1990 fuel filter housing rebuild
 

Okay i finally got mad today, I been meaning to get around to a leak on the fuel filter housing...from the heater which is sucking air into the fuel system.

I looked high and low on the internet could not find a FAQ on how to do this.

Here goes, This is for the Stanadyne Model 80 fuel filter housing head.

1,Remove the electrical connections, and fuel lines on the fuel filter head on the engine.

2,Remove the assembly from the engine and and drain diesel fuel, and remove filter from filter head.

3, Make a clean work space so you can set things up.

4, Ok first order of the day remove the heater, get a pair of pliers and firmly grip the top portion of the heater heat and slowly pull up ward.... it will pull straight out you will see an 'O ring' around the head base. ( note there are 2 styles of heater one that has a solid core and one that has more of and heater element look to it.) lots on scale and debris in here bad blockage.

5, filter change sensor, note in 1990 this was deleted.
ok there's a metal tang around this that helps to hold it in place...use a very small screw drive and gently pry it tang very slowly working in a clock wise fashion until it comes out...the idea is not to score the base bore, you will then see an 'O ring' behind it in the filter base, go ahead and remove it.

6,Water in fuel sensor, perhaps the easiest one, just undo to small bolts on back. remove sensor.

7,Remove the air bleed valve and the water drain valve.

8, Remove the filter head bracket and electrical connector bracket, 4 x 10mm bolts

9, Okay fully stripped down, time for a chem dip bath for a few hours.

10, Pull out and blast it clean with carb cleaner to remove any leftover dirt or grime. Clean out the drain hole, air bleed hole, and inlet, and outlet holes. Use shop air to dry and blast any left over scaling or dirt out.

Pay special attention to the heater hole on top of the fuel filter head lots of scale in here and dirt.

11, Assembly is the reverse of removal, install new 'O-ring' seals the new ones are made out of vitron..

Don't use the old 'O-rings' they will leak...... ultra low sulfur diesel eats away at the older type of O-Ring seal really badly.

As soon as i can figure out how to load the pictures I get them up here.:c:

Pictures of fuel head
 

some pictures of fuel filter head disassemble.

more pictures
 

more pictures,

O Ring Replacments
 

:humm:

For fuel heater use size, 14mm ID, or 9/16 ID


For filter change sensor use size, 28mm ID

Those units are junk. expect it to start leaking again soon. Get a Racor or a FFM from a 93+ 6.5TD

Fuel Filters
 

Thanks for the positive comment, like anything that's old, it needs a rebuild and to be serviced.

Does not matter if its a Gas engine or Diesel engine. Been working on cars trucks for 20 years now


It may not be the best unit in town but it gets the job done.

This is a video i found on you tube, about the fuel sensor switch replacements.

follow the link:

I am looking at doing the exact same thing with my fuel filter housing. After having troubles with my engine dying after running for 10-15 seconds in the mornings.

I don't see a O ring on the fuel heater.

Where did you get the new O rings?

I've heard of people performing their own deletes by tapping the hole and putting a bolt in it. What do you think?

The o ring for the heater is around the base of the heater when you pull it out of the fuel manager.

The o-rings can be purchased at the dealer or any diesel shop...there made out of vi-tron...good with the ultra low sulfur fuel. Ive heard of people deleting the sensor by tapping and putting a short bolt in there...but a new 28mm id, o-ring should stop it leaking.

Heres another video from YouTube

This is a fuel filter housing strip down...........................Hope this helps someone.


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Heres another on changing the fuel filter on the truck, not the easiest but!



I really hope this helps someone, could not find any info on the internet when i got mine in 2011:c: