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  #11  
Old 04-09-2014, 06:47 PM
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Even see if you can take them 2 bolts out and bend that thing up and out of your way. Then just bolt it back down if you don't wanna try to get the other bolts.


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  #12  
Old 04-10-2014, 12:40 PM
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That worked. Unfortunately the engine reacted the same way on all of them. Bogged down as a gas engine would with the spark plug removed.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Also I checked the GPs except the one I can't find, thinking it's behind the starter or something like that. They are all tight.
 

Last edited by GMeff; 04-10-2014 at 12:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #13  
Old 04-10-2014, 12:58 PM
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That thing sounds like one cylinder is just pumping air like an air compressor. I thought for sure it would have a dead cylinder. That thing has a vacuum pump on it that controls the EGR valve. Pull the line off the EGR valve and see if it has constant vacuum. I would make a blocker plate and get rid of that EGR altogether. To me it sounds like a major leak like GP or exhaust manifold or even a dead cylinder. If you can't find any leaks my next step would be a compression test. It's driving me nuts that I can't stand there and look and listen in person. Can you tell which side it sounds more dominant on? High or low?


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  #14  
Old 04-10-2014, 01:20 PM
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Right side/ Passenger. It gets louder if I take the air filter cover off too. Wish I could bring it to you. I've always had someone who could tell me what is what and what to do on gas engines but for some reason I can't find anyone for the diesel.
 
  #15  
Old 04-10-2014, 01:54 PM
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Louder with air cover off? See that tells me that it has to be a cylinder compression noise. That's why I was thinking a valve, and the cylinder cut out would have shown you that. Maybe EGR stuck open? But I see a lot of blowby. Compression test bud. Gotta see what's going on with the cylinders. The only way to get a test is from the glow plug holes. Maybe you can rent a tester but it has to be for a diesel cuz your compression is up near 400PSI or at least you should hope it is. You could take off valve covers to see if anything looks wrong but doing so requires removal of intake to get fuel lines off. Gets in depth without knowing what your really going after. I'm suspecting a bad intake valve on one cylinder. And after thinking about that cutting fuel to that cylinder wouldn't stop the compression noise coming out the intake like that. Everything points to doing a compression test.


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  #16  
Old 04-10-2014, 03:32 PM
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Yay fun. Something I've never done before. So do you go with all the GPs at once or one at a time. Where is the missing GP?
 
  #17  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:18 PM
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It's less draw on your starter and batteries if you remove all GP then test. Or you can do one at a time so you don't have to go around more than once. But either do one or the other. It has to stay constant. For example: if you pulled number one GP and did your test you would come up with number X. Then if you not put that GP in and pulled number 2, do your test, not put number 2 in and went to 3, your test is now inconclusive because with every GP removed its less compression on the engine and it would turn faster. Hope you can understand what I'm saying.

As far as the missing GP, they are evenly spaced so if they are lets say 4" apart, then missing one is 4" away from the last or the first one. Going thru the wheel wells are the best way to get to them. Your gonna need the correct adapter to thread into the GP hole and then connect your compression gauge to that. Also crank engine the same amount for every hole to keep variables at a constant. It's best to disconnect the fuel shut off solenoid so the engine doesn't start while cranking.


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  #18  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:29 PM
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Under stand completely. I did go through the wheel well but could only find 3 starting at the front going back. I noticed that they are lined up with the injectors so that last one must be straight under the last injector I just can't find it for all the shielding. Thanks for the input. I'll see what I can do about the compression test.
 
  #19  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:39 PM
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I would check with local parts stores and see if they can rent you a compression tester. If not go to a local shop and ask them if they would be willing to rent one to you if you leave them some kind of collateral. Or maybe see what they would charge just to do the test. Either way, its gonna tell you a lot about the engine and what kinda shape it's in. Good luck. Please let me know what you find. Couple cans of engine degreaser and a water hose goes a long ways to be sure no dirt and grime gets pushed into the GP hole upon reinstalling GP. Be patient, stay safe. Hope we can get thru this even without me being there to help. Lol


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  #20  
Old 04-10-2014, 08:18 PM
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LOL
Thanks, I'll let you know...
 
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