Need Help Bad
#1
Need Help Bad
my trans is not cooperating,it is holding 1st and 2nd gear and wont shift unless i play with the throttle. i just changed the fluid and filter 120 miles ago and had the computer flashed for the larger tires i put on.it was doing this before the work was done just no where near as bad. also i reset my apps wich helped for about 3 days, thanks for any info you may have.
#2
/me moved here
This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.
Instructions:
Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket
With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
* You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
* You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
* Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
* At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK
Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.
Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!
You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).
On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
* After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
* The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.
Instructions:
Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket
With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
* You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
* You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
* Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
* At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK
Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.
Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!
You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).
On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
* After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
* The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.
The following 2 users liked this post by DB Admin:
Diesel Dawgs Performance (03-02-2008),
torquey (03-02-2008)
#5
If you still remember the setting number that was on the white tag, be sure you write it down someplace. This way you can check your sensor setting in about 30 seconds anytime you want without having to pull it apart just to get your magic number.
#6
do you have any codes, mine only gave me a companion code, when i did the key trick ended up being my gov press sensor and syliniod, after finding out how easy it was to do kinda got pissed for paying 450.00 to get it done have the dealer skan the truck and find out whats going wrong
#7
oh crap
local tranny shop told me my governor pressure sensor was bad, changed it w/ sylinoid no luck.i did get 2 codes thou,p1693& p1698,any ideas or am i screwed?
#8
SYMPTOM
P1698-NO BUS MESSAGES RECEIVED FROM PCM
WHEN MONITORED
Key ON or Engine running.
SET CONDITION
No communication with the JTEC.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
* No response to PCM
* Open CCD bus circuit from PCM to data link connector
* Open CCD bus (-) from PCM to data link connector
* Open ground circuit
* PCM
P1698-NO BUS MESSAGES RECEIVED FROM PCM
WHEN MONITORED
Key ON or Engine running.
SET CONDITION
No communication with the JTEC.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
* No response to PCM
* Open CCD bus circuit from PCM to data link connector
* Open CCD bus (-) from PCM to data link connector
* Open ground circuit
* PCM