ive got a 1999 chevy 6.5 turbo diesel i recently put 33's on it and they rub a little in the front i want to put 2-3 inch lift on the front what would be the best and cheapest way to go?

 

Had the exact same problem. I run 33x12.5x16.5 on an offset 78' dodge mag rim. I had to get new keys. Leveling kit, gave me 3" in the front.
The only thing mine is a 93' K2500, so I am not 100% sure your 99' IFS would be exactly the same.
It was around $140, and I also needed a torsion key removal tool.
Hopefully someone here will know if our IFS is the same. A lil measure on good level ground should give you the clearance you would need to clear the bottom back edge of your fenders.
The kit also gave me front shock extender brackets, longer U bolts for the rear and blocks.

 

A 1999 6.5 truck will still be the GMT400 Chassis (1988-2001)

You're not going to like this but it doesn't make it any less true; Re-indexed "keys" on a GMT400 chassis are pointless.

People sell them, but they are not needed.

The stock adjuster bolts will preload the stocks bars (IE: stock keys) until the front upper A arms hit the droop stops, which is the limiting factor on a "torsion bar lift".

Re-indexed "keys" just means less adjuster bolt travel used since the upper droop stops bottom out before you run out of adjustment on the stockers.

Cutting the droop stops off is a whole new world of problems. "Pop" goes the CV joints......$$$$$$$$

Essentially, you paid 150 bucks for lift blocks and shock extenders.......depending on where you live, that may or may not have been a good deal.

To the OP:

If you want 1 1/2 - 2" of lift you can just "crank 'em". Jack the front end up and you don't even need to unload the bars.

Be aware, there are issues with this method.

You will need a front end alignment after lifting this way, it changes the camber...a lot! You get a positive camber, meaning your tires look like \-/. You are effectively shortening the lower control arm lever length by rotating them further down in their arc of travel. The upper doesn't go through the same amount of swing (arc) for the travel. It's kind of hard to picture, but think of it as two offset circles set above each other. It's designed this way so the camber goes negative when you enter a turn and load the tire. The body rolls and the tire stays flatter in the turn with negative camber. Unfortunately, for guys that want to do the torsion bar lift, this works in reverse when you lift the front suspension. It's all about the angles....

If you don't get a realignment you end up with problems like rapid outer tread wear, poor steering, etc.

The ride will be rougher/harsher. Some call it stiffer. I think it sucks no matter what you call it. Whatever floats your boat....

Since you'll be running really close to the droop stops, you will **** your pants first time they hit. It sounds like your front end is coming apart. "Clunk" doesn't begin to describe the noise.....

Your CV angles are going to be pretty maxed out for the design. The down rotation also pulls the CV tripos joint or splined shaft further out of the outer/inner housing. Inner tripod joints are the first to fail in mud and shock load conditions (rock or climbing).

Accelerated ball joint wear, they're at one edge of their OE spec operating arc all the time.

Bump steer can become a problem, steering geometry is out of OE spec.

Lets also not forget: hit a bump hard enough at the right steering angle and that tire will still get into the sheet metal.....


Really, 2" (or thereabouts) of lift is a problem area for the GMT400.

It's so small that no one makes a lift bracket kit, but simply cranking the torsion bar preload causes all the problems above.

Now, there are drop kits available that lift about 4" that address almost all of these issues....except that now you have all your front end components hanging off longer brackets, which creates it's own set of problems.

But that's a whole 'nother thread......

 

i bought a leveling kit and like you said waste of money it didnt do anything in the front the rear came up but nothing in the front i was even thinking airbags or something but i dont know if they would work on my truck

 

Thanx for the good info Great White:-)
And there lies my problem and hopefully will help anyone else. I now seem to think I have wasted my money also. I installed my leveling kit, during my fuel pressure issue and like U said my upper arms sit firm on my droop stops, where with my original keys I couldn't get them to adjust that far. Why, I can't explain. But now they do. And I wonder then if the geometry I created by this was far more destructive than rewarding.
Still, it gave me just enough clearance for my 33(s). I have only driven it a few miles on relativaly flat roads figuring out my fuel issues,when I notice my radiator problem. And now I am going to be very reluctant to drive it under the conditions that you described now exist.
I did consider a 3" body lift and/or a set of BushWacker Cut Away Flares which are suppose to give up to 5" of more wheel clearance. Considering I just spent over a $1000 in tires, would either of these other options be a better choice? And just returning the keys to their original position. (?)
Thanx again Great White, your help has been greatly appreciated!!!!

 

Body lift is an option.

Make sure you get a good kit that deals with issues like radiator drop, bumper brackets and such.....


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i would really like a cheap front suspension lift any suggestions? i havent had any luck finding any for diesels