Tywraps around the FICM will help hold them in there, if you are getting codes for chassis parts then I would be looking at the main harness where it comes out of the fire wall, might be a looses connector on the drivers side fenderwell area, I would unplug each one then plug it back in and make sure you hear it click in.

 

I did not use a gauge as I have about 15 fittings rigged together to get shop air to the oil rail. I'm trying to get the FICM connectors in right now with some dielectric grease. Man them suckers fit tight! If I can get a better fitting to get shop air to the rail in town tomorrow I will try again with a gauge.

I assume that you want to close the IPR, Pressurize the rail, then close the shop air valve and observe the gauge for pressure drop, correct?

Ill post a photo of my air pressure fittings... It's sure to make a few people laugh!

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one problem with going through the oil rail is that the early log style rails have check valves in them so you are only testing the one oil rail and not the whole system unless the check valve isn't working.
On the back of the cast iron housing that covers the High pressure oil pump there is a 6mm allen screw that you can remove to put air into the system, it is the same thread as the ICP sensor. think it is 12mmX1.5 thread. I took that same plug out of a spare motor and drilled a 1/4"hole through it and then welded a 1/4 pipe thread short nipple on to it then added a 90deg fitting to it and screwed a quick connect adaptor to it so I could hook the air hose up easy.

 

That's correct, pressurize system, with ipr closed and shut off incoming air and watch for pressure to drop on the gauge.

 

Good news, bad news...

Good First...
I believe I have found the root cause of my issues.

Bad news...
All 3 FICM connectors on the wiring harnesses are destroyed.

I have a new (used) main harness coming, and a new (new) injector harness coming from ford. Set me back a bit but what do you do?

Since I have some down time while I'm waiting for parts, I will cobble together a new fitting to the oil rail with a gauge and test for leaks while it's there.

Does the '03 oil rail have check valves in it? The shop manager I used to work with said something about the 6.0 having check valves on the oil rail. If that's the case I should find & replace those as well because when i remove power from the IPR, an audible leak is coming from somewhere. My guess is it's escaping to the oil pan and making its way back up through the drain holes in the head.

I'll post what I find with the leak test and let you know if the problem goes away when I get the new harnesses.

Thanks for all the help so far!!

 

If you look at my previous post I mentioned the check valves, youn will hear leaking once power is taken off the IPR. Or is this after air has been turned off and IPR off

 

I totally spaced out that post... sorry!

With no power to the IPR (open), and air to the rail, air is leaking. With the IPR closed, it stops.

Where are the check valves located in/on the rail? Now is the time to change them while I have the VC's off...

 

the check valves are right where the flex line/stainless hose/ connects to the oil rail. With air still on and IPR open then it will bleed air to the crankcase, that is normal. I don't think the check valve is too critical, it is there to keep oil in the rail so it will start quicker because the oil won't "bleed" down. with the angle of the oil rail aiming down and the feed hose on the top side I don't think it is an issue. I don't evenknow if you can buy the check valvs seperately, you might be able to, I may be thinking of the individual orings on the check valves and they make you buy the whole thing including the check valve even if you just need the oring.
when you do the air test it should be dead quiet, remember you are using 120psi and this system will go as high as 4000psi, if you could test using a Co2 bottle it would be better,800psi. I am thinking of converting a paintball gun remote kit to do this, the 3' long hose in those kits are 1/8 pipe thread so it would be easy to do. I believe the dealer sells a test adaptor kit for the 6.0, it has a larger adaptor for the ICP port and the smaller one for the 03 oil rail. Ebay has them too.

 

did the leak test with my new fitting rig. Tested the fitting rig adaptor independently with no leaks @ 160psi for 5 minutes.

Put it on the truck, pressurized, closed IPR, shut off supply air gauge drops. I'm losing at least 10psi/second. Air is slowly coming back out the turbo drain port on the HPOP cover.

I had to pull the intake and turbo to get the new wiring harness connected to the IPR and ICP sensor. I tested with the turbo out. Still, losing any pressure at all is going to be an issue. Where should I start my search?

Also, I put my hand over the turbo drain port and air is also making its way to the pan. The drain port is not exclusive. If I pull the HPOP cover, how to I pressurize the system to leak-check without the IPR?

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Alright. Pulled the HPOP cover, Put shop air right to the top of the tube. Leaking right by the pump. Pulled the tube from the HPOP to the Branch tube. Put shop air to the branch tube, no leak.

Replaced the tube from the HPOP to the branch tube. The one that looks like a drunk "U".

Put shop air to the tube and it still leaks. Pulled out the HPOP, Put shop air to the top port and I have found the leak. Is there a check valve in the HPOP? If so is it replaceable? I will bet money that there is a problem there.

 

is it leaking at the pump or is it leaking at the snap to connect fitting on the crazy tube??
If the pump is leaking? is it coming out the drivers side near the bottom? if so then you might have lost the BALL that they peen in there to block off a port access for the machining of the housing, if that little ball is missing then you can repair it, guys use a 1/2x20 tap and tap it out and put a plug in it using RED locktite, make sure you get the plug first and then match the tap up to it, pretty sure it is a allen head plug they use.