I thought I heard that if you spliced the signal wire from the dist into the crank sensor it would work??

I you took longer than 1 second (about 3 rotations of the crank) to spin the distributor after cranking the computer shuts down those functions until ignition is reset. This is so the engine won't start without a cam signal. This is most likely the problem.

I'm gonna call this part 2 or 2.0 or maybe Cherokee revisited? mileage is 189351 so that's 5500 miles since initial install.

So for the last 5500 miles I've really beat the crap out of this thing, been wheeling hard off road most every weekend. Never planned on pushing it so hard just kinda happened.

First on the list of upgrades is the torque converter, 1800 (1600 true stall) to 2400 (2200 true) and replace 1-2 accumulator spring with softer red spring.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_184537_zps2glfdklu.jpg.html
Transmission pulled, nice to know I can pull this thing without pulling the engine.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_182550_zpsofm3oypr.jpg.html
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_182550_zpsofm3oypr.jpg.html
Trashed transmission mount. I'm thinking upgrade to solid urethane mount.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_183313_zpsrqpttv7n.jpg.html
Completely flat motor mount. I've ordered some hydraulic ones that the Cummins guys are using hopefully they will hold up better, going to run a limiter on the mount too.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_184229_zpsq9phhrn8.jpg.html
Measuring for dual electric fans.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_184353_zps7jb17tea.jpg.html
Replaced 8.8 axle shafts with alloy ones, you can see the damage on this one.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140927_191314_zpsja0kbeyb.jpg.html
The giant dent on the steering stabilizer corresponds with the dent on the oil pan, been doing some crazy stuff with the jeep time for bump stops. It takes allot of suspension compression to do this.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_184918_zpsibfbntxu.jpg.html
My steering angles, a little bump steer but not to bad.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141026_184909_zpsaghiyfqi.jpg.html
more to come......

Nice work, maybe I can start a post with all the pictures on my build of the hmmwv swap I did with my Cherokee with the 6.2 L and my 95 van turbo. I have been amazed at the performance and milage from my swap. Better power, twice the torque, great offroad, and 32-35 mpg. Instead of the 12 mpg. from the old 4.0. Hail to the diesel!

I'd love to see that. I entertained the 6.2 at one point but thought it wouldn't fit and maybe to heavy.

Diesel XJ99, give up all that good info your holding on too, man! Funny thing is I have a 99 XJ and I am wanting to do a swap, thinking of the OM617. I just hate computer crap on engines and all the electronic sensors to run stuff.

I am a newbie with serious information Jonesing going on! I want to learn it all. I haven't ever done anything like this before.

man, I just sounded like my first girlfriend.
anyways, knowledge is power.

Thanks for anything you guys can help with. :rocking:

so I am doing this sway in a 97 jeep wrangler 4 cylinder and I have it running but I am not able to get the gauges in the dash to work. the speedometer and the tachometer do not work. I have tried to put the magnets on the power steering pulley and then holding the pickup coil out of the distributor next to the magnets as someone else starts the jeep with a push button starter but it still does not read anything. the only wires I have hooked up are the cam and crank sensor. Is there anything else that needs to be plugged/spliced in to make it work?

On a different note what does everyone think of running a hood stack on this bad boy?

Do you have input voltage to both senders??, 5vdc input to both senders. Do you have any other gauges in the OE cluster working? Then you need to check that the senders are doing there thing. I don't know if hand holding the pickup will work. But both senders need to send out a 0-5-0 repeated voltage as the engine is rotated by hand past the notches or magnets.

I know that I had the voltage at the pick up coil with the key off the ground would flash like you said but when the key is turned on the two wires on the out side both give a 12 volt positive with the plug disconnected. I will check the crank sensor later tonight for power. I do not think any of the other gauges in the dash are working. I am not sure if the fuel level sensor is broken or not working. but I assume that the volt meter should read when I turn the key. but my turn signals and break lights light up and work. but I'm not sure why the other things do not work.

12 volts at those senders is not good. perhaps you should start a new thread so as not to jack evenglass's thread