Rangmar I hope I am not too late. But I would check with the people that you plan to use to put on the Ceramic coating. As in if you were planning to do this to the inside of the Exhaust manifold it may come off near the exhaust port and take out the vanes on the turbo.

We tried doing that a number of years ago and that is exactly what happened. But the application of Ceramic Coating and or the Chemicals involved may be of much higher Quality today so it would not be a worry.

On this subject FTE and I talked about having the factory Exhaust manifold Extrude honed or to fabricate a brand new exhaust from thick wall tubing. And also on Sams web site he does have a large center 4 bolt flange exhaust manifold designed for use with a Turbo that might even flow better than what we have now. Though I have not yet personally held on in my hand to confirm this but the pictures look darn good.

The people who do the ceramic coating said they do this all the time for high end drift cars and the guys at ddp there 1000 hp race truck. Fte has one of those turbo manifolds and I believe he intends on running it when he gets time go build the adaptor

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I decided to hook up the glow plugs. Here is a pic at the first attempt. I will update with a parts list as i go

1988-94 7.3l glow plug controller. 77 bucks at autozone
It has a self timer built it.
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That is good to hear how things have improved since the stone age lol.

Made my first hard pull today monroe wa to leavenworth wa. Over us2 (stevens pass) 4056 ft had no issues pulled the hardest east bound 55mph @13-15 lbs of boost 4th gear at 2200 rpm and saw 1075 egt. I could have easily went faster but 55 is a comfortable speed for that road. If I was in 5th I say the egt try to work their way up to 1150-1175
Overall a great run saw a few things I want to improve on but for a 4200 lbs 4x4 truck with 32 inch tires and 3 passengers I think it did great

That is great that you felt it did well. But since probably many people have no idea what road you were driving on then we have no real knowledge base to use the information you gave? Or it could be that I am slow and missed it lol.

Except that you did state that you wished to improve a few things. Which items do you wish to improve?

Nice! Sounds a lot like the trip over Mt Hood US26 that I did this fall. Mine had 7% grade and I would suspect that you were pulling the same % as well, can't remember for sure but seemed like it the last time I was on it.

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Well to help you understand, we start out at just a little above sea level and top the pass at over 4000ft in just a few miles(10-20 mi or so). That's a lot of altitude in a short distance.

Thanks fte. It's 6% for 7 miles going east until you reach the summit
As far as improvements I still need to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets and I think my pinion bearing in my front diff is taking a sh!t Its starting to growl at me. Thanks fte for reminding me about submerging it I pulled the plug and about 2 quart came out of the fill hole. I think the damage is already done though I wanted a reason to put a LSD or a arb air locker in anyway.
I'm planning on dropping the manifold of to get ceramic coated as well as the turbo snail as soon As sam gets my gaskets and everything else. He was waiting on the 90 degree t-stat housing.

I have a 90* t-stat housing if you want it. BTW, they point directly left, not straight forward.

Sent from my SPH-D710VMUB using Tapatalk

https://parts-barn.com/index.php/cat...076/image/169/
This is what Sam has.

It's the same one. I guess it would point left or right, but I need one that points forward.

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I dropped of my manifold and exhaust housing off to be ceramic coated today. I also took redveloce exhaust housing and manifold. I took some pics comparing the two. My turbo is the darker colored one. Redveloce has the same turbo as fte. Attachment 34454
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You can see in this pic cyl 1 and 4 exhaust gasket gave out Also took a pic of my motor without the manifold so you can see how I did the oil line
I used hard brake line
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Rangmar FTE and I talked about the KO3 Turbo VS The Turbo FTE Runs. And he mentioned that when boost went up his EGT Started to climb more than what your would. And maybe the cause of this is due to the fact of the smaller exit hole for the exhaust of the Turbo FTE Runs VS the almost 3" round exhaust of the KO3 Turbo. Just a thought. But I am sure FTE and yourself are working on that part. :)

That is indeed amazing. The power is pretty remarkable and i just love the grunt.

I run the same turbo as FTE, and my EGT is pretty steady during hard high RPM pulls. I have noticed that it has a bit more power and seems happier if I have the gate opening a bit earlier, despite running less boost (like 23 vs 27PSI). I don't have a drive pressure gauge, but I suspect the turbine housing is a choke point when you're getting close to 3000RPM pulling hard.

BTW, I'm running 2.25" exhaust, but will be switching to 3" with a much straighter shot in a few weeks, so we'll see if that makes any difference.

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I got the manifold and turbo back from the ceramic coater today. I'm amazed at how well the cleaned up the inside of the manifold.

Looks very nice. :)

I got mine back together with the ceramic coated turbo manifold and turbine housing. Only one drive so far, and it's hard to really know much difference, because they said to take it easy the first couple heat cycles. It also doesn't help that the car I borrowed while the Jeep was down is a 300HP Sports car, so my performance meter is a beat tweaked...

It does seem to be happier in the low revs than it was before though. I'll need to put some miles on it to be sure I can reproduce, but I was running about 1200RPM in 5th @ 35mph and was staying just at or under 500 degrees EGT on a road that it usually runs around 600 in 4th gear. The few other times I've tried 5th before on the same road it would be at around 800-900.

Attachment 34380

HI Red, looks good, It looks like the manifold in the picture is different than the standard Carrier manifold. Is that a turbo manifold?

Yea he's running the v2003t manifold . Looks great very clean and the new adaptor looks awesome

How is the ceramic coating going? If you results are still positive? I am interested in doing mine. If you don't mind my asking what was the cost? Who did the work? and where are they located?

Ceramic coating worked out great. Egts are less, boost comes up even quicker bottom end especially. Picked up about 2lbs max boost and mpg went from 39 avg highway to 42.7 driving from Monroe Wa to fte's house near Portland running 75mph most of the way. It cost 120 I got it done at Pacific Performance Coatings in/near Auburn wa ( I am pretty sure that was what the place is called , redveloce found this place) they did really good work and took time to really clean my exhaust housing and manifold up.

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Sorry for everyone who has tried to contact me for engines. I have been very busy with work and I have not had a chance to get back with anyone. I currently have a shipment of five low hour engines ( all under 2000 hours, most near 1300hrs), one of which fte has already purchased. They are 2006 model year di motors, $1200 each and I do warranty them. Shipping may be available, pm me for my phone #.

great thanks. I think I will send off my manifold and turbo housing so they will be ready when I get home from work in 5 weeks. I guess I have to pre-fab a turbo adapter to send that off.
I saw some pretty interesting stuff when I was researching the ceramic coating sites. I guess they can do the pistons tops and undersides as well. this may be something to consider instead of working toward piston oil squirters.
did you buy a governor spring or make one?

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Wow under 2000 hours that is practically new

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The place I saw that does the internal coatings is performance coatings, Auburn WA, I would guess that is the place.

Thanks Rangmar for the motor! Mine has only 1136 hrs. and I fired it up shortly after he left. It started right up, nice and smooth! Now.... what to put it in???? Also I had the pleasure of driving his truck, it spools very fast and pulls hard! I am very impressed with the coating, will have to do it as well.

Hi

My name is Phil Im in south central PA. I have a 97 Ranger Auto 4X4 that really needs a Kubota I would like to join the conversation and learn what I need for the conversion. I have read a lot of the Ranger threads but not all. so I hope these questions haven't been covered too many times previously.

1.Most of you guys are using manual trans. does the auto work ok? I commute 100 miles a day in traffic and would like to keep the auto.

2. Most vehicles dont seem to have and air conditioning compressor installed. is there an accessory plate available that would help with power steering and AC?

3 Rangmar Id be interested in one of your engines. where are they located and do you ship?

I guess thats it for now, Thanks for your help in advance

Hi Phil welcome to the thread. To answer you questions. My truck came with a manual trans and that's why I used it also less electronics. You should have a 5r55e 5 speed auto if your a 4.0 or a 4r55e if your a 3.0. They are full electronic transmissions and would require some sort of controler to function or find a way to allow your computer to still control it.
My truck never had a/c and i don't know of any acc. brackets avail. Most of us built our own.
I do ship the engines pm me for more info

It is a 5R55E 4.0, it has 200K on it so Ill research the best way to work around it. I guess that will be one of the first decisions. any ideas from the group. ?

Rangmar Im interested in doing a kubota ranger swap. Are there any problems that have been confronted with an automatic overdrive tranny as far as shift points with others that you know of? I know the later transmissions will need electronic controlling in order to function, but what about say a 200R4 or an equivilant Ford auto that wouldnt need electro control. Im definitely not opposed to a manual but the better half may want to drive it too and she "prefers" the auto.

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I would like to do a 4x4 Ranger but it doesnt have to be as I have an F-150 and an F-250 that are should I need it. What kind of mileage are the 2wd trucks getting? Is there any model that would be more desireable or things I need to look for in buying a truck for the swap?

How much are you getting for a suitable engine which I am assuming would be a V2203 shipped to Tulsa?

Hey Freedom92 do your self a favor and get a manual tranny truck. The auto in these things are so intertwined with the engine it would be nearly impossible to get it to work properly. The computer uses engine temp, throttle position, air temp, engine rpm and possibly a couple more inputs all to run the automatic trans. I'm in the middle of putting a v2203 in mine and I converted to a manual trans instead of all the headaches associated with the auto tranny. An older version such as a AOD would be OK the only thing to worry about it is a kick down linkage , it adjust the shift points and gives you your passing gear.

Yeah thats most likely what I will do. I wouldnt mind an old AOD tranny but dont know how compatible it would be with a newer transfer case.

Well I now have a 2000 3.0 auto 4x4 Ranger. Time to start gathering parts. I will be converti g it to a 5 speed unless someone on here can co vince me that an auto will work. What are the optimal parts to look for as far as trannies. I know some are better than others but dont know model numbers. Im assuming an M5OD is the trannie to look for but is a pre-98 the zame as one lroduced after 98? Theres alot of useful info on here and ALOT of experience that Im gonna needto tap in to.

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Well I now have a 2000 3.0 auto 4x4 Ranger. Time to start gathering parts. I will be converti g it to a 5 speed unless someone on here can co vince me that an auto will work. What are the optimal parts to look for as far as trannies. I know some are better than others but dont know model numbers. Im assuming an M5OD is the trannie to look for but is a pre-98 the zame as one lroduced after 98? Theres alot of useful info on here and ALOT of experience that Im gonna needto tap in to.

I would stick with the year and model for your truck to minimize any fit issues. I have found the greatest supply and lowest price on these trannys are in Oregon and Washington state. Several of the salvage yards there are advertising on e-bay that is where I got mine. Let them know you are doing an auto to manual conversion and they will possibly send you more than just a tranny. Do your home work as far as what the swap will need. I have a drawing of the 3.0 bell housing pattern if you would like it for an adapter plate. The electronic transfer cases are the same with either the auto or the manual on a four wheel drive. I got my tranny from simpsonused parts 877-246-7278 these people were outstanding. They sent me the interior shifter plates,wiring harness, and an original flywheel with my tranny. I would recommend using the Kubota flywhell though. Less adapters are always better and my Kubota flywheel turned out beautiful very clean setup with the Kubota star

a few questions
 

How did you convert the turned down flywheel cover into an adaptor? Is it strong enough? I picked up a v2203idi I want to swap into my 95 ranger, keeping everything else stock. Was a 2.3 4 cyl manual m5od 4x4. Reg cab. 300k on the truck and want to swap in the diesel. Will the idi take a turbo? Lol do you still have $1200 di motors for sale? Thanks, been reading all your posts for awhile. Hope you don't mind me pm'ing you

We had the flywheel cover milled down to 1/2 in thickness to use as part of the adapter. Then a 1/4 in steel plate with the trans bolt pattern attached to that. It's plenty strong.

The IDI will take a turbo but will not produce or the boost or HP that a DI will. I have both, the DI is much more desirable! The DI gets better MPG too.

The truck was getting 19mpg so I'd imagine the idi would do better. Forgot to say, I'm wanting to keep everything else stock, the 4 bangers m5od, and all, it has 4.10 gears factory. And I was running 32x10.50-15s. What can I expect with this combo?

IDI VS DI

Direct injection diesels are as much as 15 percent more efficient than IDI diesels in terms of thermal efficiency. Power and torque output is up to 40 percent better with DI. Additionally, fuel consumption is up to 30 percent less, and that means carbon dioxide and hydrocarbon emissions are reduced by a similar amount. The transition of the burning gases from the precombustion chamber to the cylinder in IDI diesels results in significant heat losses into the cylinder head and cylinder walls, which reduces efficiency.

On these engines are the blocks pistons rods etc the same or at least interchangeable? Could a guy simply switch out the idi head for a di head? I've only got $800 in the motor. Bought it of some hillbilly that was try to get it started with a battery charger. Paid $300. Got it home and eliminate all the refer related wires and got it to crank. No fuel, discovered the rack on the injection pump was seized from sitting with contaminated fuel. $500 to have the pump rebuilt. Now it starts instantly and sounds great. Would I be better off using this for a genset or skid steer repower and save to get a idi motor?

Best of my knowledge the blocks are the same along with crank and rods.

You will need new pistons, head injection pump and plumbing. Not sure about govenor or cam shaft though.you could sell your IDI and recoupe most of what would be needed to get a DI.

Ken

Injection pump and injection pump camshaft are different too.

Hey rangmar im new here and am interested in the kubota swap. I live in dfw but would like to buy an adapter. Do you still manufacture them? Nice build by the way, im very impressed.