its been a long time since I posted on here but my projects have worked back around to the motorhome. I need to get this thing running or push it off a cliff or something because I am tired of seeing it sit in my drive way. I tried advancing the timing and it helped quite a bit with power and smoke but it's still hard to start. so I bit the bullet and pulled the injection pump yesterday. tore it apart today and put a new governor weight drive ring in and looked it all over. it looked great inside compared to my old tractor DB pumps I have put seals into in the past. the outside of the cam ring was a little scored and the metering valve was shiny on one side but nothing like I saw on my other DB pumps in my equiptment and they ran way better than this thing does. the advance piston looked great and was not seized. hopefully this afternoon I will be putting it back together. this thing is a real PITA
http://s1211.photobucket.com/user/gusbratz/media/Toys/Motorhome/2dbpump009_zps026eb88f.jpg.htmlhttp://s1211.photobucket.com/user/gusbratz/media/Toys/Motorhome/2dbpump006_zps113386ad.jpg.htmlhttp://s1211.photobucket.com/user/gusbratz/media/Toys/Motorhome/2dbpump003_zps113303a2.jpg.html

 

Needing the glow plugs in warm weather is normal-these engines need the glows at every start even with a warm engine.

Sounds like you are on the right track with repairing the IP and might still want to consider checking the injectors.

I would put the electric fuel pump back in the fuel circuit as long as it is a flow through on fail type.

 

after a lot of distractions I just got the rest of the motor put back together, cranked the batteries dead about 4 times and it fired right up and runs great. unfortunately the pump is leaking around the big o-ring where the assembly slides into the body of the pump. sooooooo back apart again.

 

it seemed like it was running the way it should when It had housing leaks. I was excited that I was finally getting somewhere so I took it apart, put more seals into the pump and put it back together. no leaks this time but back to running like ****. so I am thinking it must have high housing pressure or blocked return line. (I can't see how since it is a new 25' long piece of copper tubeing going to the freshly cleaned and painted fuel tank) so I pulled the vent/return line off the pump and put the line in a bucket and it still won't run in high rpms. just breaks up and misses and smokes. so I took the check valve apart and smashed the little glass ball out of it and put the return line into the bucket. same thing. so the question is why would it run good with fuel leaking around where the head goes into the body but with no leaks not run right? I guess I am about done and out of ideas. also tired of throwing good money after bad and wasteing time......

 

Might be best to get a rebuilt IP.

 

Gus,

Pull the return line off the IP.
Unscrew the fitting it hooked to from the IP.
Carefully lock the fitting down in your vice.
Find a punch that will fit thru the fitting. Slide it down until it hits the glass check ball inside.
Hit that sumnabeech with a hammer until the glass breaks. Repeat until there is no more glass
Blow it out with Air and some WD40.
Reinstall and hook up.

It should run. If it does, the IP will need a full rebuild in the future. (the elasto crap inside is coming apart.)

An old GM mech told me this, my 83 GMC was doing the same thing. Worked like a champ!

Hope this helps.

Offio