I have a 93 3500 6.5 TD. I bought it not running and have since replaced heads and all upper end gaskets. I did not remove the injection pump. I have bled the fuel system at the filter housing, the shutoff tee, and at each injector. All electrical plugs are connected, all fuses are good, and all glow plugs work.

It turns over great with the new batteries and new starter. The tachometer jumps between 400 and 1000 rpms as its turning. I acts like it wants to start, hits and misses, but never fires up.

The PO told me that he and his buddy put that motor in (which is from a 94 with DS4 IP, putting this trucks original DB2 back on it. I have reason to believe that it was installed wrong, or the IP gear is x number of teeth off. Is this possible??

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

could be timing, fuel leak somewhere, bad IP, bad fuel shut off solenoid, start with the easy stuff (making sure no fuel leaks, wires), then check your lift pump make sure it works, then try and put 12v constant to the FSO see if it clicks, then go from there see what you get

 

thanks. i have checked the FSO and the LP. both work. i did notice a leak at the injection pump. seems like its coming out by the throttle shaft. it that possible? is it fixable?

 

first let me ask you something your first post is a little off. what IP does it curently have on no, im assuming a DB2 via the throttle shaft.

sounds like a bad seal that has to be replaced, or even a rebuilt IP.

try this out : Injection Pump Throttle Shaft Seal Replacement - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

 

yes, the db2. anywhere to buy seals for those? i dont have the money for an IP. thanks

 

most likely dealer part

 

would a fuel leak at the throttle shaft prevent the truck from starting?

 

Did you check the glow plugs?

If you bled at each injector you should have fuel.

These often will not start with bad glow plugs. Check my posts. Somewhere there is more info on checking glow plugs.

You want to check each glow plug for continuity with the wire unhooked and each wire for continuity to the glow plug controller with the wire unhooked from the glow plug.

Then test for volts to the glow plugs.

Run about 3/4 gallon of fuel out of the T drain by the thermostat housing. Let it sit and check for crud and water bubbles on the bottom of the container.

I use a 1 gallon glass pickle jar.

You can squirt some wd40, diesel, Marvel or similar into the intake while cranking - takes 2 people - Don't get carried away because if it starts you will have a run-away on your hands

What is your location?

Do not use ether or try to start with a booster charger. Both can do damage

 

thanks!

I have checked all glow plugs. all of them work. i have checked all wired leading to the injectors, all are good. glow plug controller works and times out after about 7 seconds.

i have drained the fuel as mentioned and it looks good, no crud or water.

i ahd a can of LKS all purpose lubricant on hand and tried that, didnt work.

i didnt know what else to do, so i started disassembling the front of the engine to check cam and injection pump timing. ill repost when i get it apart

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I have disassembled the front of the engine and everything appears correct. I didnt want to try to pull the harmonic balancer so this is where I'm at....

With the harmonic balancer timing mark aligned with the 0 on the reference.....

....the cam gear and ip gear align perfectly.

 

This is an engine that was just rebuilt prior to buying it?
My brain is in a fog so bare with me if this is dumb, but Is the cam is out 180*?
I believe with the marks like the picture shows the piston is at TDC both valves closed and if the cam mark is at top then the piston is TDC and exhaust valve open.


Leroy

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Also, forgot to say the IP seal will be available at a fuel injection shop. Mine weeped from the bottom hole so I just had it rebuilt.