Tie Rrod End?
Ok here is the deal, had bad wear on the ol mega cab. took it in for an alignment expecting some type of problem, and here it is. They told me the right outer front tie rod end is bad. They also told me they would steal me for $256, which included the idea of just about doubling the price of the tie rod end from NAPA, I called myself to verify. Anyhow, I boogied out of there and now here I am. I ordered the part for tomorrow and I am planning on fixing it myself, I just need to know how to do it. I got the jack up, tire off and measure the tie rod. However, I am a step for step guy. Does anybody have any help they can offer for me. Insider tips perhaps. Tools of the trade? Your help would be greatly appriecated.
The most important tool of the trade here is a big hammer. If it had no caster or camber problems you can use a tape measure to set the toe in fairly close after replacing the tie rod end. Take the cotter pin out and loosen the nut several turns then hit the tie rod end on the side as hard as you can until it pops loose from the steering knuckle.loosen the clamp bolt on the adjusting sleeve and count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from it. Screw the new one the same number of turns and put the stud into the knuckle. tighten the nut and put in the cotter pin. Now loosen the other clamp bolt on the sleeve so you can do the fine adjusting. After you have the tire back on take a marker that you can see on the rubber and spin the tire to put a mark all the way around. You need to do this on both tires. Now you need a friend to help and the trusty tape measure. Roll the truck back and forth several times to let the suspension settle back into the proper position. Now with the friends help measure at the marks on the front and back of the tire and compare the measurements. Adjust the sleeve until the front is about 1/8 inch closet than the rear. Role it one more time and double check the measurements and if it is still close tighten the clamp bolts. It wouldn't hurt to have the alignment rechecked afterward but it should be very close.
when you are taking your old one off make sure you count the number of turns it takes to come off. dont forget! then put the new one on the same nuber of turns. when i did mine i forgot to count and it took forever trying to get the new one where it needed to be. good luck.
As of now the outer tie rod was replaced, however in the process I ruined the rubber boot on the drag link bar trying to seperate them. Now I guess I am in for changing that out. I do have another question though? I am pulling to one side and I really dont think that the tie rod was bad, how do I tell if I need to change the Ball joints. The play on the passenger side tire is much more noticable than that on the drivers side. I am thinking that it is either the ball joint or the main wheel bearing. How do I check for these? Right now it is more side to side movement than up and down on the tire. Drivers side is almost rock steady.\
Thanks!
Thanks!
The Idler arm night be bad to cause the play. Have someone wiggle the steering wheel while you are watching underneath and you should be able to see the idler arm move up and down. The easiest way to check the ball joints is to jack up under the lower control arm to take the spring load and then use a pry bar under the tire to see if the lower ball joint is bad and between the upper control arm and steering knuckle to see if the upper ball joint is bad. You might also have bad control arm bushings. Look at the bushings and if the rubber in them looks cracked and squeezing out they need replaced.The strut rod bushing is another thing to look at for worn or cracked rubber. The last thing i can think of is a separating tire can make one pull but it is often the tire opposite the direction of pull that is bad.



