No I haven't, kind of lost track of everything. My company has been moving. Taking alot longer then we anticipated. My machine shop has been down for almost a week and a half. We were expecting 3 days. Been scrambling and running long hours. I am adding electrician onto my resume along with heavy equipment mover.

 

Ok if you find out, let me know. Hoping its a 1011F. Glad to here about the long hours, overtime money for those projects. Ha! Ha!.

 

Unfortunately I am salary. The big perk is my machine shop is 4x in sqft.

 

Ken please give me a call

 

Small update.

I have not done the swap yet. Still collecting parts and trying to get this T56 from my friends grip. He says he isn't going to use it. will trade for items I have that he wants but he will not pull the trigger.

Anyways, decided to get the truck fully registered and street legal to work out any non swap related items like brakes etc. Things are going good have been commuting 60 miles daily for the past month in the truck without a hiccup. Well except the rain and no back window. I cant wait for the kubota though. only getting about 20 mpg. i have two cylinders with low compression 1 &4 are at 160psi and 2&3 are at around 100psi. i am working on that currently. the truck sat for 13 years and when I did a wet compression test the numbers were all good at around 160psi. Going to do a soak this weekend and an oil change and hope I can bring my comp up for now.

Enough about the gasser.

Been busy with adapters. Things have taken off lately. Prefect for the holidays.
This kit ships out monday.

small block chevy adapter with flywheel w/ hardware, starter, pilot, starter w/ mounting hardware and a oil pan flange.

This is going into an old ****** Jeep.

 

You Weld it DIY Oil Pan

Spent the day developing a new oil pan. The flange has already been done as you can see by the picture above. I wanted to make an easy kit to build your own oil pan. You would need a welder and a workbench with a nice square edge.
This oil pan is an experiment and it measures 13.25 x 7.25 x 6" deep on the sump and will hold a little over 1.5 gallons to the flange.

This first one is just a test to see how things come together, It will take a day or two to find the time to get it punched out but I am excited.

If it work properly I can easily make completely custom one off oil pans to any ones dimensions. What you would get is the 1/4" flange and custom punched flat sheet a drain plug and turbo feed return tube.

Stay Tuned

Thanks
Ken

 

took me a couple more days to get this together but here it is. Custom DIY oil pan kit, can be made to any dimensions

The flange was seen above, this is just the body.

starts out like this



bend it by hand over a sharp cornered work bench and a little adjusting with a rubber mallet





final product.. total time forming is about 10 minutes





sorry so big. Anyways has a 3/4 npt port for oil drain and/or alternator drain and also 1/2" drain plug.

I made this out of .074 steel sheet so it would be easy to Mig weld. I will weld this one up on Monday, half with Mig and Half with Tig and see how it comes out. More pctures to follow soon.

 

Man that is sharp. I wonder how it would do with brazing? I'm more likely to get it to seal with something I can flow like solder.

Oh , and sorry, but that thing looks like a transformer. Had to... too lazy to make it look right though. haha.

 

I like what you added!
We will see how it welds. I know I can tig it without a problem but I wanted the thicker material to mig since more people have access to one.

The flange is 1/4 inch so with the proper technique there shouldn' t be much warping.

I will be listing them on eBay soon with sn option to get it fully welded also. The pickup would have to be made still

Thanks
Ken

 

Good job on the kit! The only thing I would change is the slots for the bends. I did almost the same pan, and it wasn't hard to bend, kept the welds to a minimum. Mig welding works ok but pin holes are common, tig would be best, brazing is good as well. An easy way to find leaks is to pour gasoline (after it cools) and roll it around over the welds. The gas will seep through the hole instantly.