hey i got a john deere 450b dozer, I need to put steering clutches in it but i found out that the final drives have to be removed to do so. i havent worked on the deeres before, how do i split the tracks? do i need a press or something? can i drive the pins out? any info would be great on splitting the tracks. thanks

 

Most tracks have master links in them. Most times there is like a 5/16 piece of metal that works like a key, straiten take out and drive the pin out with a BFH. Some you have to actually cut the pin and get a new bushing. If you don't have much experiance with them and the drive clutches you may want to get a mechanic on board. Things can go bad quick with them.

 

I'm not sure about the deere's but the master link in the Cat tracks looks like a link cut on an angle, you remove the 4 bolts from the track shoe and it pops apart.

 

I don't think the 350/450 tracks have a split link like CATs. I think you have to drive/burn out a pin, if I'm not mistaken, but I could be wrong. I'm sure it's not recommended, but if you bleed the adjuster down to nothing, and if your rails are worn or stretched a little, you can walk the track right off the front idler with a prybar. That's how we did the tracks on my dads 350B loader, but it was fairly loose anyway. And doing finals on these is quite a task, so like Matt5005 said, if you aren't familiar with the beast you might be best talking to someone who is.

Also, have you adjusted the clutches? Are they worn out completely, or can you still get some adjustment out of them? Sometimes all it takes is a little tightening up and you can get some more hours out of them, considering they aren't completely shot. Just food for thought...

 

yeah i have done the CATs, and also the Kumatsu dozers, i did a kumatsu PC300 hundred and the pin bosses had to be heated then we drove the pins out. but we used the old pins and put it back together because of where the Hoe was, we needed it out before bad weather. anyways we drove the pins in, then welded them up but we did have future problems with it, but it wasnt my choice on how we did it. I talked to someone and they said to heat up around the pin, drive them out, and buy new pins to put it back together,

 

Shouldn't need to split the tracks, or pull the finals off. I have replaced the brakes/clutches in this style of crawler a few times. The fuel and hyd. tanks need to come off, and you can remove them from above. There is a cover on either side that will allow access to the g shaft/gear that goes through the steering clutch housing. A slide hammer can be used to remove the shaft. After that, you can pluck the housing out. I know I am missing a lot of steps, but explaining it all would be one long report. I will see if I can print it off tomorrow at work and get it sent to you.

 

Yeah any info would be great! You can even email me at Kyle_truck_puller@hotmail.com thanks

 

you dont have to pull the finals on the 450b the 350 yep but not 450 pull hydraulic tank if right side ---pull battery box if left side not too bad to do

 

I know this is an old thread, but sure would like to know how to remove the clutch on a 450 w/out splitting the tracks, I have started taking one apart and found that the master pin is welded in, when I searched for the best way to remove it I found this post.
I have the brakes out nothing but the clutch and steering arm left in the hole and can not see any way of removing w/out splitting the tracks, removing the drive sprocket to get to the bearing quill, any instructions on how to do this an easier way would be awesome, thanks

 

Hey I have a jd350b loader I would be interested in this info on how to complete the clutches with out the F/D being removed. rev_sirley@hot
Mail.com thanks