6.2 Rad on a 6.5 TD
#1
6.2 Rad on a 6.5 TD
First, thanx to everyone who helped in my Fuel issue. After chasing everything down, I have (hopefully) fixed and learned invaulable info in the process.
Now my new issue is my radiator in my 93' 6.5 TD. I have known the rad was taking a dump, and had to be replaced. IDK if age, but looks maybe a previous flush has pretty much has eaten its' way through both edges of the core.
My question is, I have an radiator from my 92' 6.2 which is in excllent shape and was wondering if anyone has ever done this swap? The frame width is the same, the height is a full 1 1/4" shorter, which could be easily accomadated for. And the core on the 6.2 seems to measure 5/8" thicker. Still plenty of room for fan clearance.
The main issue is the engine cooler on the 6.2 rad is built in the rad and on my actual 93' 6.5, the engine cooler is it own actual rad located drivers side in front of the AC's condenser. Can the 6.2 be plumbed into this? Meaning run the engine's oil into the 6.2's rad out to the forward engine's cooler, then back to the motor? Or completely taking out the original engine cooler out of the system?
Just mainly worried bout proper cooling and if this is just a bad ideal. If so, I have no problem buying a new rad, but it would be nice if what I have is workable first.
Thanx for reading
Now my new issue is my radiator in my 93' 6.5 TD. I have known the rad was taking a dump, and had to be replaced. IDK if age, but looks maybe a previous flush has pretty much has eaten its' way through both edges of the core.
My question is, I have an radiator from my 92' 6.2 which is in excllent shape and was wondering if anyone has ever done this swap? The frame width is the same, the height is a full 1 1/4" shorter, which could be easily accomadated for. And the core on the 6.2 seems to measure 5/8" thicker. Still plenty of room for fan clearance.
The main issue is the engine cooler on the 6.2 rad is built in the rad and on my actual 93' 6.5, the engine cooler is it own actual rad located drivers side in front of the AC's condenser. Can the 6.2 be plumbed into this? Meaning run the engine's oil into the 6.2's rad out to the forward engine's cooler, then back to the motor? Or completely taking out the original engine cooler out of the system?
Just mainly worried bout proper cooling and if this is just a bad ideal. If so, I have no problem buying a new rad, but it would be nice if what I have is workable first.
Thanx for reading
Last edited by silversurfer0690; 04-09-2012 at 11:15 PM. Reason: spelling
#3
Your rad should be fine if you are pretty much just a daily driver.
Towing, not so much.
The stock TD rad is barely (or not) adequate for shedding the heat a 6.5 TD makes when towing.
Leave the separate transmission rad in place, screw plugs in to the ports on the rad.
Do not plumb the transmission cooler lines through the rad. Your separate rad is better than the engine rad ever will be. It's just not worth the trouble.
Towing, not so much.
The stock TD rad is barely (or not) adequate for shedding the heat a 6.5 TD makes when towing.
Leave the separate transmission rad in place, screw plugs in to the ports on the rad.
Do not plumb the transmission cooler lines through the rad. Your separate rad is better than the engine rad ever will be. It's just not worth the trouble.
#4
Thanx both Great White and bftrain
U guys are absolutely right. I was looking this morning at it and that is the same conclusion I came up with. Just brass plug of the cooler in the 6.2. Cause plumbing it through would be so not worth the trouble.
And out of curiousty Great White, when searching for a new rad, hopefully alot farther down the road. U said, the stock was not very adequate for shedding heat, even though mine is not going to be used for towing, maybe an occasional single axle utility trailor, what kind of radiator would u recommend. I have found quite a few, ranging any where from $254 to $450, 2 row, 3 row, all aluminum, none steel, and had not a clue how to base an intelligent decision on which brand or configuration to buy.
U guys are absolutely right. I was looking this morning at it and that is the same conclusion I came up with. Just brass plug of the cooler in the 6.2. Cause plumbing it through would be so not worth the trouble.
And out of curiousty Great White, when searching for a new rad, hopefully alot farther down the road. U said, the stock was not very adequate for shedding heat, even though mine is not going to be used for towing, maybe an occasional single axle utility trailor, what kind of radiator would u recommend. I have found quite a few, ranging any where from $254 to $450, 2 row, 3 row, all aluminum, none steel, and had not a clue how to base an intelligent decision on which brand or configuration to buy.
#5
Thanx both Great White and bftrain
U guys are absolutely right. I was looking this morning at it and that is the same conclusion I came up with. Just brass plug of the cooler in the 6.2. Cause plumbing it through would be so not worth the trouble.
And out of curiousty Great White, when searching for a new rad, hopefully alot farther down the road. U said, the stock was not very adequate for shedding heat, even though mine is not going to be used for towing, maybe an occasional single axle utility trailor, what kind of radiator would u recommend. I have found quite a few, ranging any where from $254 to $450, 2 row, 3 row, all aluminum, none steel, and had not a clue how to base an intelligent decision on which brand or configuration to buy.
U guys are absolutely right. I was looking this morning at it and that is the same conclusion I came up with. Just brass plug of the cooler in the 6.2. Cause plumbing it through would be so not worth the trouble.
And out of curiousty Great White, when searching for a new rad, hopefully alot farther down the road. U said, the stock was not very adequate for shedding heat, even though mine is not going to be used for towing, maybe an occasional single axle utility trailor, what kind of radiator would u recommend. I have found quite a few, ranging any where from $254 to $450, 2 row, 3 row, all aluminum, none steel, and had not a clue how to base an intelligent decision on which brand or configuration to buy.
A lot depends on trailer weight, size and terrain.
If you're out west in the mountains and towing an 8500lb travel trailer, you want...no, scratch that......you need the upgrades....
Last edited by great white; 04-10-2012 at 04:28 PM.
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