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83 6.2 ran dry need help priming

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  #21  
Old 03-26-2010, 05:24 PM
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It's 20 degrees in Chicago god I'm glad I live south of you I think were done with that for the year.

The wires on the starter are fuse-able links. There are three of them and they will need to be fixed before we go further they pretty much supply everything. You know how I know that? short story Me and my wife girlfriend at the time where going down the highway at 3 am after a night of young dumb partying. It was raining and yea it was cold. Then all of the sudden nothing no light, gauges, engine nothing. I had now tools not even a flash light. So I am out there crawling around on this thing with a cell phone for light and found one of them burned rigged it to a hot and were off. It may not be the fast thing but it's an adventure.

If you need heads,block,injector pump,injectors, or any thing else I could help you but I have no starters. I never have anything I need if I got it it don't brake if I don't got it it breaks. I just had to buy one for my 6.5 I wish it was $200 try $370.

Get everything together and let me know.
 
  #22  
Old 03-26-2010, 05:39 PM
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Hey Hey Hey , thanks for getting back to me, with your ideas and knowledge, so Im thinking you are right , I have asked about 4-5 people including parts people and NO one knows if the wires leading down to the solenoid have anything to do with anything else , but I just checked on here and TAAAA DAAAAA you confirmed it did , and for that I thank you ....

Ok Found the ohm meter .... is there a trick to reading a glow plug (positive on spade and negitive on ground) ? I checked 4 (lazyness again)of the plugs thinking maybe I dont know how to use a ohm meter , its been a few years no lie , but all 4 read mmm just a little under zero. HHAHAHAHAH OMG I HATE MY LIFE I found a used starter on ebay , Yes I know taking a chance , a biggun BUT atleast its cheaper then the 165 - 200 dollars in the " Standard " replacement starter its a chance I am going to take , I have too devils duece she is a man and money eater .. Quick question where are the fuseable links located, are they easy to spot , I was only under there for a couple minutes the other day ..... IM opening a exchange program up , your working diesel dually for my non working ... (was working b4 I touched it)
so any ohm meter Ideas , always welcome. Fellow diesel buddies LOL give me a couple days to get parts and try to take this farther, my money well ran dry LOL talk to you all soon if u dont have any ideas or comments :-) Mike ..........
 

Last edited by mjp5318; 03-26-2010 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Because I didnt put the N after soo to make the word soon :-)
  #23  
Old 03-26-2010, 10:36 PM
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Hey there, The wires if the the ones I am thinking of don't lead down to the starter the lead from the starter. The ones I am thinking of there should be three of them and they bolt to the solenoid. They all go to the same lug and they look like a fat wire they may even be a bit spongy. They also probably have a place that looks like a factory spice in them because it is.There are two more just like them on the fire wall just so you know in case. So you have a total of five wires at the starter one big one to the battery, one smaller one to the ignition, and three that take power to the rest of the truck. I know it seams weird to take the power from after the starter but it takes the most to run so it gets first dibs. If they look burned or broke or the insulation is gone they need to be replaced. You have to use a fuse-able link in them don't try to put a normal wire in place of them a burned link is a pain in the but a burned truck is a bigger one. You should be able to get them at any parts store and you just cut out the old one and splice in the new one.

Don't hate your life it's just a truck and glow plugs. Ask questions like you are doing. I don't mind answering the to the best of my knowledge(I'm siting here watching my two year old watch the jungle book on my 50" flat screen I don't have a lot going on) and learn something along the way how do you think I know what I do I am not a mechanic I just have owned enough old stuff and always worked on it my self you pick up a thing or two.

If you take the Ohm meter and hook the leads together dose it shoot up to the highest reading. A direct connection or does it stay at zero infinity? You want it to go all the way up. It sounds like you are doing it right. I doesn't mater positive to neg. just as long as there touching what there supposed to good and not each other or you aren't touching the probes some of them will read the resistance through you. I would't call it lazyness checking just 4 you didn't know if you where doing it right and if 4 read 0 there is no sense in checking the others there bad. Try pulling one out? if it unscrews but won't pull out you know what that means, there melted over and then you know there bad and you get to do all the steps I talked about on an earlier post don't worry its not as bad as it sounds. Buy the starter of ebay if its priced right and funds are tight just make sure even though its a pain it the butt to put the bracket on the front of it i know it sucks just had to fight with one on my 6.5 but if you don't it will most likely break the front of the starter or worse break the block I don't know that from me doing it I know it from welding them up after people leave them of.

I can't do an exchange. First thing is I have no dually close I come is a 94 1ton single wheel crew cab standard shift 4 wd. It's more my dad than mine we have a strange relationship we don't worry about who's is what we use what we need and help each other keep them going. Besides it's beat up pretty good and has between 400,000 and 1,000,000 miles on it don't know odometer quit working. I have a 95 3/4 ton 4x4 I drive every day that is going to be for sale just as soon as I get my 98 together gota have the ext. cab. As for my 6.2 it not dually but it is 3/4 4x4 on 35's three reasons I will never be able to get rid of it 1 to much money in it it has a 6.2 I built for it. It has Federal mogul Teflon coated pistons total seal ring it's been balanced(best thing I did to it) set up tight hold 70psi oil pressure at idle, j heads that have been worked and a turbo just as soon as I get time to put it on it. 2 I love this truck wife loves it daughter loves it. 3 I am friends with the guy I bought it from daughter and she get's teer'ed up when she see's it and would kill me if it left.

Save money get parts and let me know when your working on it if you have any questions. You can post them here or to make sure I get them you can send me on of those thingys I don't know what you call them I suck with my computer. Hey there's a problem you can help me with how do you get the smilies on your post i can't get mine to work? I don't always know every thing but I am happy to give you my best opinion happy to help. Phil

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

If I lose you with any of what I throw out there just let me know. and I know the post are a little long and I am not try to insult your mechanical ability's I don't know what they are and am try to explain them to the best of my ability's
 

Last edited by 2MuchJunk; 03-26-2010 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  #24  
Old 04-01-2010, 09:14 PM
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Alright thanks to everyone that has been helping me , I am getting the parts in to fix the truck and I am trying to get the glow plugs functioning again. I just replaced the glow plug solenoid, and no luck , the system isnt firing the plugs up . I want to say in a previous post i stuck ohm meter to the plugs and 4 out of 8 registered 0

I started pulling the glow plugs out and they all appear in like new condition. Now I have no clue as to why they are not doing there cycling they dont even click on so what is the probleM ? glow plug controller ? I need to get these plugs firing to get the truck to start to see if the system is officially wett HAHHA this is too much fun .. But I managed to pick up a reman starter and glow plugs for 150 dollars, Yea I know cheap, but cant beat a deal, but there being shipped should have them in a day or two, so any ideas how to fix this glow plug situation would be much appreciated ..
 

Last edited by mjp5318; 04-01-2010 at 09:17 PM.
  #25  
Old 04-01-2010, 09:33 PM
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Easiest way to test glow plugs is with a battery charger. Clamp the ground on the threads, then touch the positive on the blade. Be sure to set it on 10 amps, then run the + on the blade. A good spark, it's good, slight spark, may want to replace, no spark, it's burnt out.
 
  #26  
Old 04-01-2010, 09:37 PM
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Default Glow plugs

Originally Posted by RAM CR 24V
Easiest way to test glow plugs is with a battery charger. Clamp the ground on the threads, then touch the positive on the blade. Be sure to set it on 10 amps, then run the + on the blade. A good spark, it's good, slight spark, may want to replace, no spark, it's burnt out.
Hey there :-) thanks for the advice , funny thing is I did test that as a matter of fact the other day to just to confirm the ohm meter was actually correct. I mean barely touching some of these glow plugs I cant test because the actual blades fell off before I could even unplug the wire, BUT I hae new plugs that should be here in a day or so , but the when and with the new solinoid , the controller doesnt " click " with ignition on , it doesnt do anything , but there is still juice going to the plugs, I dont want to burn out the new ones .
 
  #27  
Old 04-01-2010, 10:19 PM
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If they tested 0 there bad if the blades fell of then it doesn't mater. If you unplug the solenoid power does it click off? If it does then when you hook the power back on if it clicks back on and stays on I would say the controller is bad. If it was my truck I would do away with the automatic glow plugs and make the manual with a button on the dash. This pretty well does away with the chance of them sticking on. If this is the way you want to go let me know and I can give you details on how to do it I have a truck that I did the same thing on. Don't hook the new plugs up unless you have a quick way of disconnecting the power to them like 8 sec. fast.
 
  #28  
Old 04-01-2010, 10:48 PM
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Default glow plug controller

Originally Posted by 2MuchJunk
If they tested 0 there bad if the blades fell of then it doesn't mater. If you unplug the solenoid power does it click off? If it does then when you hook the power back on if it clicks back on and stays on I would say the controller is bad. If it was my truck I would do away with the automatic glow plugs and make the manual with a button on the dash. This pretty well does away with the chance of them sticking on. If this is the way you want to go let me know and I can give you details on how to do it I have a truck that I did the same thing on. Don't hook the new plugs up unless you have a quick way of disconnecting the power to them like 8 sec. fast.
Well Im thinking its the glow plug controller myself, but I found the solenoid for 16 bucks new so it was a shot in the dark , but the plugs do not click on or off, key turned on no clicking no nothing ~~~ Power is automatic to glow plugs, I ran a voltage meter to them and a test light and confirmed that they all are getting straight power. So what do we think ? Replace the controller next ? U tell me phil I will follow your lead. If you think that I should ditch the controller so be it , but then I need to know how to by pass the controller ..
 
  #29  
Old 04-01-2010, 11:22 PM
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I would ditch the controller. I have had three different truck have them stick on and don't trust them as far as I can throw them some may disagree but I am reasonably sure when I let off the button the plugs are not burning. Another nice thing is with some getting used to you can decide how long they burn. I will look at my truck tomorrow and get details on how I did it and will let you know. It's been along time since I done it and can't remember every detail right now.
 
  #30  
Old 04-03-2010, 08:31 PM
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Hey everyone , I successfully ditched the glow plug controller (easy operation), but I am still waiting for my new glow plugs before I can try to start her up again .. so bare with me ..
 


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