Need help, I have tried everything.
#1
08-13-2016, 07:15 PM
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Need help, I have tried everything.
OK boys i have tryed everything in the book, i have a 2003 cclb lb7 duramax.
i am having a fuel issue. the truck will get to 20mph shift to 2nd gear stay at 2200 rpm
but when i get to wot it surges real bad lose power and dies, when it dies i strugle to start,
my injector balance is inj 1 -0-0 ,2 0.4 ,3 -0.5 ,4 -0.4 ,5 0.2 ,6 0.9 ,7 0.5 , 8 -0.8 this is at idle fuel rail psi was 4943.0 airflow rate 8.1 (g/s) cylinder compression was all betwine 672 and 674, i have put in a new cp3 and a new fuel filter housing. and fuel filter. i have looked for pinched lines fuel leaks everything please help.
i am having a fuel issue. the truck will get to 20mph shift to 2nd gear stay at 2200 rpm
but when i get to wot it surges real bad lose power and dies, when it dies i strugle to start,
my injector balance is inj 1 -0-0 ,2 0.4 ,3 -0.5 ,4 -0.4 ,5 0.2 ,6 0.9 ,7 0.5 , 8 -0.8 this is at idle fuel rail psi was 4943.0 airflow rate 8.1 (g/s) cylinder compression was all betwine 672 and 674, i have put in a new cp3 and a new fuel filter housing. and fuel filter. i have looked for pinched lines fuel leaks everything please help.
#2
09-05-2016, 10:14 AM
These goofy Duramaxes don't have a transfer pump! The only thing that draws fuel from the tank in the CP3 injector pump.
Is it possible that that section of the pump is bad? I really don't know but I'd have to say it's possible.
Your problem can't be related to a leaky filter housing becasue that's evident when it won't start up, so it hAS to be a fuel starvation problem.
I just bought a 2004 dually to resell and mine is losing prime. Here's what I was going to do if I decide to keep the truck:
Buy a lift (transfer) pump for a 2000 Dodge Cummins, from Autozone. $85. (I have a Dodge so i know what I'm working with here.)
Buy a oil filter adapter/mount for a farm store. They cost about $14. It will have a couple holes in it to mount it.
Get a piece of aluminum plate long enough to hold the filter and ump, and tall enough to cover the inside of your truck's frame, on the left side.
Mount the pump and filter to the plate.
Get a couple pieces of 1/4x 1 inch strap steel. Make a couple bars to go across the top and bottom of the plate, so the bars will capture that little lip on the top an dbottom of the truck's frame and old the plate in pace.
Cut the BIG (1/2") fuel line and rout it to the pump, then the filter and back to the OEM hard line in front of your mounting plate.
Wire up the pump to a keyed ignition source and use headlight relay to power the pump. I THINK you can get constant power from the old fuel heater circuit like I did on my Dodge, but not sure about that. Turn your key on an doff and check the heater wires where the old filter is.
OH - and take that old filter housing off and connect the 2 rubber fuel lines together with a short piece of tubing.....or do as I'm going to do. I used a propane torch and heated up my old filter housing and removed that U-shaped tube from it, to by-bass the old filter setup!!!
Now you have a REAL transfer pump and screw-on filter on your truck that will give the engine plenty of fuel, without screwing with that useless GM primer setup!!
It works great on my Dodge!
Is it possible that that section of the pump is bad? I really don't know but I'd have to say it's possible.
Your problem can't be related to a leaky filter housing becasue that's evident when it won't start up, so it hAS to be a fuel starvation problem.
I just bought a 2004 dually to resell and mine is losing prime. Here's what I was going to do if I decide to keep the truck:
Buy a lift (transfer) pump for a 2000 Dodge Cummins, from Autozone. $85. (I have a Dodge so i know what I'm working with here.)
Buy a oil filter adapter/mount for a farm store. They cost about $14. It will have a couple holes in it to mount it.
Get a piece of aluminum plate long enough to hold the filter and ump, and tall enough to cover the inside of your truck's frame, on the left side.
Mount the pump and filter to the plate.
Get a couple pieces of 1/4x 1 inch strap steel. Make a couple bars to go across the top and bottom of the plate, so the bars will capture that little lip on the top an dbottom of the truck's frame and old the plate in pace.
Cut the BIG (1/2") fuel line and rout it to the pump, then the filter and back to the OEM hard line in front of your mounting plate.
Wire up the pump to a keyed ignition source and use headlight relay to power the pump. I THINK you can get constant power from the old fuel heater circuit like I did on my Dodge, but not sure about that. Turn your key on an doff and check the heater wires where the old filter is.
OH - and take that old filter housing off and connect the 2 rubber fuel lines together with a short piece of tubing.....or do as I'm going to do. I used a propane torch and heated up my old filter housing and removed that U-shaped tube from it, to by-bass the old filter setup!!!
Now you have a REAL transfer pump and screw-on filter on your truck that will give the engine plenty of fuel, without screwing with that useless GM primer setup!!
It works great on my Dodge!
