Not trying to revive an old thread, just wanted to say thanks for posting this. Exactly what I was looking for, noticed my leak earlier today. Now just have to find new o-rings and fix it!

Heres another video, on how to repair the fuel leaks
 

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I hope to build up a knowledge base for these 'Stanadyne 80' housings, to help us 6.2l owners. if you have hints and tips please add to this thread.:c:

OKAY HERE ARE THE GM AND STANADYNE PART NUMBERS TO SERVICE THESE UNITS:


14071933 ASSEMBLY C-K TRUCK MODEL 80 PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION GM PART NUMBER: STANADYNE NUMBER

Bracket, Wiring Harness 15593335 24838
Clip, Vacuum Switch Retainer 15593306 24835
Seal, “ 0” Ring (Vacuum Switch) 15596608 24275
Switch, Vacuum 15593308 24831
Seal, Drain Plug 15596611 24266
Seal, “0” Ring (Fuel Heater) 15596600 15349
Plug, Vent 15596612 24267
Screw, Thd Forming V2-20 15596607 24437
Bracket, Mtg. 15593336 34522
Clamp, Filter 15596613 24265
Heater Assembly, Fuel 15593337 24870
Screw, Thd Forming 15596603 24322
Sensor, Water 15596610 24269
Base Assembly 15593338 24521
* Element, Filter 14075347 24262


14071064 ASSEMBLY G-P TRUCK MODEL 80 PARTS LIST

DESCRIPTION GM PART NUMBER STANADYNE NUMBER

Bumper, Vacuum Switch 15593305 27129
Clip, Vacuum Switch Retainer 15593306 24835
Seal, “ 0” Ring Vacuum Switch 15593307 24834
Switch, Vacuum 15593308 24831
Screw Thd Forming (V*-20) 15596607 24437
Clamp, Filter 15596613 24265
Bracket, Filter Mtg. 15593309 24527
Seal, Drain Plug 15596611 24266
Plug, Vent 15596612 24267
Seal, “0” Ring 15596600 15349
Heater Assembly, Fuel 15596609 24270
Screw, Thd Forming (8-32) 15596603 24322
Sensor, Water 15593310 27108
* Element, Filter 14075347 24262

:pca1:

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The long number is the GM one, the shorter number is the Stanadyne number.

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My mechanic just gave me the bad news.. $250 for a new base. Wonder how he, and later I, found a new one from our local chevy dealer? I should have asked if it was a genuine Stanadyne Model 80.

So is it worth saving $250 rebuilding it? How long did it take?

Or should I abandon it and look at a Racor or a FFM like acesneights1 suggested? Saying I don't like the back of intake location is a understatement.:mad3:

They put them at the back of the intake to make use of residual heat in winter to help prevent fuel gelling.

Makes sense.. Since I just blew my back out again.. Looks like I'm shelling out 500 to fix a fuel leak.:ouch:

rebuild time
 

Mine took 2 hours to clean and rebuild.

common leak problem is the o rings( Heater core + filter change sensor). $4-5 dollars will get you up and running again.

Usually the fuel line from the filter to the IP leaks all the time, so if you dont see any leaks on the fuel housing, remove the intake manifold and 99 times out of a 100 it the problem not the standayne 80 housing. its a cheap $5 dollar 5/16 rubber fuel line fix.

Good look.:c:

My mechanic rebuilt my base when he learned the Stanadyne Model 80 wasn't available after dealer first said they were.

$133 out the door:jump:

good job
 

Its a easy fix if your back isn't out. There really easy units to fix and repair, most people talk trash about them,,, but its like i say if you don't like a transmission or gas or diesel engine just move on..... they all have there strengths and weakness.

Glad it didn't cost you an arm and a leg. When i had to do mine years ago there was no info anywhere, i hope this thread will help many more of us 6.2 owners.

Glad i could help you out.:c: