Hello all, I am new to the diesel life and helping my dad out with his truck. He has an F350 Super Duty turbo 2003 6.0 extended cab with 6 foot bed. The truck is babied to say the least and extremely well taken care of. ERG valve was replaced right after it was purchased. 4 glow plugs replaced, 3 injectors, new wiring harness, clutch fan, and alternator (2009) after the truck broke down in KY brining home round pens. The High volume oil pump was replaced about 3 months ago and the ICR valve was replaced at the same time as recommended.

When the pump was put on the truck would produce a radical idle and would not stop. (It would start up on high idle and not idle back down) After driving it for about 10 hours total it started idling normal after warming up. After parking it for a couple of days and starting it again the truck now shuts itself off when you put your foot on the break as though you have shut the key off and will not restart. A friend told dad to make sure the truck wasnt leaking oil because this could cause the issue. He found a hose on the bottom not put back after the high volume oil pump had been replaced. It was reconnected and ran fine for 2 weeks. Now it is back to shutting itself off again when you touch the brake. Any help is greatly appreicated.
Thanks,
dieselchicnewb

 

Couple of things to check, check to make sure the plugs are all the way in and snapped into the FICM, it sits on top of the drivers side valve cover. the hose that wasn't hooked up? did you mean under the hood or under the engine??? probably the map sensor that goes from intake to the cowl area by turbo?? any way to get it on a scanner, it should be obvious what is causing this. 03 and 04 trucks are notorious for having bad ICP sensors that are located on the drivers side of the HPOP, usually make the truck cut out at idle and makes for hard starting, but don't just go out and buy one, have it scanned first because that little sensor is pricey.

 

Thanks! I just talked with dad, he has checked the all the plugs and went over the truck with a fine tooth comb after getting it back from being worked on. For clarification the line (that I thought was a hose my apologies) was sucking air and back by the High Volume Oil Pump, and it has been addressed and working fine. He had it scanned this evening and just was told that there were no errors being thrown. He is going to replace the ICP now to see if that is the culpert. Hopefully this is it! Will update you as soon as the part is on.

 

while you are back there replacing the ICP go ahead and pull the IPR valve even though it is new and check the screen on it to make sure it isn't clogged or screen damaged, if it is replace the screen, you don't have to buy the whole unit, seems this is kind of common after HPOP replacement, they don't always get all the junk out.

 

Ok, will do and will definately make sure to follow up for the outcome of replacing the ICP and the IPR screen. Thanks for your knowledge and help with this!

 

I've seen it a few times even with a new IPR, it gets plugged up again right after HPOP install, due to crud in the system.

As for the truck running rough when you got it back after the HPOP it just needed the air bled out of the system, sounds normal.

 

Well the ICP was replaced today after we had a diagnostic ran, which in fact did show it was the ICP which needed replaced, all other test came back excellent and functioning perfectly. Dad was impressed that he could change the ICP in 20 minutes and that was about the highlight of the day. But it still wont start. Is it possible there is a fuse which controls the idle/fuel and links the brake to it as well? This is becoming very frustrating! The oddity is that while it was extremely cold out, the truck would start but when you touched the brake it would shut down like turning off the key. Is there any other thought on what may be causing this? Thanks again!

 

I know there is a link between the computer and the brake pedal because when it is warming up and goes to high idle it will go to normal idle as soon as you touch the brakes. I would try to disconnect the brake switch that should be on the pedal and see if it still happens, do this only to diagnose the problem and don't drive it like this because you won't have brake lites.

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OH YEAH, if your old man changed the icp sensor on an 03 6.0 in 20 minutes then he is the MAN

 

Headed to garage to try this now.

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OK unplugging the sensor on the brake pedal did not change the effect. It still will not start.