1999 ranger yanmar to kubota v2203 swap
 

I already had a thread on the yanmar but I thought it would be best to start a new 1.
I killed the yanmar in the pursute of more hp. Way too much propane.

I started the kubota swap back in April or may. I have a 2005 kubota v2203 with under 1000 hrs. The truck is a 1999 ranger ext cab 4x4 5 speed. It was originally a 3.0 ffv v6. I bought it at auction with a bad motor. I will add pics of the swap this weekAttachment 34674
Plain old dirty complete carrier engine with pancake oilpan
Attachment 34675
New bobcat oilpan
Attachment 34676
Flywheel cover on the lathe to be turned down
Attachment 34677
Kubota flywheel after being turned down
Attachment 34678
Flywheel cover after being turned down
Attachment 34679
Same
Attachment 34680
Oilpan after a round of hammer engineering
Attachment 34681
Kubota bolted to the ranger trans
Attachment 34682
Engine with mounts and trans going into truck
Attachment 34683

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Home made turbo flange from kubota manifold to kkk ko3 vw turbo
Attachment 34684
Turbo mounted with clearance to remove valve cover with turbo in place. The turbo is a kkk k03 from a 1999 vw passat 1.8t gas 4cyl
Attachment 34685
Fuel lines and factory carrier style oil filter its a common fram filter with huge capacity.
Attachment 34686
Turbo drain fit perfectly in between cyl 1 and 2.
Attachment 34687
Current drivable condition so far 200 miles on it I will tidy up the wiring and vacuum lines as I go
Attachment 34688
Attachment 34689

Sweet! Great job... I wish I had the time, patience and skills. You aren't interested in starting a production line and making more conversions are you?

Sweet. Nice and simple. So no power steering or AC? That is how I did my Mercedes Cherokee. But I really missed not having AC in the Texas summer. I am trying to put AC on my Kubota now.
Have you put the ranger on the scales? How is it doing for MPG?

Thanks, I do intend to put power steering on it, just haven't gotten around to it yet, just arm strong steering for now. My truck never came with a/c that's why there is no a/c on it; it doesn't really get hot enough here to make it a worthy investment. As far as mileage goes, first fill up (not a sustained run) I got 203.9 miles (after adjusting 8% for the bigger tires ) it took 4.56 gallons which = 44.7 mpg. I currently live in Darrington Wa and commute almost daily to Lynnwood Wa (50miles one way) 25 miles of which are windy country roads with a speed limit of 50-5 5mph and the rest are freeway miles with a speed limit of 65mph ( although I do hit traffic for the last ten miles of the 50).

Nice! Glad to see it back on the road, can't wait to see it.

that is pretty awesome MPG. I have not decided yet which vehicle will get the Kubota, that is why I was interested in your trucks weight. Also what rear end ratio are you running?
It looks like I have the same Isuzu alternator as yours. I got mine off ebay. I have a question. What is the straight banjo fitting in the almost center of the back of the vacuum section for?? Mine has 2 copper crush washers, and the hollow bolt. From your pics it looks like you have the same fitting, but it is not connected to anything.
Do you have a part # for your oil pan? Are you happy with the size of your turbo?
You wouldn't happen to have any other pics of your trans adapter, combo I saw some of FTE's I have an idea of what I want to do with it, but it never hurts to see how others have done something

thanks

I can't remember the weight but I believe it was 4100 to 4200 when I went across the scales with the yanmar. The gears are 3.73 and I have a bigger tire than stock. A 31.2 if I remember right. The alternator/ vacuum pump is isuzu and I did get it from ebay. The center banjo bolt is a oil feed for the vac pump. I can tell u how to wire it when ur ready. It's very simple. I got a few oil pans from Lenard's diesel in California. They are cheap and he ships right away Sam is a great guy to deal with and is very interested in these swaps. The turbo is great. It was just a cheap kkk k03 from a 1999 vw passat 1.8lt gas engine it builds boost very similar to fte's and the egts stay in check. It will hit 21 psi relatively easy. I still need a slightly stiffer governor spring I'm limited to only 2500 rpm right now. My trans adaptor is almost identical to fte's I don't have all that many pics of it.

Looks great, that mileage is fantastic! Which turbo is it? KKK K03 005, 029, 073? I'm still not satisfied with my turbo, though I'm not sure my IDI will build as much boost at the DI engines. :pca1:

Thanks. The turbo is a kkk k03-005 from a 1998 or 99 passat. Works great 21 psi under light load 4-5 just crusing at 65 it will jump right to 16 without downshifting I've seen 18 overtaking and egt can't be forced above 1200 usually stalls at 1000 and creeps to 1075. I have developed a drive pressure leak I need to fix. I believe you have the same intercooler as I do? From a Volvo s80 twin turbo

nice job i also have the same alt I am using on my cummins 3.3 in a dakota wiring would be great and the oil port you spoke about can you elaborate

thanks Dennis

You have 3 ports on the vac pump 1 for vac 1 for oil and another for oil/air return.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Here's a old pic. The center spade is unused. The outers are switched on and volt meter. My ranger pulls the volt reading from the fuse box so I have both wires going to the Same switched source. It charges at 13.5 volts and is internally regulated Attachment 34663

Do you do any sort of towing or hauling with this truck? If so how does the Kubota handle it?

I still have a question about the oil for the vacuum pump. This oil inlet gets full engine oil pressure? Then the vacuum port goes to the power brake booster and the rest of the system. Where do you run the oil and air pressure output into the valve cover? How much oil goes through there? Is there an orifice or anything to control the amount of oil it gets?
I am glad I asked before I started my engine with the alternator hooked up

thanks

The vac pump gets full oil pressure. The is a small orface in the the inlet for oil. It only recievs a small amount of oil every rotation. There's 2 very small opening on the vacuum impeller for oil. I have mine in the valve cover

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Attachment 34662

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Here are some boost numbers. I had to reseal a few drive pressure leaks.
20psi @ 2250:choochoo:
18psi @ 2100
15psi at 2000
12psi @ 1700
10psi @ 1500
4-5 psi @ 1300
2psi @ 1200
2psi @ 1100

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Egts get a little high when lugging 1300 rpm @ 4-5 psi =1100 degrees and will climb if you don't let the engine rev. It has enough power to pull itself out of the low rpms and build boost this instant was in 4th gear up a step hill

So how was the yanmar set up when it blew? Are you still running water/meth injection? What happened to the compound turbos?

I believe you have me mixed up with redvolece; I never had water meth or compounds. The yanmar was turned all the way up but didn't have enough to hurt itself, couldn't push egts above 1000, always kind of lacking in power. I used propane to compensate for the lack in power. And as with any drug propane gets addictive. By the end I was using 35pounds of propane and 30+pounds of boost. Only took a few nasty propane backfires and that was the end of her.

did it have enough power or was it still lacking with that much boost? Do you know if the Kubota's have piston oil squirters?

The yanmar would be great in a 2wd truck it honestly had enough to get on the hwy and run 75 all day it averaged out at 35mpg but I always wanted more. After I drove fte's ranger and redveloce's jeep it really made me realize what I was missing out on. With my current setup I could blow th doors off my old 1. The power is down low were I wanted it. I had to wind the pi$$ out of the yanmar for it to do anything. I don't believe the v2203 has piston squirters but I'm realy not sure

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Mpg update. 374 miles x 1.08 is 403.9 divide that by 10.2 gallons at fillup is 39.6 mpg:jump: not bad with a drive pressure leak for the first 150 miles on that tank

Rangmar did you do any towing at all? If not what would your guess be on how much one could tow with either engine without going near melt down due too high EGTs?

Tha yanmar is worthless as far as that goes. The kubota seems great. I've had a 7.3 powerstroke engine in the bed (1000+ lbs) and drove 25 miles with it did fine no issues egt maybe 50 degrees warmer on the hardest pulls

I do not know much if anything about the Kubota V2203 but I do know that Big Trucks with there Turbo Diesels like to be loaded down a bit. I think that is where the Turbo Diesel really shines over a gas engine.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Just had to say you did one Heck of a Good Job. :tu:

I will be getting an adapter plate soon for my swap. And to be sure there will be lots of questions to come :w2:.

As some members may know I tend to be well a bit HYPER when I am excited about a project so I will apologize before hand if I seem to get a little oh NUTS :scare2:. :jump:

But I am learning to take one thing at a time. So first will be mating the trans to the engine then move on from there.

I appreciate the complement. Hera are some pics fte ask me to post I have a working tach now thanks to some redneck engineering fte had the idea with his and I adapted it to mine.
Attachment 34646http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o673/Ethanolsen77/image_zps681c650c.jpg
Attachment 34647
I used the factory crank sensor and hard wired it directly to the signal wire on the tach on the back of the gauge cluster I then measured and drilled 3 holes on the crank pulley (2 for a 4cyl 3 for a 6cyl) and a switched positive to the crank sensor
Attachment 34648
ignore the airbag light I have to go through a dot inspection before I can remove it and add 8% for my tires so its at 60

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I have found my first negative about the kubotaAttachment 34649
It is lighter in the front now so it's a bit squirrely if I'm not careful and its a bit of a hand full trying to tame that much torque at 1500 rpm. But I think a winch in the front and a lighter foot will solve the issues

Could compensate by adding a stainless steel bumper. It'll add an extra 100lbs or so.

great Idea for the tach. The holes are related to the Original engine 3 holes if you removed a 6 cyl, and 2 holes if you removed a 4cyl??? and just 12 volts ignition switched to the tack pickup. but not going through the ECM?
Also what did you guys do for a pilot bearing on trans to flywheel?

The original tach feed had a relucter wheel with 39 teeth it went to the computer and the computer would send the correct signal to he tach I'm just bypassing he computer. The pilot bearing is factory bearing and is in the kubota flywheel.

Did you make a bushing for the pilot bearing or bore out the flywheel. What clearance on the bearing. I guess I can just copy the clearance from what it comes off of. I hope to pull the engine and trans out of the jeep the middle of this week, The Kubota accessory drive is almost finished. I guess I should start my own build thread

thanks for the info so far

I think you may have one other small problem. It looks Darn COLD:ouch: But then again I am From and In South TEXAS lol. We just Melt.

All I know is after all of the reading I am doing I will still need to ask lots of questions. Great idea on the Tach. But since my truck has a distributor and not a sensor I will have to figure out something else for all of the gauges that I will need. As I would like to have EGT,Tach and of course Boost.

I forgot to add that it is not a Compliment it is a FACT. Very nice job.

What about dropping the factory dash and buy individual gauges instead?

The tach set-up we used will work on older rigs as well. The reason we went off the back of the guage is to bypass the ECU. I used an ABS sensor, any two wire one will work, or a crank trigger, they work the same. On older units with distributers will be less complicated, all you need to do is hook the tach wire that came off the dist. and hook it to one of the two wires on the sensor, the other to 12v.

Did you put in two Magnets for the pickup to pick up from? I can not really tell in the picture what was done to the bottom pulley to enable the pick up to well pick up lol. And since I have a 4 Cylinder then I would need two contacts correct?

Very spiffy idea I must say. :tu:

What is a good Combination Gauge to use for EGT/Boost? I was looking at one of these GlowShift 3 in 1 gauges. GlowShift | 3 in 1 Diesel Combo Gauge - Pyrometer EGT, Digital Boost and Temperature Gauges

I drilled holes and cleaned up the sharp edges all you need is an interuption. yours will need to be 180degreee apart. The notches you drill need to be about a 1/2 wide otherwise the tach will "blur" out at a higher rpm. I am using a glow shift 3in1. best bang for your buck in my opinion, but anything will work.

One more dumb question. How deep would I need to make the holes? Ok two dumb questions. If I went to an auto parts store what pickup should I ask for?

Thank You very much.

Fte used a speed sensor from a ford ranger rear end I use my factory crank sensor from my old 3.0v6. 1/4 deep should do fine

I think this may not matter but I will ask anyway. Does it matter where I put the two holes as long as they are 180 degrees apart?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I was looking at the GlowShift 3 in1 Black Face with the EGT needle but it only goes to 1500F as I liked the Digital Readout for the Boost Gauge as it will go higher than 15LBS and looks more accurate than a needle. Sorry all this stuff is pretty darn new to me.

Hey Rangmar. I almost forgot to ask. What happened to your Cherokee? Was it 2 or 4wd? The reason I am asking. I wanted to try and use the Carrier aluminum oil pan if it will fit? My Cherokees are 2wd. it looks like it may fit, the close part is going to be the carrier oil pan and the attach points for the upper control arm on the jeep axle. I was going to pull the engine from the jeep today, but I got busy working on a Turbo exh adapter instead.
This jeep I got is a Real POS especially on the inside. I don't know how an interior can get so dirty. I need to hit the whole thing hard with the pressure washer maybe that is why I procrastinated it today.

My cherokee was a 4x4. My buddy had begged me since I bought it to see it to him. It had a factory Dana 44 in the rear. He will be putting a kubota in it with my adapters. The carrier pan hit the upper control arms with any suspension movement but the bobcat pan fit perfect

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

:jump:mpg update :jump:40.1:jump:
312x1.08 to correct for tires is 336.9 divide that by 8.4 gallons
40 mpg in a 4x4 truck with 31 inch mud tires !!!!!! Woohoo

Sorry to keep getting back to the Cherokee. I am curious what your flywheel set back ended up at? and how thick did you turn down your flywheel housing too.
I believe the ford guys are turning the flywheel housings down to 1/2" thick, curious if it was the same for the jeep???

thanks

I had left the jeep/kubota completely stock. I had mated the jeep flywheel to the kubota flywheel with a .5 inch thick steel ring as to use the jeep relucter wheel There are better ways to do this with 1 flywheel I was copying the yanmar setup.

ok I remember now I think. you had the double stacked flywheels. for my conversion I am planning to mimick FTE and Used Kubotaman. and I guess you. with the shaved flywheel housing, and a steel adapter plate.
We now have pretty increased speed limits in Texas, there is a section just north of me with posted 85mph speed limit. Pretty much all the big highways are 75mph now I know it is probably a bit high, but How does the Kubota do at 2600 rpm cruise. My Dakota is running just a hair under 2500 at 78mph. I will need a bit more speed than that. but 2550 to 2600. The Dakota has a 3.2:1 rear end. the jeep is 3.08:1, I think that will be a very good ratio.

thanks

thanks