Lift pump test and now it won't start.
#1
05-03-2012, 09:42 PM
Lift pump test and now it won't start.
I have been searching for the "lift pump test" for 15 minutes now and I am done. I worked 12 hours today and am done searching. I read it yesterday and then I attempted it today. PLEASE TELL ME IF I DID IT RIGHT. I am a tired diesel newbie.
So I turned the key to the "on" position and then went up the the T-valve and opened it up. I got NO fuel. I did not hear the lift pump either. I know where it is and stuck my head up in the frame and heard nothing. I then closed the valve, started the engine and opened the t-valve while running. No fuel came out and the engine died. I closed the valve and tried to start it up again and it wouldn't start. It would crank plenty but no start.
I am definitely getting a new lift pump. I am looking at the lubrication specialist or the Heath. What do you guys run?
So I turned the key to the "on" position and then went up the the T-valve and opened it up. I got NO fuel. I did not hear the lift pump either. I know where it is and stuck my head up in the frame and heard nothing. I then closed the valve, started the engine and opened the t-valve while running. No fuel came out and the engine died. I closed the valve and tried to start it up again and it wouldn't start. It would crank plenty but no start.
I am definitely getting a new lift pump. I am looking at the lubrication specialist or the Heath. What do you guys run?
#3
05-04-2012, 06:52 AM
No. You mean: check the fuse or relay that runs the lift pump, correct?
Would a fuse or a relay blow because of the test performed? It has never had a problem starting until now.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Lift pump test:
"This pump is located underneath the driver's seat area inside of the frame rail and should produce around 4 PSI of pressure to the injection pump. You should be able to hear and feel this pump running. Another method to verify the pump's operation is to open the fuel filter water drain in the engine compartment (brass "T" handle) with the engine running. If fuel sprays from the end of the hose and the truck continues to run, the pump is still working. If the truck dies, you may need a new pump"
Would a fuse or a relay blow because of the test performed? It has never had a problem starting until now.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Lift pump test:
"This pump is located underneath the driver's seat area inside of the frame rail and should produce around 4 PSI of pressure to the injection pump. You should be able to hear and feel this pump running. Another method to verify the pump's operation is to open the fuel filter water drain in the engine compartment (brass "T" handle) with the engine running. If fuel sprays from the end of the hose and the truck continues to run, the pump is still working. If the truck dies, you may need a new pump"
Last edited by r2d; 05-04-2012 at 07:28 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#4
05-04-2012, 10:36 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
correct. Anything could happen or could have happened when you performed the test. I have another method for testing the lift pump.unhook the ops connector. looking at the end of it, with the connector clip up, connect a wire lead to the far left terminal. connect the other end of that wire lead to positive lead on battery. LP should come on immediately. also check the connections at the lift pump and at the fuel pump relay
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r2d (05-04-2012)
#5
05-04-2012, 04:09 PM
Yup, check fuses first.
Then hot wire lift pump as mentioned above.
If no fuel comes out of the water drain (T valve), then the lift pump is toast. If fuel comes out with the LP hotwired, you've probably got a wiring problem.
The OPS isn't as critical on OBDII trucks (1996+) as OBDI trucks (94-95) as the PCM can run the LP even with failed OPS contacts in an OBDII truck.
Your truck stalled when you opened the Tvalve because the IP has enough "suction" when running to pull fuel from the tank and when you opened the valve, the IP will suck air into the lines and stall.
Your truck won't start now because you have "broken prime" by allowing air into the system with the open T valve. Without prime, the IP can't suck fuel from the tank.
Unfortunately, you need a functioning lift pump to prime the system back up to the IP, so you're stuck until you figure out the lift pump problem.
Don't be surprised if it takes a while to get the truck restarted even with a new lift pump because of this introduction of air. If bad enough, you may have to bleed the IP and lines.
Again, don't be surprised; it's natural to have to do this if enough air entered the IP and your "no start condition" is just air in the IP/lines.
I run a custom setup; Raptor 100 lift pump with a 14" 30 micron prefilter and 1/2 inch Eaton pushlok hose from the tank to the Factory filter manager. Then I have a custom Stainless braided fuel line from the FM running up the lifter valley to the IP.
Heatn PMDcable or lubrication specialists are fine. If you walk into the parts store and ask for a lp from a 98+ truck I do belive you get the same thing. PMD cable dot com offers a bolt in walbro kit which is also a good replacement option for the stock lift pump. If you need your lift pump right away, I do believe pmdcable will expedite shipping (or overnight) if you pay the extra shipping...
Then hot wire lift pump as mentioned above.
If no fuel comes out of the water drain (T valve), then the lift pump is toast. If fuel comes out with the LP hotwired, you've probably got a wiring problem.
The OPS isn't as critical on OBDII trucks (1996+) as OBDI trucks (94-95) as the PCM can run the LP even with failed OPS contacts in an OBDII truck.
Your truck stalled when you opened the Tvalve because the IP has enough "suction" when running to pull fuel from the tank and when you opened the valve, the IP will suck air into the lines and stall.
Your truck won't start now because you have "broken prime" by allowing air into the system with the open T valve. Without prime, the IP can't suck fuel from the tank.
Unfortunately, you need a functioning lift pump to prime the system back up to the IP, so you're stuck until you figure out the lift pump problem.
Don't be surprised if it takes a while to get the truck restarted even with a new lift pump because of this introduction of air. If bad enough, you may have to bleed the IP and lines.
Again, don't be surprised; it's natural to have to do this if enough air entered the IP and your "no start condition" is just air in the IP/lines.
I run a custom setup; Raptor 100 lift pump with a 14" 30 micron prefilter and 1/2 inch Eaton pushlok hose from the tank to the Factory filter manager. Then I have a custom Stainless braided fuel line from the FM running up the lifter valley to the IP.
Heatn PMDcable or lubrication specialists are fine. If you walk into the parts store and ask for a lp from a 98+ truck I do belive you get the same thing. PMD cable dot com offers a bolt in walbro kit which is also a good replacement option for the stock lift pump. If you need your lift pump right away, I do believe pmdcable will expedite shipping (or overnight) if you pay the extra shipping...
Last edited by great white; 05-04-2012 at 04:20 PM.
The following users liked this post:
r2d (05-04-2012)
#6
05-04-2012, 09:42 PM
correct. Anything could happen or could have happened when you performed the test. I have another method for testing the lift pump.unhook the ops connector. looking at the end of it, with the connector clip up, connect a wire lead to the far left terminal. connect the other end of that wire lead to positive lead on battery. LP should come on immediately. also check the connections at the lift pump and at the fuel pump relay
Yup, check fuses first.
Then hot wire lift pump as mentioned above.
If no fuel comes out of the water drain (T valve), then the lift pump is toast. If fuel comes out with the LP hotwired, you've probably got a wiring problem.
The OPS isn't as critical on OBDII trucks (1996+) as OBDI trucks (94-95) as the PCM can run the LP even with failed OPS contacts in an OBDII truck.
Your truck stalled when you opened the Tvalve because the IP has enough "suction" when running to pull fuel from the tank and when you opened the valve, the IP will suck air into the lines and stall.
Your truck won't start now because you have "broken prime" by allowing air into the system with the open T valve. Without prime, the IP can't suck fuel from the tank.
Unfortunately, you need a functioning lift pump to prime the system back up to the IP, so you're stuck until you figure out the lift pump problem.
Don't be surprised if it takes a while to get the truck restarted even with a new lift pump because of this introduction of air. If bad enough, you may have to bleed the IP and lines.
Again, don't be surprised; it's natural to have to do this if enough air entered the IP and your "no start condition" is just air in the IP/lines.
I run a custom setup; Raptor 100 lift pump with a 14" 30 micron prefilter and 1/2 inch Eaton pushlok hose from the tank to the Factory filter manager. Then I have a custom Stainless braided fuel line from the FM running up the lifter valley to the IP.
Heatn PMDcable or lubrication specialists are fine. If you walk into the parts store and ask for a lp from a 98+ truck I do belive you get the same thing. PMD cable dot com offers a bolt in walbro kit which is also a good replacement option for the stock lift pump. If you need your lift pump right away, I do believe pmdcable will expedite shipping (or overnight) if you pay the extra shipping...
Then hot wire lift pump as mentioned above.
If no fuel comes out of the water drain (T valve), then the lift pump is toast. If fuel comes out with the LP hotwired, you've probably got a wiring problem.
The OPS isn't as critical on OBDII trucks (1996+) as OBDI trucks (94-95) as the PCM can run the LP even with failed OPS contacts in an OBDII truck.
Your truck stalled when you opened the Tvalve because the IP has enough "suction" when running to pull fuel from the tank and when you opened the valve, the IP will suck air into the lines and stall.
Your truck won't start now because you have "broken prime" by allowing air into the system with the open T valve. Without prime, the IP can't suck fuel from the tank.
Unfortunately, you need a functioning lift pump to prime the system back up to the IP, so you're stuck until you figure out the lift pump problem.
Don't be surprised if it takes a while to get the truck restarted even with a new lift pump because of this introduction of air. If bad enough, you may have to bleed the IP and lines.
Again, don't be surprised; it's natural to have to do this if enough air entered the IP and your "no start condition" is just air in the IP/lines.
I run a custom setup; Raptor 100 lift pump with a 14" 30 micron prefilter and 1/2 inch Eaton pushlok hose from the tank to the Factory filter manager. Then I have a custom Stainless braided fuel line from the FM running up the lifter valley to the IP.
Heatn PMDcable or lubrication specialists are fine. If you walk into the parts store and ask for a lp from a 98+ truck I do belive you get the same thing. PMD cable dot com offers a bolt in walbro kit which is also a good replacement option for the stock lift pump. If you need your lift pump right away, I do believe pmdcable will expedite shipping (or overnight) if you pay the extra shipping...
Great White: I have seen your Raptor setup
I really like the "Pushlok" hose conversion. I will eventually replace the stock lines with this hose. Unfortunately I can't throw that kind of money into it. I would have been able to if I didn't have so many things to fix! I have a radiator leak to fix too. End tank is cracked and leaks only when engine is running. So I have to buy an oil cooler/lines, a lift pump and a radiator now. My budget is controlling the quality of parts. I found an AC delco lift pump for $60 and a spectra radiator for $222 shipped and am debating on buying a never used, stacked 19 row, oil cooler with lines that was originally for a big block chevy for $150. Only problem is the owner has no idea what brand it is. Could be china junk. Oh and my shock absorbers are shot too
#7
05-06-2012, 08:43 AM
Diesel Enthusiast
On a 1998 there should be a spade connector near the underhood fuse box. In between the fuse box and the firewall.
If you jumper that spade connector the lift pump will run. It's my prefered location for hotwiring the lift pump on the 1998.
I always run a hot wire directly to the lift pump as a last test. To make sure that the lack of working is not do to a broken wire.
I use an AC Delco lift pump for a 1993. They have slightly higher flow.
For an engine oil cooler I stick with pmdcable.com or lubrication specialists kits.
You'll have everything you need including the O rings for your oil filter adapter if you have 4x4.
It helps to plug your block heater in for a couple of hours before taking the oil filter adapter off. I've had them not budge with a breaker bar and come right out after having the block heater plugged in for a while.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
[QUOTE=great white;891025]
If you walk into the parts store and ask for a lp from a 98+ truck I do belive you get the same thing. QUOTE]
I've always used a AC Delco lift pump for a 1993 as they have slightly higher flow.
Did I misunderstand something there?
If you jumper that spade connector the lift pump will run. It's my prefered location for hotwiring the lift pump on the 1998.
I always run a hot wire directly to the lift pump as a last test. To make sure that the lack of working is not do to a broken wire.
I use an AC Delco lift pump for a 1993. They have slightly higher flow.
For an engine oil cooler I stick with pmdcable.com or lubrication specialists kits.
You'll have everything you need including the O rings for your oil filter adapter if you have 4x4.
It helps to plug your block heater in for a couple of hours before taking the oil filter adapter off. I've had them not budge with a breaker bar and come right out after having the block heater plugged in for a while.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
[QUOTE=great white;891025]
If you walk into the parts store and ask for a lp from a 98+ truck I do belive you get the same thing. QUOTE]
I've always used a AC Delco lift pump for a 1993 as they have slightly higher flow.
Did I misunderstand something there?
Last edited by jrsavoie; 05-06-2012 at 08:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
05-06-2012, 10:17 AM
[quote=jrsavoie;891368]
Probably not, memory fails once in a while and this is probably one of them.
When I went to the raptor 100 I dumped all that oem lift pump info....
When I went to the raptor 100 I dumped all that oem lift pump info....
#9
05-07-2012, 10:31 PM
What is this fuel line?
So as I was underneath, spraying the lift pump with pb blaster, I noticed there was a line capped off. From the lift pump going towards the engine the fuel line "t's" off to another line that goes back in the direction of the fuel tank. Mine has a hose with a cap on it. What is this line? Some sort of return line? I really need to buy a manual!
#10
05-07-2012, 11:17 PM
Diesel Fan
