Kubota v2203 into a jeep cherokee 2wd
#221
11-13-2016, 11:38 AM
It is time for a update I guess. The jeep never quit.... I felt I should put my spare engine in the jeep. It is back on the road today.
A pretty good story for the old engine though, lets call it version 1.0. The engine cost $600 delivered, and I did ZERO maint on the engine except oil/filter changes,( sorry I did not even adjust the valves). I did do one bracket repair. The engine lasted for about 21 months, and 28000+ miles. Almost 15000 miles in 62 days this summer with a couple of 1000 of those miles full Mario Andretti dirt road racer miles).
I made the trip at 4300# average vehicle weight, I think average fuel economy over 14000 miles was about 37mpg. I did make it home at pretty much full power Also I did hit the magic 40+ MPG figure I had been looking for. Actually 2 tanks back to back at 42 mpg, and 44 mpg. Both tanks at 60 mph or below. The 44 mpg figure I got driving thru the mountains at night in the rain probably going 45 to 50 mph a good bit of the distance.
So the new old $400 engine is in the jeep, and running surprisingly well. Considering when I first got it home I did not think it would start, let alone run. The idea here will be to rebuild my original first engine that I just removed,
the old engine had 28000 miles on the conversion and was running with about 35psi oil pressure and real close to 500psi on a compression test, no smoke to speak of, and I guess pretty normal blow by. I did put in a governor spring, and eventually took out all the timing shims. It sits on the stand ready for further diagnostics
During the trip in a pretty remote place I lost about half my oil pressure all at once I was running about 25psi at 60mph 10+ at idle for about 2 days, then the oil pressure went back up to about 35, a little less than usual. I changed the oil only and it did not really help. It took a few days and about a 1000 miles for me to get too a new oil filter. I cut open my oil filter and it was full of non magnetic metal. put on a new filter and drove 3500 miles home with as little delay as possible. cut that filter open and it looks clean maybe 2 or 3 little flakes. The engine was running smooth enough, but clattering pretty loud. I pulled one rod cap off and it looked normal
I plan on doing a full tear down, but I would like to know where the metal came from first.
now that the jeep is back on the road I can start the tear down
A pretty good story for the old engine though, lets call it version 1.0. The engine cost $600 delivered, and I did ZERO maint on the engine except oil/filter changes,( sorry I did not even adjust the valves). I did do one bracket repair. The engine lasted for about 21 months, and 28000+ miles. Almost 15000 miles in 62 days this summer with a couple of 1000 of those miles full Mario Andretti dirt road racer miles).
I made the trip at 4300# average vehicle weight, I think average fuel economy over 14000 miles was about 37mpg. I did make it home at pretty much full power Also I did hit the magic 40+ MPG figure I had been looking for. Actually 2 tanks back to back at 42 mpg, and 44 mpg. Both tanks at 60 mph or below. The 44 mpg figure I got driving thru the mountains at night in the rain probably going 45 to 50 mph a good bit of the distance.
So the new old $400 engine is in the jeep, and running surprisingly well. Considering when I first got it home I did not think it would start, let alone run. The idea here will be to rebuild my original first engine that I just removed,
the old engine had 28000 miles on the conversion and was running with about 35psi oil pressure and real close to 500psi on a compression test, no smoke to speak of, and I guess pretty normal blow by. I did put in a governor spring, and eventually took out all the timing shims. It sits on the stand ready for further diagnostics
During the trip in a pretty remote place I lost about half my oil pressure all at once I was running about 25psi at 60mph 10+ at idle for about 2 days, then the oil pressure went back up to about 35, a little less than usual. I changed the oil only and it did not really help. It took a few days and about a 1000 miles for me to get too a new oil filter. I cut open my oil filter and it was full of non magnetic metal. put on a new filter and drove 3500 miles home with as little delay as possible. cut that filter open and it looks clean maybe 2 or 3 little flakes. The engine was running smooth enough, but clattering pretty loud. I pulled one rod cap off and it looked normal
I plan on doing a full tear down, but I would like to know where the metal came from first.
now that the jeep is back on the road I can start the tear down
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FTE (11-13-2016)
#224
11-13-2016, 05:24 PM
The trip was awesome. I am just now taking out the camper jeep stuff and putting it back to daily driver duty. The camper jeep was a whole other story.
I will be able to get a bare bones weight tomorrow. it will be fun to see. the road scales had me in the 4350# range in camper mode with half fuel. tomorrows weight will be only driver seat, spare tire and jack.
I still have not got to the tear down yet. Talking to FTE I want to do the cylinder head tear down toward the end I am going to start from the bottom, since the compression is still good, and there was no smoke.
the metal in the filter looked like little flakes, and there were about 3 pepper corn size chunks in the bottom of the oil pan.
when I get started on the engine I think I will go thru all the rod ends first, then the accessory drive cover will come off, then the head I guess.
OH and Red, or any other Jeepers if you are still there. have you ever looked at the AX15 clutch pack for the Diesel euro jeeps???? I am looking, I think there might be a diesel specific clutch for the AX15 that was sent overseas with the 2.5 liter VM turbo diesel as OE from ? thru past 2002. any jeep folks have any leads on that I am interested
I will be able to get a bare bones weight tomorrow. it will be fun to see. the road scales had me in the 4350# range in camper mode with half fuel. tomorrows weight will be only driver seat, spare tire and jack.
I still have not got to the tear down yet. Talking to FTE I want to do the cylinder head tear down toward the end I am going to start from the bottom, since the compression is still good, and there was no smoke.
the metal in the filter looked like little flakes, and there were about 3 pepper corn size chunks in the bottom of the oil pan.
when I get started on the engine I think I will go thru all the rod ends first, then the accessory drive cover will come off, then the head I guess.
OH and Red, or any other Jeepers if you are still there. have you ever looked at the AX15 clutch pack for the Diesel euro jeeps???? I am looking, I think there might be a diesel specific clutch for the AX15 that was sent overseas with the 2.5 liter VM turbo diesel as OE from ? thru past 2002. any jeep folks have any leads on that I am interested
#225
11-14-2016, 10:10 PM
The new spare engine is running pretty well, about 100 miles so far, it runs different, and maybe a bit better. I think the governor spring makes a big difference, I thought I had got a magic pill with a new throw out bearing for the transmission rattle. The jeep is super quiet in the morning when it is not warmed up. then at full temp the gear clatter is back.
the jeep scaled at 3340# today, full fuel, spare tire and jack, some hand tools and not me.
I was running around with over a 1000#.s of extra kit this summer. I still need to remove the add a leaf, and probably just buy a couple of new leaf spring packs
I pulled all the rod caps off the old engine, the bottom side bearings all look pretty good
I am still working on some info for a Chrysler/jeep part #4864 835 this should be a clutch kit for a ax15 diesel jeep. I found the part in the UK, and it is about the same price as a new clutch in the us, without the shipping. But I really want to know a few more details about this part, and my current clutch is still working,
Does anyone know what a helix clutch hub is???
the jeep scaled at 3340# today, full fuel, spare tire and jack, some hand tools and not me.
I was running around with over a 1000#.s of extra kit this summer. I still need to remove the add a leaf, and probably just buy a couple of new leaf spring packs
I pulled all the rod caps off the old engine, the bottom side bearings all look pretty good
I am still working on some info for a Chrysler/jeep part #4864 835 this should be a clutch kit for a ax15 diesel jeep. I found the part in the UK, and it is about the same price as a new clutch in the us, without the shipping. But I really want to know a few more details about this part, and my current clutch is still working,
Does anyone know what a helix clutch hub is???
#226
11-15-2016, 09:28 AM
here is what was inside my oil pan when I got home. I saw the journals all cooked looking, and thought very bad; but I am pretty sure the discoloration is from induction hardening. A bit chunky to be driving around, I am glad it did not quit, but it was time for this little engine to take a rest
#227
12-27-2016, 09:07 PM
still no smoking gun on what made the metal in the engine. For too many days I thought I could get the crank out without pulling the pistons, I got the head off today and too me if anything it looks like it was not hot enough. the engine is on a stand, and I have been rolling it upside down and back for months, so that I hope is why the pistons have oil in them. any body got any thing to add from the combustion patterns or lack there off. ,about the only problem I have found so far was the 4 tiny little water ports in the head at the outboard sides of #1, and #4 looked pretty blocked to me
the new old engine is still kicking pretty well. about 2000 miles pn, I think doing better than the old engine, I did unscrew the rack 3 full turns, and still not a lot of smoke but it does run pretty high egt. Also locked off the wastegate, so it boosts pretty good, 18+ the old engine was rack out 2 turns or less most of the time.
the new old engine is still kicking pretty well. about 2000 miles pn, I think doing better than the old engine, I did unscrew the rack 3 full turns, and still not a lot of smoke but it does run pretty high egt. Also locked off the wastegate, so it boosts pretty good, 18+ the old engine was rack out 2 turns or less most of the time.
#228
12-28-2016, 04:00 PM
I think I may have a cause for the metal in the filter on my engine. I still have not found any parts missing the bigger pieces in my oil pan, there were only 3 of those. but I think all the flakes were from just general wear. I think it was concentrated at the #4 main bearing, not the thrust bearings, From what I have seen ALL the bearings rods and mains in the engine have wear. the #4 main journal will have to be polished or ground.
I have mixed emotions about this engine. I suppose I will go through the motions of measuring for a rebuild now that I am this far in, but I don't think there will be anything else wrong.
I just got a price for a crank polish $30. That sounds good. one of the biggest wear spots so far is on the oil seal area
I have mixed emotions about this engine. I suppose I will go through the motions of measuring for a rebuild now that I am this far in, but I don't think there will be anything else wrong.
I just got a price for a crank polish $30. That sounds good. one of the biggest wear spots so far is on the oil seal area
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Mario Aquadro (01-05-2021)
#229
01-05-2021, 05:37 PM
Spline adapter
Thanks caddy. If I could find a clean Comanche, I would seriously consider getting one, they are pretty much all rust buckets down here. I like the extra length of the truck. I just got a Dakota Extended cab about a month ago to consider as a home for this engine. I really like the Dakota. it is a bit bigger than a Ranger, but has a tighter turning circle.
But alas I have way too many Cherokees at the moment. I also bought a '01 Cherokee for this swap, but both the '01 Cherokee and the Dakota are a little too nice to tear apart as a first gen Kubota swap.
my first diesel swap with the Mercedes into a Cherokee went ok, but we all learn as we go along. I want to have a pretty bug free system before I take apart a nice running vehicle.
Ok on to todays business. There was a fellow asking about weight of the engines. my Kubota weighs 462 pounds today. I had a figure from a spec sheet that said 385# I don't know about that, maybe just a long block. Today my engine has full oil, the aluminum Carrier oil pan, an Isuzu Alt/vac pump, and a remote reservoir power steering pump, Carrier flywheel and NO flywheel cover, NO starter So That 385 weight is full on Pie in the sky dreaming. I still have to add the starter back, the adapter which is all steel and cast iron, engine mounts, and airconditioning compressor, and hardware for that, and the turbocharger, and airfilter. I would not be surprised if I put on another 100#'s.
For comparison the fully dressed jeep 4.0 that came out of the last swap was 465#'s. The fully dressed MB 617 NON turbo was 510#"s
To be honest I am quite surprised at the Kubotas weight.
my nice jeep weighs 3300# +/-, the Dakota with a camper shell weighs 4120#
I spent a bit of today getting the donor POS Cherokee stripped down a bit more. and cleaning up I pulled the clutch/brake pedal assy, and it is different than the next gen Cherokee clutch assy. I think I have a '99 clutch pedal assy floating around somewhere. that is what I was cleaning to look for.
I picked up the Kubota and put it back on the table, moved the AX15 off to the side as I won't be needing it for a while.
Enco tools had a 20% off sale, so I got the drills and reamer for the transmission mount hollow dowel holes mail order, saved me a trip to town.
Here are some more pics of the accessories. FTE you can see the spline adapter I got from HUBcity. it fits, but it is really tight. I think it is from the pain on the Kubota crank nose. I really wanted to finish the accessories first before the adapter. but I got impatient. I have a day or two until my reamer arrives, so I can get back to the accessories and the turbo.
FTE I will have a bit of a change on the Turbo. The .5" plate turned out to not be tall enough for proper clearance from the valve cover. It really looked ok in mockup. so I will either have to go with a 1" solid adapter, or a welded up 2 flange with a pipe in the middle like most of the other guys.
Rangmar, did you get any pics of your engine mounts from the jeep? Also with the Bobcat oil pan did you have to do any track bar mods on the Jeep?
But alas I have way too many Cherokees at the moment. I also bought a '01 Cherokee for this swap, but both the '01 Cherokee and the Dakota are a little too nice to tear apart as a first gen Kubota swap.
my first diesel swap with the Mercedes into a Cherokee went ok, but we all learn as we go along. I want to have a pretty bug free system before I take apart a nice running vehicle.
Ok on to todays business. There was a fellow asking about weight of the engines. my Kubota weighs 462 pounds today. I had a figure from a spec sheet that said 385# I don't know about that, maybe just a long block. Today my engine has full oil, the aluminum Carrier oil pan, an Isuzu Alt/vac pump, and a remote reservoir power steering pump, Carrier flywheel and NO flywheel cover, NO starter So That 385 weight is full on Pie in the sky dreaming. I still have to add the starter back, the adapter which is all steel and cast iron, engine mounts, and airconditioning compressor, and hardware for that, and the turbocharger, and airfilter. I would not be surprised if I put on another 100#'s.
For comparison the fully dressed jeep 4.0 that came out of the last swap was 465#'s. The fully dressed MB 617 NON turbo was 510#"s
To be honest I am quite surprised at the Kubotas weight.
my nice jeep weighs 3300# +/-, the Dakota with a camper shell weighs 4120#
I spent a bit of today getting the donor POS Cherokee stripped down a bit more. and cleaning up I pulled the clutch/brake pedal assy, and it is different than the next gen Cherokee clutch assy. I think I have a '99 clutch pedal assy floating around somewhere. that is what I was cleaning to look for.
I picked up the Kubota and put it back on the table, moved the AX15 off to the side as I won't be needing it for a while.
Enco tools had a 20% off sale, so I got the drills and reamer for the transmission mount hollow dowel holes mail order, saved me a trip to town.
Here are some more pics of the accessories. FTE you can see the spline adapter I got from HUBcity. it fits, but it is really tight. I think it is from the pain on the Kubota crank nose. I really wanted to finish the accessories first before the adapter. but I got impatient. I have a day or two until my reamer arrives, so I can get back to the accessories and the turbo.
FTE I will have a bit of a change on the Turbo. The .5" plate turned out to not be tall enough for proper clearance from the valve cover. It really looked ok in mockup. so I will either have to go with a 1" solid adapter, or a welded up 2 flange with a pipe in the middle like most of the other guys.
Rangmar, did you get any pics of your engine mounts from the jeep? Also with the Bobcat oil pan did you have to do any track bar mods on the Jeep?
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