Before it was hard starts now no starts. Changed the glow plugs, hot wired 'em for maximum glow. Engines turning but no fire. Ideas??

 

fuel would be my first guess, check for leaks

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

www.AccurateDiesel.com - PMD Installation Instructions - Accurate Technical Services, LLC

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

otherwise known as the no start guide

 

Does it start good after WARMED UP?

Does this only happen after it has sat a while? How long til you have problems?

 

DTC codes please.....

 

It'll start good after warm. But Over night plugged in -10C might start. 2 Days like that and I would need cold start fluid for 1st start now even that wont work. I'll get codes soon as I can. Thanks All. btw. New starter 2 months ago and new glow plugs last week.

 

Do not use starting fluid or a booster charger on a 6.5.

Check your glow plugs again. Also check continuity on your glow plug leads. Or check for voltage to each glow plug. It doesn't do any good to have good glow pluga all around if 1 or 2 are not getting juiced up.

I like to use 2 testers. One to test the glow plug for continuity - with the wire unhooked, put one lead to the spade and the other to ground - also note the tightness of the spade connectors - I also copper coat the connectors as I go -

To test the wires for continuity hook one lead to the glow plug controller and touch the other lead to the glow plug end of the wire - while the wire is disconnected

There are only 2 brands of glow plugs to use in the 6.5 ACDelco 60G's or Dualtherm's? I use AC60G's and can never remember the other.

Starting fluid or a booster charger will both take out glow plugs. Starting fluid can do a whole bunch more damage.

Check your compression.

 

I.ve tested wires for continuity they're fine. when hooked up to the controller and i do a reading with volt meter while relay cycles I get 10.5v for 1sec 4-5 times that didn't seem right to me, should be 12v sould it not?

 

The voltage is temperature dependent IIRC.

I'll check a calibration file and see if I can get a screen shot later....

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Ah, not quite the relationship I remembered:



The time is the dependent factor....

 

I have a 1999 GMC 1 ton 6.5 lturbo diesel I have been having problems with stalling after it warms up and no starts and stalling going down the road I even bought a 72'' cable to get the pmd out to the fender well to keep it cool when I first bought the truck I had an issue with stalling when I first started it cold and would start right back up, hot would run good a new fuel shut off solenoid fixed that problem look for corrosion at the base of it I run it for about a month and then it starts stalling going down the road sometimes not starting , the plug on the pmd was the problem temperature and regular vibration will effect it I had gotten it running and literally just touched the plug and it stalled so I slightly twisted and bent the pins in the pmd plug as to improve connection and problem solved you want it so it doesn`t stall while wiggling the plug I hope this helps some one its been very frustrating and pricey figuring this out.

 

There are low quality extension harnesses out there-stick with reputable vendors and be sure that there is no corrosion on the PMD resistor.

The PMD MUST be mounted to an aluminum heatsink with heat transfer paste/pad if moved from the IP and should be moved to an area outside the engine bay-heatsok after engine shutdown is very hard on them-the max temp is not the problem-the quick spike and subesquent fall of temps does the damage.

Outside the engine bay the temps stay at or near ambient and no big swings occur giving it th best chance at long life.