I wouldn't buy a Jasper engine and I am only 60 miles from them in Jasper IN. Rebuilding it is a option if you don't have a cracked main web. The best option is a optimizer. There a little pricey but will eliminate any of the problems the factory 6.5's had. I am getting ready to install one in a 97 suburban for a friend and I think he is giving $6500 for the complete engine I will have to check make sure thats right. A Duramax would be a big under taking.

The thing is its a big suv with a diesel which is next to impossible to find. If the body and rest of the running gear is good you have to decide if the truck is worth it to you.

 

the truck was hard to find, I wanted a diesel, I needed a SUV, and I wanted a 4x4 for fun. I lucked out and found one that had it all, and the price was low enough that I could drop in $3k and still be in the price ballpark for ones in "mint" condition. Instead of someone lying to me about the condition and paying a lot more, I knew I had an allowance to work with to fix the condition. I like the body style, I like the fuel mileage, and I want to go biodiesel so a motor that's on the brink is a good idea so I can work out the kinks before I drop in a nice shiny new motor.
As far as a drop in, Jasper seems out, Optimizer seems pricy but awesome. How do I go about pricing one out?

 

Optimizer is the way to go.

Last summer I paid 7100 for one from the dealership. I was stuck and had no choice.

If you buy a 6.5 from gm parts, you get a genuine GEP optimizer. Gm sources their replacements from GEP/AMG.

You can shop around and get them a bit cheaper, but by purchasing one through gm parts, you get a 3 year warranty on the engine (if you have oil change receipts that is).

There's only one 6.5 better and that's. The GEP optimizer with a P400 casting designation. Waaaay overkill for a family hauler though.

Save your pennies and get an optimizer. Best deal going.

The 6.5 is not a good engine to get from any rebuilder. For example; the cranks are induction heat treated and can only be turned down so much. Anything that you can even feel with your fingernail as you drag it across a journal is pretty much too deep. Most shops just turn the crank down till it's smooth again. Can't do that on a 6.5 crank and almost no one knows it. There are lots of other little "gotchas" with them too.

Just get a new one and forget about all the traditional 6.5 problems. A new optimizer will give you another 400-500,000 miles.

It'll probably outlast the truck...


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Is this correct sir, the optimizer 6500?
Quality GM 6.5L Diesel Engines - OPTIMIZER 6500

As opposed to this, Quality GM 6.5L Diesel Engines - GM 6.5L TURBO COMPLETE DROP IN 1994 TO 1996
which costs less but lacks the beefed up block.

I'm a medic, not a doctor (hence the cost effective fuel saver chevy) So the most cost effective would be nice, and I don't think that optimizer is a drop in any other distributors I should contact?

 

1st one sounds like it. BUt you take your chances with any online seller these days.

Second one is definitely note and optimizer. The optimizer is a completely new, the second one say REMAN right in the description.

The optimizer will "drop in". You simply have to transfer over your injectors, glow plugs, manifolds, turbo, etc.

Pretty standard stuff for changing an engine.....

 

Where are some places you would recommend to get a motor?

 

Your local gm parts counter will get you a genuine new optimizer 6500 with a three year warranty.

But it won't come cheap. 6500-7500 is a fair bet.

I think the name of the company that can get you an optimizer direct from GEP is ww williams or something close to that. They're a defense contractor iirc. Expect 5-6 grand plus shipping. I think it's either 1 year or no warranty with them (defense contractor, remember?)

These old beasts aren't cheap when you get into engine replacement.....unless you want to take your chances online or with a rebuilt.

Personally, I wouldn't risk an online purchase unless I knew for sure what I was getting. Even then you can get burned; a lot of the Chinese repops are getting wise and have started casting the navistar "diamonds" on their parts to make them look more like an optimizer. Talk about sneaky!

I personally wouldn't trust a rebuilt either unless I did it myself or I watched the guy do it. There's just way too many "gotchas" on these engines like cranks that can be polished but not ground, select fit pistons for different clearances on the rear cylinders, cracks galore, etc.

This really is one of those "you get what you pay for" scenarios.

Your dime, your call....


*edit*

Yup, WW Williams. google will turn them up. I think you have to call or email thier "defense systems" branch or something like that....



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I agree I would watch any online purchases and make %110 sure you are getting a genuine optimizer block and not a chines knock off. I wouldn't trust any rebuild I didn't know or know the person rebuilding it. It's like great white said it's a gotcha engine. I have and know how to use precision measuring tools to make sure everything fits right and know problem areas to look for in the 6.2/6.5. I have rebuilt a few 6.5's and never had any problems with them but I would not trust anything mass re-builders or I rebuilt it people put out.

The nice thing is if you spend the money to put a true optimizer in it you will have a engine that will out last the truck.

 

If you want to be cheap, lok for a running low milage 6.5. I've seen several lately. By low milage, I mean under 150,000 miles.

I would not buy a used engine unless I could here it run. People in general do not button engines up enough when they pull them and sit them on the floor. All orfices should be capped.

Had a friend that had mice crawl up his open headers and **** inside his head. Did quite a bit of damage to that fresh 402. Cost him some good cash to fix it.

Bugs, mud daubers, etc. are another concern.

You can start with a perfectly good engine and end up with a really heavy boat anchor.

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Bio-diesel

If you mean biodiesel all is good. If you mean waste vegtible oil, make sure it is processed into bio-diesel.

My son bought a truck from a guy running WVO. He was filtering the heck out of it but did not process it.

Everybody that I have seen try to run unprocessed oil has a problems sooner or later.

 

I think I'm gonna do the used motor for now, I'm getting a bunch of codes and oil loss now. It still runs good but fuel mileage is suffering and I'm sure it won't last the year, not to mention the mess it's making. I've found some places offering a 3 year warranty on a complete used motor for $2,900. Then I can save up the OT checks for the Optimizer in a year or 2.

I mean actual biodiesel, the idea of running straight WVO is scary with lots of potenial for water in the system. I considered WMO too, but just reading on that now.