufacturers probably use solenoids because it's a little easier to route electrical cables, because you're not having to worry about trying to pull them to actuate the valve.)

Take all that with a pinch of salt, though; I'm just going off what seems reasonable to me, and I'm no mechanic. :) I'll be happy to hear if I'm too far out on the branch, with this; then I can learn something.


EDIT: According to Banks, they put their exhaust brakes after the turbocharger. (Though they don't appear to say why.) They also say they use a solenoid so that they can automatically bleed off pressure to a safe level while maintaining braking (So that they don't burst the exhaust, or force exhaust valves off the seats, which would end badly.); as well as automatically cut off engine braking at low speeds, where it's not as effective, so that the turbo keeps *some* shaft speed, ready for the next acceleration.

Ahh yea, I guess you wouldn't want it to build up TO much pressure. Most of these exhaust brakes seem to be for bigger trucks with much larger diameter exhaust, I'll see if I can find a universal one somewhere that would fit say a 2" or 2.5" exhaust. I'm thinking about stepping up the exhaust size anyway, I've got 1.75" exhaust right now.

I imagine that the placement after the turbo is so there won't be anything in the exhaust stream preturbo that would lower exhaust velocity. I'm pretty sure that a lot of them use vacuum solenoids, which has always seemed kind of weird to me for a diesel.

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My dad has one on his 01 Cummins. It's armed with a switch in the cab, then it automatically comes on when he lets off the throttle and turns off when he gives it throttle. It also helps it warm up when idling cold. I'm not sure what brand it is though.

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Hmm. That (The post-turbo bit) seems a reasonable explanation. Though I have no idea why you'd use vacuum actuators on a diesel; it's not like it's something you naturally have available. :humm:

I agree

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I know that Red already posted in another thread, but what is everybody using for fuel filters on their conversions?

Adapter mfg views on Kubota motor
 

I contacted an adapter mfg this week hoping to create some interest in their manufacturing of Kubota adapters.
Here is their resoponse and I quote,
"Industrial motors make lousy car and truck motors. The RPM band is too narrow. We have done Perkins to Chev, Kubota to Chev and others. I thought they sucked ass to drive."

Those posting about an enjoyable drive out of there Kubota must like "sucking ass"?
:jump:

Keep the information coming guys. I am lurking and learning. Still no truck or motor here yet... Patiently shopping for the right vehicle...

I do not have one as of yet running in a vehicle. But I will say it is all personal perspective and how much work people are willing to put into what they wish to end up with.

So by there perspective they very well maybe right. If they just put a Kubota V2203 into something without a turbo and maybe without an Inter Cooler and did not work with the governor spring along with incorrect final gearing then of course they could very well be right or even if one of those items listed were not done correctly then again they can be right.

Again it is all personal perspective and personal goals and how much work you are willing to put into it to achieve those goals. Not to mention ones Goals must be reasonably obtainable.

There is no doubt that engines designed for automotive applications have a distinct advantage for the average person.

I feel my goals are pretty obtainable if I even get close to Rangmars numbers as my factory 4 cyl engine is rated at 91 HP at 4500 RPM and 118 TQ at 2500 RPM. And from the best of my recollection Rangmar got around 98 HP and 289 TQ. So I know I will not have the RPM but that is what gears are for but I will have allot more usable TQ. And that is what a Truck needs is TQ. So I feel it will not only equal my present power plant but will exceed it. Except for MPH due to gearing restraints.

Sorry if this was all a bit much. :)

Also, don't forget that factory numbers are measured at the flywheel. Rangmar's numbers are at the wheels.

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I don't have an intercooler, but I did put stiffer springs on the governor and adjusted the fuel rack. With a manual boost controller, I'm getting 14-15PSI when I goose the throttle, it' moves pretty darn good, I can pass other cars no problem, so long as everyone is going 55 or less. It's just not geared to go faster than 60. It's no small block, but it really does move good! Way better than with the old flathead, that's for sure!

I agree with you completely. I am in the research portion of the V2203. I have nothing purchased at this time. My sole diesel swap was with a 4BT Cummins into a '62 pu. It turned out nice, but not perfect. I used a 400 turbo transmission. It needed an OD. As you said, gearing is the key to a good swap.
If I thought the V2203 was an inapropriate motor I would have been long gone from this site. My earlier post was just passing along information from another "expert". I want it, now I need to find the time to do it. 75 to 80 hr work weeks take there toll.

New ride
 

The above has changed. I just purchased a 2002 Blazer 2door 2wd V6 auto from an insurance salvage pool. The damage is minor. The miles are low. I bought it from photos online. I have my fingers crossed. I have to pick it up in the next 4 days in Chicago. That's 300 miles one way. Snow is possible on Wed. I considered driving it home but reconsidered. I better get aquainted with it here.

The internet (which never lies) says it weighs 3488 lb.

The saga begins.

Here's one for the Jeep people.

In order to turn on the tach, the PCM needs to see a signal from the cam sensor on startup. It's common for people to make or buy two sensor wheels, one for the cam and one for the crank sensor ($400+ from JD!). When I was building mine, I found that it doesn't check for accuracy of the cam sensor signal, just presence during startup. Some have used a relay to tie the disconnected cam sensor signal wire into the active crank sensor signal wire during startup, which is what I did and have used successfully for the past year and a half.

I was thinking about it last night though and couldn't see any reason why the cam sensor would need to be disconnected after starting. The actual signal from the cam sensor is used with the gas engines for checks related to fuel and ignition timing, but does not affect the gauge readout in any way after startup. It shares the same 5v power and ground output as the crank sensor, and is the same type of pickup, so there isn't any chance of overpowering and frying something.

I decided to try just directly connecting the cam signal wire to the crank sensor signal, and it worked! I managed to eliminate two fist fulls of wire, ties, and other junk in the process.

Kubota decal on FleeBay
 

I saw this decal for sale on Flee-Bay. It is kind of cute. Check it out.
NO it is not me selling them nor do I know the seller.
Kubota Kiss This Decal Mower Tractor Pull Pulling Sticker Trailer Parts New | eBay

Should we band together and have a more tastefull one done? How about "Kubota Powered" or "Powered by Kubota"?

Rangmar and I both have this one from eBay.

Attachment 33267

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does anyone have the full part # or build # for the VW K03 turbocharger? Or a picture of the complete data plate on the turbo? I wanted to try and look up the compressor map on it.

thanks

never mind I got it I think # 06A 145 713 B K03-058-EB5037706

lets see what I can find for a map

Has anybody had issues with the transmission input shaft being too long for the Kubota? Is it okay to just cut it to length? Did you put the pilot bearing in the flywheel or crank?

The shaft in the T90 in my jeep was the right length. The adapter plate was fairly thick though, so that probably compensated for it?







So, I'm mocking up a crude exhaust brake for my jeep. I've got the butterfly valve ready, and I'm just going to un-bolt the back 2/3 of my exhaust, and temporarily bolt the valve right up to the end of the down pipe to give it a test.

My question though, is what do I need to look out for as far as to much back pressure? Will that be something I'll be able to feel or hear when it builds up to much? Or is it something that can only be sensed with a pressure gauge? I could weld in a bung and temporarily rig up a pressure sensor?

Right now I've got two holes drilled in the butterfly valve. The valve itself is just smaller than the pipe diameter, so it wouldn't seal all the way even if there weren't holes. I figure I can enlarge the holes if needed, or weld them up and drill smaller ones if I'm not getting enough back pressure.


Any concerns here? I don't need tons of back pressure, I'm not towing a boat down a hill. Just want to keep my jeep from gaining to much speed on long hills coming down mountains without riding the brakes hard.

I'll take a photo of my setup tonight. Is there any theoretical guide or rule of thumb for how much restriction there should be?