here is a turbo list sorry for the double post there is a big lag so the first post did not look like it posted

 

I've tried several different turbos, none perform as well as the K03's.

 

I think the Kubota turbo topic may merit its own thread here. Does anyone know if there is a way to edit a first post? I haven't found a way on this forum, but it would be great if we could keep an easy to find listing of tested turbos.

Here's my experience from the best of my memory. I also found out that the WRX actually has a TD03-13T, not G. Some of the earlier listings online have it listed as a G, but that appears to be incorrect.

TD04L-13T-6 from 2004 WRX
Results: 3-4PSI from 1600-1900RPM, about 8PSI @ 2000, would slowly push up to 14PSI by 2500 which was where the RPM was limited at the time. Very quickly rising EGT if fueled too quickly.

Compound turbos
Small turbo: TD03-08G-4.8 from twin turbo Volvo S80
Big turbo: TD04L-13T from WRX
Results: 8PSI @ 1800, 12PSI @ 2000, quickly rising into the 20s with more RPM. Felt labored, not quick revving, would blow filler cap off the valve cover. Likely very high drive pressure.

TD03-08G-4.8 from Volvo S80 alone
Results: Same as compounds but would have to be pushed very hard to reach 12PSI @ 2000RPM, and would fall flat after that.


TD03L-10k-4.8 CHRA and compressor housing from BMW 335D with Exhaust housing from the Volvo TD03
Results: Same as Volvo TD03, but would continue pulling up to 2300-2400RPM

TD04L-10KYRC-5 from Cummins B3.3
Results: 4PSI ~1200RPM, 6PSI @1500, 8PSI @ 1600, 12PSI @ 2000RPM, ~20PSI @ 2500RPM, 30PSI @ 3000RPM. It continues to pull hard to over 3500RPM. EGTs generally below 1000, and will only rise above 1100 if pulling very hard for a long time below 2200RPM. The turbo builds boost very fast over 2000RPM, but intake heat rises quickly over 15PSI.
Notes: Stock turbo on Mitsubishi 2.0TDI. Also, the similar TD04-10T was stock on the Mitsubishi 2.5 diesel vehicles.

 

I found some interesting specs on carrier Kubota motors. Not all are the same in terms of set output, on motors made after 2004, the timing, rpm, and output #'s are different. I have 4 and of the three in this vintage, the 4th is 2002, the timing on 2 is 6 deg and the other is 6.5. The latter has more output, 28.9 kw compared to 23.7, 2200rpm vs 1700rpm. The 2002 motor is 28.2 kw, not sure what rpm or timing, the label does not say. So I'm not sure if it's just timing and rpm that is making the difference or?

 

How did you guys connect the heater core lines to the Kubota?

 

Remove the little curved hose on the thermostat housing over to the head and use those ports. I built custom inlets for mine that were bigger so I would have more water flow. I’ll take a pic of mine and post it if you like.

 

Pictures would be great, thank you Kubotaman.

 

I know some have just used the stock nipples and there is plenty of flow for heat.

 

Here's what I made for my truck. I just wanted to make sure I had plenty of flow. Depending on which "T"-stat housing you have, it may have a screw in nipple or it may be a permanent squeezed in type, either way you can modify if you want. I drilled and tapped mine and then used a brass fitting that I drilled out for additional flow.

FTE is correct though, you'll probably get plenty of heat without modifying as long as you have a hotter T-stat.

 

I just replaced the bypass hose with the heater plumbing, and it has always had plenty of heat. Getting the engine up to full temp has always been the heat limitation, not the flow.

Did anyone ever figure out if the liquid cooled turbos put out enough heat to run the heater alone?

This is an older picture of my setup, but the heater hose routing is still the same.