yeah it feels like it has great compression it's pretty hard to turn with a 4 foot pull bar with no belt on it it takes almost all mr effort just like before I done the valves . I followed the book to the T then triple checked it to be sure I'm wondering if it's the FICM or ECM cause my dad just told me when it first broke down he only had one battiery and hooked the battiery charger straight to the leads on one side and he can't remember if he had it on 12V 40amp or 12V 400amp jumper setting. I'm trying to get a scan tool so I can watch fuel pressure and electrical response the check engine lights on even when the DTCs are cleared it's throwing a glow plug code every now and then but even when the tool says no codes the lights on I'm using a superchip cortex just to read/clear codes

 

does anyone know how I can test the ECM and FICM?

 

the only way i know of testing them if you dont have any codes that indicate that one is bad is to swap one of them out and run the VATs relearn procedure to get her to start.

i think what you need is a tool to show you the fuel PSI while chanking. something that shows the desired PSI and the actual PSI is quite helpful in determining what is going on. if you are getting 10 mpa (1450 PSI) or greater and the injectors are still not opening and the engine starting then you can suspect a bad electrical connection or possibly the ECM or FCIM.

double check the harness and all of the connectors. make sure none of the pins are bent or pushed back and that the connectors are seated properly. make sure you check the ECM and FCIF connectors too. also dont forget to check all of the fuses, including the large 175 amp "mega" fuse. normally it would throw codes with major electrical issues but if it is a simple small one it may not.

 

yeah ive checked it all everything looks good i agree with you that i need to check the fuel pressure but i cant find anyone with a scan tool to do so thats closer then 200 miles away any ideas on a way to test it? i"ll be leaving for a trip monday should i try to find an LB7 in a junkyard and pull the ECM and FICM?

 

take a look but i highly doubt that there are going to be any usable parts left. if there is it will likely cost you. and i would hate to see you just throw parts at it.

lets start over with its history. when was the last time it was running? how was it running? was there anything done to it before you tore it down to replace the injectors? just trying to find out if there is anything that may explain why it wont run now with new injectors.

 

well about 2 years ago we parked it cause of fuel prices if was running good it had a hard start like 10-15 sec when below 30 degrees outside and hazed like a fog machine after 3-5 mins idling and was making oil real slow so it sat 4-6 months and we went to crank it and it just spins and spins it ain't tried to fire since we first parked it we knew the injectors were going out when we parked it so we figured they just quit that's why I replaced them it's had a glow plug code since we bought it back in. 06 but we never had a problem it ran great when we got it. we started having the hard starts and haze after long idle times in late 07-08 we took it to the dealer they refused to scan it and said "there's no bulitens on that truck" which was a lie and we tried to fight gm to replace the injectors and glow plugs and they won't. in 09 dad had a buddy from outta town scan it and #1 injector was +5.7 and #8 was -2.7 the rest was all +/- 0.2 I'm really not sure where to go now it also had 35 psi (oil) when cranking before the injector replacement now it shows 0 so I'm kinda worried about that to. trucks history that I know. 4 owner truck first owner was in Cali 2ed was in Texas the 3rd is my dad I'm the 4th owner truck has 175xxx miles was well maintained aswell

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we did install kicker front door speakers 4 days before we parked it

 

hows the batteries? getting old?

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opps, looks like you replaced one back at post #52

how is the other one? how does it spin over now?

 

they are both new and it spins crazy fast faster then my buddy's lly with two optima battiers in his

 

I was talking to a guy here in Florida and he was saying that it's possibility that when dad hooked up the charger to the cables it could have locked the computer up with the readings of the old injectors and it's still reading false return rates from the old injectors he said I might have to the flash the computer. I'm not sure if this is possible what do you think?

 

not posible

the ECM has no way of knowing what the return rates are. there is no sensor or otherwise that can detect the flow of the returned fuel.

many folks confuse balance rates with return flow rates, this is a common mistake and even some dealers have said they can check return rates by plugging into the OBD port.

the only way to check return flow on a duramax is via the bottle test

now if he actually meant to say balance rates; that reading is not stored i the ECM but is a constantly adjusted number for which the ECM adjusts the fuel amount by a small amount (balance rate number) to try and keep the idle smooth

there is though a number that is stored in the ECM. the injector injection flow rate or quantity out of the jets and is not to be confused with returned flow. this is programmed into the ECM at the factory with the injector flow test data and also supposed to be done when new injectors are installed (with the info engraved on the side of the injectors) by using the tech 2 (i dont believe there is any other programmer capable of this). many many people have replaced injectors, myself included, that have never updated that info in the ECM and have not had any issues. this information stored in the ECM is never updated buy ECM or any sensor during the life of the engine. it is just a number plugged into the ECM and used buy the ECM to adjust or tweak the fuel quantity if each injector so that each cylinder gets an equal amount. this of course can be overrode or superseded buy the ECM (read out as balance rates) in order to keep the engine running smoothly (may only apply during idle). this number stored into the ECM also has no way of preventing the engine from starting with new injectors. the injection flow rate between new injectors to new injectors is so small that the worse that could happen is a slightly rough idle or lope in the idle.

now if anybody else has any other ideas on what could be preventing his engine from starting after replacing injectors before suggesting the CP3 or fuel pressure regulator, please throw it out there as i am running out of ideas

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have you tried jumping out the oil pressure sensor?

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just did some reading,

as i thought, oil pressure will not prevent the engine from starting or running.

you can check if you are getting oil pressure by loosening the turbo oil feed and seeing if oil comes out.

if you get oil at the turbo and jumping the pressure sensor (sending unit) does nothing then i would check the bale connectors again. open them up and pull on each pin with a pair of needle nose pliers to make sure they are seated properly. you should probably do this anyways if you haven't already.