Got my truck runnung.... sort of.....
#1
Got my truck runnung.... sort of.....
I went to the dealership to pick up my truck. They said it is very hard to start, smokes like a freight train, and lacks power. oh so true. it took about an hour to get it started, and it wont idle on its own. it seems to be missing...but how do i find out if i have a bad injector??
and OMG it smokes terribly... partly due to worn rings (probably not helping the starting issue) and the mechanic said its getting too much fuel.. (i kinda dont believe this, because i have to hold my pedal to the floor to get it to start)
its a grayish bluish smoke.... but darker when its accelerating.
it lacks power bad...
one more thing, it diesnt seem to be shifting correctly, it doesnt want to downshift on its own, and shift thru to third around thirty..
if anyone can help me, i would sure appreciate it. thanks
and OMG it smokes terribly... partly due to worn rings (probably not helping the starting issue) and the mechanic said its getting too much fuel.. (i kinda dont believe this, because i have to hold my pedal to the floor to get it to start)
its a grayish bluish smoke.... but darker when its accelerating.
it lacks power bad...
one more thing, it diesnt seem to be shifting correctly, it doesnt want to downshift on its own, and shift thru to third around thirty..
if anyone can help me, i would sure appreciate it. thanks
#2
smell the oil and see if it smells like diesel, thats one way to tell if they are bad, could be the sock in the tank being clogged,. blueish gray smoke means oil, but you can drain the oil too and see if there is diesel in it.
lacking power is a common injector problem.
see any fuel leaks from any where? any DTC?
lacking power is a common injector problem.
see any fuel leaks from any where? any DTC?
#3
im going out there in a few minutes, ill check. ive thought about the tank sock, but if i open the t-valve and run the LP, it runs good and strong for a while.
is there any easy way to find if i have a bad injector?
i did notice a fuel leak on the pass. rear injector (#8), which looked like the return line. i will fix that in a minute.
i have not checked the dtc's but i will also check these in a minute. ill repost with updates
thanks
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update----- fixed the leaking fuel return hose.
checked the codes got a code 22, but i dont know how to erase the codes.
had to take the starter off, im taking it to the parts store.
is there any easy way to find if i have a bad injector?
i did notice a fuel leak on the pass. rear injector (#8), which looked like the return line. i will fix that in a minute.
i have not checked the dtc's but i will also check these in a minute. ill repost with updates
thanks
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update----- fixed the leaking fuel return hose.
checked the codes got a code 22, but i dont know how to erase the codes.
had to take the starter off, im taking it to the parts store.
Last edited by cviola2005; 05-24-2012 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#5
#7
got the starter rebuilt; armature, brushes, and field magnets were toast. but now when it turns over, the tach goes up to 2000 rpm, twice as fast as before!! it starts after a few seconds.
i found the ground strap from the body (below the a/c evaporator) not attached to the engine. does it really matter where it attaches, or can i attach it to the rear pass. blockoff plate?
it runs rough, smoothes out a little after a minute or so, but acts like its missing, slow to accelerate under load. could it be possible for an injector (or two) to remain airlocked even after it runs for thirty minutes or so? i have an extra set of injectors to replace bad ones, but how do i check them?? do i just change one for another (for all the injectors) and see if it runs better?
i'm pretty sure my IP timing is off a little. i don't have a diesel timing light nor do i have access to one, so i'm gonna have to play with it by ear. can anyone post a picture of their IP's timing marks?
also, i unplugged the glowplug controller and installed an override switch in the cab, b/c it will not start warm without the glowplugs cycling.
i found the ground strap from the body (below the a/c evaporator) not attached to the engine. does it really matter where it attaches, or can i attach it to the rear pass. blockoff plate?
it runs rough, smoothes out a little after a minute or so, but acts like its missing, slow to accelerate under load. could it be possible for an injector (or two) to remain airlocked even after it runs for thirty minutes or so? i have an extra set of injectors to replace bad ones, but how do i check them?? do i just change one for another (for all the injectors) and see if it runs better?
i'm pretty sure my IP timing is off a little. i don't have a diesel timing light nor do i have access to one, so i'm gonna have to play with it by ear. can anyone post a picture of their IP's timing marks?
also, i unplugged the glowplug controller and installed an override switch in the cab, b/c it will not start warm without the glowplugs cycling.
#8
If you can find a skilled, trustworthy diesel shop in your area, that would be a great asset. The dealership techs generally aren't well versed in diesels, especially those pushing twenty years old. Where are you located? Maybe someone can recommend a good shop near you.
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Adapters to run a standard timing light on a diesel are available, as are simple injector test stands, but neither would be cost effective unless you plan on doing a lot of this sort of thing. Working on several diesels or relentlessly searching or maximum horsepower and/or fuel economy. Finding a good shop will be you best bet to get it right, at this point anyway. Good luck.
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Adapters to run a standard timing light on a diesel are available, as are simple injector test stands, but neither would be cost effective unless you plan on doing a lot of this sort of thing. Working on several diesels or relentlessly searching or maximum horsepower and/or fuel economy. Finding a good shop will be you best bet to get it right, at this point anyway. Good luck.
Last edited by Eddiebuntain; 05-26-2012 at 01:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#9
I am located in Livingston, TN. The only diesel mechanics around here that I've heard of are slower than Christmas, and I mean that literally.
I know that my engine really needs a bottom end rebuild, but I believe that my IP timing is off to some degree. I have a very nice adjustable inductive timing light, but I have never heard of adapters. Or is that what a "luminosity probe" is??
Thanks
I know that my engine really needs a bottom end rebuild, but I believe that my IP timing is off to some degree. I have a very nice adjustable inductive timing light, but I have never heard of adapters. Or is that what a "luminosity probe" is??
Thanks
#10
I believe Snap-on makes an adapter, or at least used to, it's been a while since I've looked for one.
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MT257B diesel pulse adaptor (Blue-Point)
Enables use with inductive pick up timing light on diesel engines equipped with 1/4" or 6mm external fuel lines.
Page 446 in Snap-on catalog 1200, see dealer or website for price
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MT257B diesel pulse adaptor (Blue-Point)
Enables use with inductive pick up timing light on diesel engines equipped with 1/4" or 6mm external fuel lines.
Page 446 in Snap-on catalog 1200, see dealer or website for price
Last edited by Eddiebuntain; 05-27-2012 at 01:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost