so advance it a bit and redo tdco?

 

Yup, if you want a more negative TDCO.

But, your inital timing is pretty good as is.

Just give 'er a little bump.

TDCO moves a lot with pump movement. As little as 2mm of movement can throw timing right out....that's about the thickness of 2 dimes......

I made myself a tool to make precise movement of the IP easier:



I also welded up a tool to make getting the IP nuts easier:



You can buy specific tools for this job, but why buy what you can build?

 

i completely agree. i make everything i can. i made one out of a broken extension and bolts welded all together. ip nuts arent bad except the one on the pass side. just bent a cheap 15mm into a curve.

you got me all distracted with neat tools. what about the cyl balance faults? any ideas?

 

Get the timing sorted out first and see what that does...

A truck with the dual thermostats and the compressor on the drivers side is much more difficult to get to the ip nuts, hence the custom made wrench. The single stat passenger side compressors are a walk in the park by comparison...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

i moved it toward the drivers side and heres what i got
desired-7
actual- 7
tdc offset - 1.41
and it lopes like it has a cam now. still getting cylinder balance faults and it wont run over 1500rpm. it isnt throwing any other dtcs. any advice? ill try to post a video here in a few.

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video i made of how its running. i figured out after this that the optical sensor was about 8mm off but it still runs about the same and is throwin balance faults.

 

Why is your tdco value jumping around?

That's a set and store value, it shouldn't be changing....kind of makes me think you're locked in the tdco learn mode, but that would be really weird....

Are you revving the engine while it's trying to set TDCO?

Are you up to temp when attempting to set TDCO?

You're getting cylinder balance faults because of the way it's running - IE: loping.

Something odd is going on here, but I have an idea or two of the top of my head.

Unplug the optical sensor and see how it runs.

Unplug the coolant temp switch (the one to the PCM, not the gauge) and see how it runs.

Let me read a few things and get back to you.....have to read up on the timing advance stepper motor specifically.

One other thing, please stop forcing it to run with the throttle in that condition. It's not doing anything any good...

 

Why is your tdco value jumping around?

I'm not sure why it was jumping around after tdco learn had turned off. Its suppost to bring the rpm up to 1k during tdco learn procedures but it does that whole up down up down idle thing.

That's a set and store value, it shouldn't be changing....kind of makes me think you're locked in the tdco learn mode, but that would be really weird....

Are you revving the engine while it's trying to set TDCO?

No

Are you up to temp when attempting to set TDCO?

coolant temp was 190* when i took the video.

You're getting cylinder balance faults because of the way it's running - IE: loping.

Something odd is going on here, but I have an idea or two of the top of my head.

Unplug the optical sensor and see how it runs.

Unplug the coolant temp switch (the one to the PCM, not the gauge) and see how it runs.

Let me read a few things and get back to you.....have to read up on the timing advance stepper motor specifically.

i have before but will again.

One other thing, please stop forcing it to run with the throttle in that condition. It's not doing anything any good...


i just got really frustrated, i normally have alot more patience but it was running out.

Ill try unplugging the optical sensor and then the coolant temp to the pcm.
thanks by the way for helping me figure this out, wife has been on my case about it.

 

im having pretty much the same problem as this guy in my 94 6.5 the only thing is that it will drive except that when it gets to about 2000 rpm it start studering and will start blue smoking. and it idles about 500 idk what it is

 

first off, what have you diagnosed so far?

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okay so i tried unplugging the pcm coolant temp sensor then the opitcal sensor.
when i unplugged the coolant sensor it ran alot better, not perfect but tons better than it was. i was reading a temp of -33f and 16* of timing on laptop. i unplugged the optical sensor next and it ran worse. so what does it mean when i unplugged the temp sensor and it ran better?

 

i messed with the truck a bit yesterday and i noticed something. first i removed and tested all wires in the injection pump harness, everything is good, no shorts or broken wires. next i started it cold, about 70 degrees outside and it ran great, no balance faults or anything. i was keeping an eye on the temps as it warmed up. fuel temp around 100 an coolant temp around 140 it started acting up again. it seems to be a heat related problem. also, i took the top cap off the pump and noticed that the optical sensor had a hole in the bottom of it and there was a little black piece of plastic rattling around inside and the sensor was full of fuel. i assume that its not suppost to be that way. Any thoughts?