depends on which plug The small ones on the side of the block; you are probably interested in are 1/8" BSP If I remember correctly. There are some bigger ones near the oil filter housing also BSP.
I found some british plugs at one of the hose shops. I think some of the others folks got soft brass 1/8 ntp and sort of encouraged them to fit and then got on down the road. On the bigger ones you can drill out the centers of the plugs and tap them how you like.
I almost forgot there is also a oil pressure port on the drivers side fwd that is in between the pipe plug sizes, This one has a regular external hex plug and a crush washer. I forget the size, but it is a common metric straight thread size, I think 8mm x? I ordered a metric to AN flare adapter from Earl's Indy, and did the turbo and vac pump oil pressure lines with -4 aluminum tubing and AN-4 fittings; it works fine,. But sort of in the way of the engine mounts as it ended up
When I do my next engine I think I will try and use one of the small 1/8" british plugs.
I have a oil pressure drop after high speed running when warm not too bad, but noticeable, I think the oil pressure tap I used may be bigger than I need, Not sure if it is causing my oil pressure drop or not. Just thinking of gen II conversion stuff

hoped that helped

 

I read somewhere that the British pipe thread was very similar to NPT. I'm also using 3an and 4an braided hose for a more refined look. I actually took the plug to Ace Hardware and test fit it. It would go into an m8 x1.0 and also would fit into an 1/8 npt...that is until I bought the fittings on line and the won't even come close to threading into the port.

 

I just learned about push fit braided hose a month ago. a guy sold me a hose bib fitting, for my turbo drain a year ago, but he did not tell me it would work without a hose clamp. I got that little bit of info from a local hose shop; when I made my 3rd drain line for my third turbo.
I am running/testing my first no hose clamp hydraulic hose, Maybe I am a little late to the party, but I did not know they made push fit AN/JIC and NPT fittings and hose that was good for 200F and I think 300psi. And another bonus the stuff I got is made in the USA. The pic is of the oil pressure supply line for my turbo, I still can't get over the no hose clamp part yet. Well over a 1000 miles on this hose so far and not even a hint of a drip.

 

I just run a tap in the port to accept npt, I have done two so far with no issue. Put a little grease on the tap to capture the chips, doesn't take but a few turns, then crank the motor to flush to be certain it's clean.

 

Man I just can't make myself do that. Although I did consider it. I just don't want those shavings in my oil gallery.

 

check 5pcs 1 8" BSP Brass Pipe Hexagon Countersunk Plug | eBay

that way you can have spares

 

Hey guys, I'm buttoning up some small details on my Kubota before I hoist it into my Heep. I know this has been covered in another thread, but what size drill did you guys use to drill the dipstick tube hole?

Also, I've got an NPR alternator and the front gear case mounting hole for the alt is a mm or two smaller than the pivot holes on the npr alternator. Did anyone drill it out to match? I'll start a build thread when the action starts, I've been spending all of my time on the Jeep end of things so far. I've replaced the 2wd auto for a 2wd AX15 and that was the bulk of the conversion so far.

 

for the dipstick I am pretty sure I drilled 15/32". I would measure and see if that sounds correct before you drill.
On the alternator. I made bushings for the alternator, and used a bolt sized for the Kubota mount. I did not want to drill the aluminum Kubota mount any bigger . You most likely will need bushings on the alternator regardless to adjust the system for good belt alignment. Don't scrimp on accessory mount strength, the accessories are under more load than you might think.
looking forward to a new jeep build thread. what sort of jeep do you have?

have fun

 

I'll check that out, sounds about right. I expected to need spacing fore and aft, but the clearance between the pivot bolt and the alternator is bothering me. If I were to drill it, I would be relying on the clamping force between the fastener and the case, but I don't like that and would prefer to copy what worked for you guys, not sure where to look for that type of spacer.

It's a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4 door I found on craigslist with a bent piston skirt in the 4.0 and a dead auto trans. The body is pretty minty and it had 4 new wrangler at tires on it.

Thanks!

 

sorry I am not sure where you are at- on 'clamping force', or looking for spacers. pictures would help.
you have to make the spacers and bushings