LLY blown gaskets,
#1
10-07-2011, 07:19 AM
LLY blown gaskets,
Just got a nice 2005 2500hd LLY, surprise blown headgaskets.
Anyway, I pressurized number two through the glow plug and got a little air in the coolant after about 2 hours.
Did that several times to make sure, not looking forward to paying for the parts.
Got the wiring harness, egr cooler and turbo piping off and it looks more like a diesel now that I can see the fuel lines.
I realized I could see four of the lowest headbolts, confirming it does not have studs, dang.
I am leaning in favor of putting studs on it, and based on the condition of the intake, egr blocker and pvc reroute.
Also would like an afe mouthpiece or lbz intake system.
Kinda stinks because I went 1500 over budget on the truck because it was a steal and because 6.0 gas gets 12mpg with less towing capacity.
Now I am looking at 1200 in parts?
Good thing I talked that sucker down 1000
Where are the deals at?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Guess I should add, where can I get the best deal on parts and thanks for advice
Anyway, I pressurized number two through the glow plug and got a little air in the coolant after about 2 hours.
Did that several times to make sure, not looking forward to paying for the parts.
Got the wiring harness, egr cooler and turbo piping off and it looks more like a diesel now that I can see the fuel lines.
I realized I could see four of the lowest headbolts, confirming it does not have studs, dang.
I am leaning in favor of putting studs on it, and based on the condition of the intake, egr blocker and pvc reroute.
Also would like an afe mouthpiece or lbz intake system.
Kinda stinks because I went 1500 over budget on the truck because it was a steal and because 6.0 gas gets 12mpg with less towing capacity.
Now I am looking at 1200 in parts?
Good thing I talked that sucker down 1000
Where are the deals at?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Guess I should add, where can I get the best deal on parts and thanks for advice
Last edited by Prebanned; 10-07-2011 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
10-07-2011, 09:17 AM
Diesel Bomber
LLY Head Gasket Kit
this is the kit I got when my gaskets went, with the ARP's its a little under $1000
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/l...itpackage.aspx
This is an LBZ mouthpiece with S&B intake as well
this is the kit I got when my gaskets went, with the ARP's its a little under $1000
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/l...itpackage.aspx
This is an LBZ mouthpiece with S&B intake as well
#4
10-11-2011, 06:58 PM
Diesel Fan
Head bolts are a different story. Price ranges from 500 to 2000 bucks.
#5
10-23-2011, 09:25 PM
Ok, got the heads off, found a really good machine shop to surface them and check for cracks. Goop seems to dissolve the soot the best. I can say, if I ever do this again, I will spring for a full valve job just so I don't have to take every valve out to remove the stupid egr soot.
Truck had 215k miles, more soot was in the drivers side, probably because of the u turn it has to make to get in the passenger side. unbelieveable soot in the drivers side intake ports that are a straight shot from the intake bridge.
Soot was nastiest and stickiest in the intake where the egr goes in.
This week the heads go back on, somehow I lost three out of four valve cover alignment dowels, ordered them from chevy for 1.05 a piece.
Got a AFE mouthpiece, EGR delete plate and a pcv delete kit.
Soot contains sulfuric acid, the exhaust manifolds are pitted where the soot was.
Dodge takes the EGR after the DPF? sounds like the way to go.
Truck had 215k miles, more soot was in the drivers side, probably because of the u turn it has to make to get in the passenger side. unbelieveable soot in the drivers side intake ports that are a straight shot from the intake bridge.
Soot was nastiest and stickiest in the intake where the egr goes in.
This week the heads go back on, somehow I lost three out of four valve cover alignment dowels, ordered them from chevy for 1.05 a piece.
Got a AFE mouthpiece, EGR delete plate and a pcv delete kit.
Soot contains sulfuric acid, the exhaust manifolds are pitted where the soot was.
Dodge takes the EGR after the DPF? sounds like the way to go.
#7
11-01-2011, 09:53 PM
Diesel Fan
#8
11-02-2011, 10:55 PM
Diesel Bomber
#9
11-04-2011, 10:52 AM
Confirmation
If the upper radiator hose is hard that is a symptom.
I confirmed it by using a diesel compression checker kit that I modified to connect to an air hose and put about 40 # of air in the cylinder after turning it to tdc.
Air showed up in the coolant.
Cylinder number 2 and 7 are the ones that were blown on mine and they are reported to be the most common ones, number two is the front drivers and number seven is the rear passenger.
I connected the air line to the pressure checker with the compressor dialed down to 20# and could hear air coming out of the exhaust, I disconnnected the air line and rotated it counter clockwise and reconnected it (after taking the breaker bar off the motor).
Eventually I got it on the power stroke and the motor rotated clockwise after I hooked the air back up, I was able to get about 40# going on it and rotated the motor back to the point where I could not hear the air flowing out the exhaust.
It would just barely stay there, I let it sit for about an hour and got a little air in the coolant.
Now my truck wont go over 185 unless it is warming up right when the thermostats open up for the first time.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Upper radiator hose is hard in the morning with the truck cool, that is.
Mine would hold pressure for days, bleed it off and it would pressurize after idling for 30 seconds, while still cold.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Truck idles so quiet now and the power does not come on jumpy off idle it is real smooth.
I am afraid to get on the throttle, that was a lot of work.
Exhaust smells like a propane powered forklift, no diesel smell at all.
I torqued all the high pressure lines to 30 ftlbs with a 17mm crowsfoot after getting them all snugged down with a stubby wrench, no leaks.
I confirmed it by using a diesel compression checker kit that I modified to connect to an air hose and put about 40 # of air in the cylinder after turning it to tdc.
Air showed up in the coolant.
Cylinder number 2 and 7 are the ones that were blown on mine and they are reported to be the most common ones, number two is the front drivers and number seven is the rear passenger.
I connected the air line to the pressure checker with the compressor dialed down to 20# and could hear air coming out of the exhaust, I disconnnected the air line and rotated it counter clockwise and reconnected it (after taking the breaker bar off the motor).
Eventually I got it on the power stroke and the motor rotated clockwise after I hooked the air back up, I was able to get about 40# going on it and rotated the motor back to the point where I could not hear the air flowing out the exhaust.
It would just barely stay there, I let it sit for about an hour and got a little air in the coolant.
Now my truck wont go over 185 unless it is warming up right when the thermostats open up for the first time.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Upper radiator hose is hard in the morning with the truck cool, that is.
Mine would hold pressure for days, bleed it off and it would pressurize after idling for 30 seconds, while still cold.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Truck idles so quiet now and the power does not come on jumpy off idle it is real smooth.
I am afraid to get on the throttle, that was a lot of work.
Exhaust smells like a propane powered forklift, no diesel smell at all.
I torqued all the high pressure lines to 30 ftlbs with a 17mm crowsfoot after getting them all snugged down with a stubby wrench, no leaks.
Last edited by Prebanned; 11-04-2011 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
11-08-2011, 01:36 AM
